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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:07 am 
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Location: Broward County, FL
Hi all,

At the end of the last season I had someone replace the port/aft corner casting on my H16. He did everything except put in the rivets. The trampoline is back on and tightened up, I just need to put rivets in.

What size rivets do I put in? Where do I put them? (Photos appreciated). How do I put them in? Do I use hot rivets or cold rivets? What is a rivet tool and how do I use it? Where can I buy rivets and rivet tool? (Links appreciated). As you can tell I have never put in a rivet, hot or cold, in my life.

-Paris.
:?:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:12 am 
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p.s. I had one person make the following suggestion:

Quote:
The bolt you're looking at is the bolt that connects the frame (corner casting) to the hull..There is no bolt that is needed to hold the corner casting to the frame rail..Adding of the bolt or rivet is only a "extra" support feature. Most hobies do not have any bolt connecting the corner casting to the rail..The tramp tension is enough to hold the frame in place as on the 14'. If you do want to put it in I would think that a 1/4" x 6" bolt will be more than enough..May need a washer on both sides..Remember to get stainless steel so that it does not rust out.


However, I'm a little scared to not have rivets and trust the trampoline to hold it all together. And I don't think I clearly understand the difference between using a bolt and using rivets, and where to put them, etc. etc. Links to items on westmarine for rivets and rivet tools, and images showing where and how to put them in would be much appreciated.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:20 am 
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Also - MBounds had made these original suggestions:

Quote:
    Re-install the pylon bolts.
    The pylon bolt hole in the new casting will probably not line up exactly with the old hole in the pylon. Use the 1/2" drill to clean it up so the bolt will go through.
    Re-tighten the tramp. Try to level and square the boat - measure diagonally from bow tang to rudder pin and vice versa. Measurements should be equal.
    Using the 3/16" drill, drill the rivet holes for the new casting into the rear crossbar using the casting as a template.
    Insert and pull the rivets.
    Reinstall the tiller crossbar


But I don't know what pylon bolts look like, and I really don't know the difference between pylon bolts and other bolts and rivets.

I guess I'm just looking for some spoon-feeding here, with pictures and links to products, etc. so I don't screw this up and have my Hobie come apart in the water :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:04 am 
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Location: W. Chesterfield, NH & Hope, ME
There's a rivet guide on p. 49 of the parts catalog (download online from Hobie); the corner castings take 6 rivets each to hold them to the cross bars.

The rivets are pop rivets - stainless steel or monel, not aluminum (not strong enough); you need a tool that can do stainless steel rivets. Apparently most of the tools at hardware tools aren't beefy enough to do anything but aluminum very easily. Rather than buying a tool, I'm going to take the front and rear cross bars and castings to a mechanic who can do the job.

Pylon bolts are shown on p. 48. They go thru the large holes in the castings. 6 smaller rivet holes should also be visible in the castings. I know I've seen someone's picture on the forum of the castings showing the rivet holes. There's also a video from Surf City Catamarans (I believe) showing how to drill out old rivets and reinstall new ones.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:37 am 
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Bruce - thanks for this. Any idea of part numbers for equivalent bolts and rivets from westmarine? And an acceptable rivet tool from westmarine?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:54 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
You can use a basic hardware store hand rivet tool (~$20) to pop stainless steel rivets, but it takes a lot of hand strength. If you're only doing a couple rivets, it's probably not worth the expense of a high-power rivet gun. I've actually modified one of those tools by welding some bar to the handles to act as extensions for more leverage during the pull. It works OK. You also have to be real careful with some of these tools as the rivet mandrel can shoot out of the back of the tool when the rivet pops. Wear safety glasses.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:30 am 
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Sorry, Paris, I don't know the parts numbers for West Marine.

The rivets I received from Hobie are designated 6-8 pn hd, part # 80111231 (pan head?); they measure 3/16 x 5/8" + as measured from under the head to the end of the shaft.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:01 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
This is a pylon bolt:
Image

It's what holds the trampoline frame on to the hulls via the pylons (the aluminum post that sticks up out of the hulls). They're pretty big - 1/2" diam by about 5" long.

The rivets used in constructing Hobie Cats are "blind" or "pop" rivets. They are set cold.

This link will show you what they look like and how they are set: http://school.mech.uwa.edu.au/~nscott/How_to_do_stuff/hand_tools/

The ones used on the corner castings are 3/16" diameter, 1/2" long, stainless steel or Monel. You can buy them one at a time from a Hobie Dealer or order them online (larger quantities) from any number of places. They are expensive in small quantities.

The proper type are not sold at home improvement stores (Lowe's, Home Depot). DO NOT be tempted to use aluminum rivets. They aren't strong enough.

Rivet tools - 3/16" stainless pop rivets are hard to pull/pop. While the rivet tools sold at Home D and Lowe's will work, your hands will wish you had something better.
This is similar to what I bought nearly 30 years ago:
Image
It will pull 1/4" stainless rivets all day long and you won't even raise a sweat. It was expensive and worth it.
Another alternative tool:
Image
This one is sold by Annapolis Performance Sailing and costs about $220.

If all you ever plan to use the tool for is the 6 rivets in the corner casting, then buy the heaviest duty tool you can at a local hardware store, pull the rivets (wear gloves to minimize the pain) and throw it away when you're done (the stainless rivets will ruin it).


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 11:44 am 
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Thanks guys - I feel I am almost ready to head off to Shelter Island and pop some rivets. But could you possibly post images showing WHERE in the corner casting I put the pylon bolt, and WHERE I put the rivets.

Also - MBounds - where did you get that tool that looks like an accordion?

Thanks again,

Paris.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 11:57 am 
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OK, so if I don't want to bust my hands, I should have a compressor and a pressure-driven tool, yes?
Is this what I'm looking for:
Portable Compressor http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-FP2028-Compressor-Accessory/dp/B000BOCBAM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1271011624&sr=1-2
Air Pop Rivet Gunhttp://www.amazon.com/Air-Pop-Rivet-Gun/dp/B001Z0R9BW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1271012177&sr=1-4
Do I need any other parts or tools for this job?

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1984 Hobie 16, Olympic Edition (kept in NY)
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 12:13 pm 
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OK I found someone in the US who sells that tool:
http://www.langtoninfo.com/showitem.aspx?isbn=5010559137015

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