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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:41 am 
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OK... so I am confused? Why plug the back ends of the tubes? They are sealed at the front end and only if the bow is down would they take in any water. Then they are nearly horizontal, so the amount of water that can possibly be retained is very small.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 12:06 pm 
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Hi matt, I'm glad you posted this question! Believe me, the last thing I want to do is create issues where none exist. Awhile back I read the post "911- Pro Angler Goes Down" and followed that post to "another link" with which I'm guessing you are familiar (continuous bickering between forum members). What I gathered from that information (and have read elsewhere) is that when submerged, the PA tends to go nose down. I noted the fact that the fellow in distress was unable to gain any ground while attempting to pump out his PA. That being the case, I thought I'd take some preventative measures to prevent any such issue. By adding pipe insulation inside the rod tubes, I'm hoping to accomplish two things:
1)Limit the amount of water that can enter the rod tubes and still allow use of the tubes without having to plug them.
a)Completely plugging the tubes not being used with foam balls
2)Add buoyancy to the front end in case of submergence.

I'm preparing for an extended solo trip (3 weeks) along the north shore of Lake Superior and am doing everything I can to limit the possibility of danger. I'd love your input as to wether or not this is unnecessary! Other posts have described the placement of pool noodles inside the hull storage to increase the buoyancy of the PA. I'm also working on lining the front hatch with neoprene to limit the amount of water entering the hatch in case I capsize. As I indicated, just trying to plan ahead!
Thanks Matt, GR8 Laker


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:56 pm 
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Guys, why go to all this inventive trouble when large scupper plugs (red ones) work just great? They come 3 to a pack and include a nylon cord to tie together. :?:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:03 pm 
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I think plugging the rod holders is not important. If inverted, likely they will hold air, rather than water.

The bigger issue with the guy who flipped was the hatch was open and it took in water there. You can't help but flood the bow if you flip with the hatch open, but there may be ways to better seal and latch the hatch. Some here in the forums have added foam to the inside of the lid, we are working on a secondary seal lip. I believe you can further prevent the hull from flooding (with the hatch compromised) by blocking the rail areas next to the front "fire wall" area at the front of the foot well. When the hull is inverted... these become gutters. Block the gutters with foam somehow and the only water in is confined to the bow area. Problem is how to do it... we have not come up with a way in production that makes sense.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:30 pm 
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That's great news Matt, I appreciate your quick response. I'll focus my attention more on the front hatch liner (for ice chest/cooler insulation purposes) and "gutter" seal.

GR8 Laker


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:39 pm 
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Hey Guys, don't know where my last post disappeared to but here goes again.
Red large scupper plugs work great to plug rod holders. They keep water out of unused holders if you flip. Also, they keep bugs and other critters out when stored. They can be had here:
http://kayakfishinggear.com/oceankayaks ... pairs.aspx

As far as better seal on hatches, I used 3/8" closed cell foam on the lids, seals well and keeps it more efficient if used as an ice chest, then replaced the stock 3/4" trim-seal with 1 1/2" trim-seal.
That can be found here:
http://mooreindhardware.thomasnet.com/i ... c?&seo=110.

You have to call them to order (800 543-1677) they don't have online purchasing available yet. At least they didn't when I bought mine. The item # is 7100-1/16-C.
Don't let the item in the drawing confuse you. The letter at the end of the item # denotes where the bulb goes. "C" means on the top, not on the side as in the drawing. You'll need 10 feet. It works great and keeps everything dry...as long as hatch is closed...duh! I turned mine turtle on purpose and sat on top of the hull for 15 mins. to test. When I turned it back upright, it was as dry as a bone!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 3:18 pm 
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Thanks for the links Halibut Hunter, thats some quality info! Your other post is still there and I'm likely going to end up with the large (red) scupper plugs as a precautionary measure when I'm offshore cruising Lake Superior. I especially like the second link regarding the seal you used. Did you use anything in particular to bond the new seal in place? Also, once the seal was in place, did you use anything to "fuse" the ends together?
Thanks in advance,
GR8 Laker


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 6:30 pm 
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The trimseal has a channel that grips the lip of the hatch just like the stock stuff. It's a self-locking channel and you have to work at it to get it pushed all the way on properly. No need for any adhesive there. It won't come off without really working at it. I used some good silicone cement and bonded the ends (make sure you use a SHARP pair if snips and get nice clean straight ends). After that dried I went over the seam again, with some of the stuff on my finger(have a rag or 2 on hand), and filled any small voids.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 6:39 pm 
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I'll try and take some pics of the seal and the hatches in the a.m. and get them posted for you tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 12:40 pm 
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Mythman, GR8 Laker, Go here:
viewtopic.php?f=78&t=16360&p=100933#p100933
I've posted pics.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:05 pm 
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I see someone already posted my pics on the red scupper plugs; although the application is costly...it does work flawlessly though. No leaks or any excess water what-so-ever.
I've been in some real rough stuff saltwater wise, and really never had an issue with it.


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