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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 3:15 pm 
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Location: Parry Sound, Canada
Hello,
A relative has ordered me a Hobie 14 Bob for $133.00, I am not sure if it is the mini-bob or a bigger one, I am sure they told the dealer I have an H14 and they ordered the proper bob accordingly.

I came across a text-instruction on how to install the bob on a non-composite tip mast but am having trouble figuring it out. Do I drill directly into the mast or just drill into the bracket that holds the pully/sheave above the mast? I dont want to compromise the "floatability" of the mast by drilling holes into it if I dont have to. I am sure a mast that leaks hinders righting the boat once it has gone over. Any pictures would be greatly appreciated, or any help for that matter.

thanks in advance.
Chris

Quote:
Hobie 14 and Hobie 16 without Comp Tip Mast Head. Tools required are a number 20 drill, a 10-
32 tap and a drill motor. Place the Mast Float and Bracket over the mast head casting such that the
centerline of the float is perpendicular to the center line of the mast. Make a mark on the casting at each
of the 4 holes in the bracket. Remove the bracket and drill and tap the 4 holes. Caution: Avoid drilling
into the sheave if possible. Using the 4 each 10-32 by 5/16" screws and lock washers secure the Mast
Float to the mast head.


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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 3:21 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
You only drill into the mast head casting. These will be shallow holes that do not effect the halyard pulley.

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 3:32 pm 
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Location: Parry Sound, Canada
Sorry, can you please further specify what the mast-head casting is?
thanks for your patience.

Chris


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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 3:45 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
That is what you refered to as the "the bracket that holds the pully/sheave above the mast".

This assumes that your mast has a cast aluminum mast head with the single sheave pulley. That would be non-CompTip. If it is a CompTip mast (Fiberglass) you would have a bent aluminum head and double pulley.

Instructions are in the support area here: http://www.hobiecat.com/support/index-sail.html

Mast Float (Baby Bob) Installation 30115 Wave (pdf 460KB) http://www.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/30115.pdf

Mast Float (Baby Bob) Non-Comptip Installation 30116 H14/16 (pdf 92KB) http://www.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/30116.pdf

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 3:15 pm 
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Location: Parry Sound, Canada
Thank you.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:14 am 
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Location: Parry Sound, Canada
I have a couple questions regarding the tools required for this job. I am not a total noob when it comes to working with tools, but I am stumped here.

I have a non-comp tip mast (old school, all aluminum).

Tools Required:
- Number 20 Drill
- 10-32 tap
- Drill Motor

What is a number 20 drill?
Is a 10-32 tap refering to a bit that you need to create a thread?

Where could I get a 10-32 tap and a "number 20 drill"?

thanks for the help in advance.
Chris


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:38 pm 
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Location: W. Chesterfield, NH & Hope, ME
Cdogg, here's a link to definitions of drill bit sizes: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_sizes

The tap is the tool that cuts the thread into the hole drilled with the #20 bit. You may have to buy a special wrench to hold the tap and turn it into the hole as well. Use cutting oil to avoid chipping the metal as it cuts the thread.

My mast is all alum too. I'm going to start with a gallon jug tied to the head of the sail - have heard the bob adds ~6 lbs to the top of the mast, making it harder to right. It keeps you from going turtle, but may make righting harder.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 12:43 pm 
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Location: Parry Sound, Canada
Thanks for the reply. I found a tap and die set at home depot, comes with a handle, and I think I read WD40 can be used as a lubricant for aluminum so I am all set to go.

I think the baby-bob is only 2 pounds but I can see how this small weight might be amplified when on the end of a 20 foot pole. Can anyone comment on how much harder it is to right your Hobie 14 with a baby-bob installed? I am only 155 pounds so I am a little worried. Last time I righted the boat I was 170 and it took quite a long time for the boat to come up.. :?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 4:05 pm 
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Location: Parry Sound, Canada
Can someone please advise if the screw threads are coarse or fine?

thanks,
I'd like to find out before tapping.

Chris


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 7:49 pm 
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Location: W. Chesterfield, NH & Hope, ME
Chris, the 32 designates the number of threads per inch - I think it's a fine thread. Check this reference with tables showing coarse (UNC) and fine (UNF) sizes.

Another thing I've notices in several articles while sleuthing around is that 10-32 requires a #21 bit - I've seen this in several engineering tables. Maybe tapping aluminum is different??

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 3:48 pm 
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Location: Lake Norman NC
Why does anyone over 100 lbs need a mast float I have turned over a 14 many many many times and righted it with no problems A good captain should be able to righr a 14 with no problem Get a good righting system make sure the mast is sealed (use the swimming pool to check for leaks) get the boat out and practice turning over and righting


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:17 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
blord5 wrote:
Chris, the 32 designates the number of threads per inch - I think it's a fine thread. Check this reference with tables showing coarse (UNC) and fine (UNF) sizes.

Another thing I've notices in several articles while sleuthing around is that 10-32 requires a #21 bit - I've seen this in several engineering tables. Maybe tapping aluminum is different??

A #20 bit diameter is 0.161"; a #21 is 0.159"

0.002" is nothing in a soft metal like aluminum. Unless you're drilling with a press and clamping down the masthead casting, the bit will wander more than that.

You can drill the hole with a more common 5/32" bit (0.15625"). The tap will take care of the rest. Just go slow, use WD40 as a lubricant and go 1/2 turn forward, 1/4 turn back to break the shaving off. Flush the hole and tap with WD40 when you're done to get rid of the shavings.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:53 am 
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Location: Parry Sound, Canada
Thanks MBounds for clarification about using a 5/32" bit. I knew I wouldnt be able to bore a perfectly straight hole without any wobble anyways.

I figure if the hole is 3/1000" to tight, the tap shouldn't have any big problems seeing as the mast head is aluminum (I think).

Thanks for the help,
I will report back in a couple weeks to let everyone know how it went.


Gary Eudy: I have turtled my boat 3 times out of 3 times capsizing it. The mast floats - I have tested it on its own in the lake. Also, the lake I sail is for the most part less than 20 feet deep, meaning every time I have turtled, its got jammed on the lake bed in mud. The boat usually turtles about less than a minute or 2 after capsizing. As well, I have been using a 2 litre pop bottle for some extra buoyancy, and even that isnt enough to prevent turtling. They wouldnt make a baby bob if H14/H16's didn't turtle.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:51 am 
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Location: Clinton, Mississippi
cdogg: For what it's worth, my experience is very similar to yours. My daughter's H-14T will turtle in a heartbeat (yes, the mast is sealed), and our local reservoir is relatively shallow. If someone gave me a Bob, I'd install it, but for now we're using very stylish OJ jugs. I also disagree with gary in that considerably more than 100 lbs. is required to right from a normal capsize position without a righting aid or perhaps some really heavy wind.

Jerome Vaughan
Clinton, Mississippi


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 7:19 pm 
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Jerome... my 14T here in Ocean Springs.... I'm 160 pounds and I have an all alu mast and the mini-bob....

If I'm in my wetsuit (like winter) and a blow I can right the boat....

in summer, if with my kid (50lbs) he's got to climb up on me for a bear hug, that extra 50lbs up on my chest will bring the boat over....

The boat is an '85, water tight hulls (don't know about the mast, but do have the float)... so I'd say 170 is needed even in a blow...

Cheers, Rob.


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