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 Post subject: daggerboard stowage idea
PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 6:43 pm 
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Ok - I'm going to subject you to another idea, because this one actually seems to be working. I wanted a place to put the daggerboard when launching or beaching. I wanted it out of the cockpit (I need all the room I can get) and puttng it in the 8in. hatch was a nonstarter as it is rather crowded down there (throw bag, pump, emergency paddle, lunch...).

So here it is:

Image

I installed a couple of rivet nuts in the rear aka, screwed in some eyelet posts, and attached a bungie loop. I was planning on rivetting a strap to the diagonal brace (I like the tramps to be over the brace, so no eyelet posts there), but I stumbled on the idea of using the daggerboard's built-in bungie to hold that end. Actually, I'm embarassed to have to admit that the built-in bungie part carries most of the load, and I probably could have done something simpler on the rear aka. Oh well, hindsight is 20-20.

The eyelet posts are carefully placed so as not to interfere with the tramp straps. In retrospect I wish I had placed them a bit closer together, to reduce lateral "play," but that's a trivial matter. The only real downside I can see is that the daggerboard would get in the way of a "Slaughter-style-continuous-sheet-furling-line" block if it were attached where the brace is bolted to the aka, as Slaughter does it:

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=21927&p=97998&hilit=cockpit#p97998

I wanted to try that next. To get 'round that problem I'm going to see if I can't make use of a Davis "Quick Fist" pole mount that failed to solve the problem I bought it for, but should work as a light-duty aka mount:

Image

see http://www.davisnet.com/marine/products/marine_product.asp?pnum=00540


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 7:03 pm 
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Nice idea. I'd also add a small wire-tie or small piece of line on one end of the bungee to stop it from going flying if one end comes off an eyelet.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 7:23 pm 
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Good idea. Though I may well just convert it to a screwed-on strap (that's where rivet nuts beat a blind rivet all hollow - easy to change things out). There really is very little load on the yellow bungie loop. And it seemed such a good idea, too. Sigh.

And - oh yeah -- forgot to add the disclaimer: "daggerboard leash not shown."


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:45 am 
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Oh - BTW - I know it LOOKS flimsy, but it's actually rather difficult to get the yellow bungie off the eyelets. For one it's VERY taut (it has to be - it's a very inefficient clamp) and for another, it sits dead on top of the only useful pivot point in the area, so prying with the daggerboard is largely useless. And I picked the bungie diameter carefully, too, with this in mind.

That said, the little bit of downward pressure it applies to the daggerboard is just enough to keep it from rattling around, and probably not really necessary, since the built-in-bungie rig up front holds it quite firmly. A case of the accidental invention outshining the intentional invention.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 4:57 am 
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Location: Lake Macquarie NSW AUSTRALIA
All looks nice and neat pablo. I like the Quick Fist idea. How quick and secure are they. Would they be suitable to modify to use as a camera mount ?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 4:35 pm 
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Short answer: "Yes - if it doesn't weigh a ton."

Long answer has some caveats:

It's made out of a fairly rigid synthetic rubber. I'm pretty sure it's synthetic because it has a non-rubbery characteristic - it's a bit slippery. So, while it is held firmly place the way it's set up in the picture (i.e. won't fall off), a firm push will rotate it 90 degrees without too much effort. Vibration MAY do the same over time, if it has some weight on the top. This works out well in my case - left the way it is, it interferes with aka brace stowage. Rotating it on the aka fixes this, so it can be left in place.

The way to fix slippage is obvious - tighten the strap by engaging the next notch up. This is easier said than done, however. The strap really doesn't like to stretch. And did I mention it was slippery? But it's do-able, though a minor cuss word may slip out. Taking it off is no problem, so moving it about the boat should be a breeze. If your camera doesn't weigh much, all this worry may be for naught. As pictured it can be mounted or demounted in a second. If tighter is called for, then it's a second and a grunt. If you plan on moving it around alot while on the water, I'd suggest a leash.

Screwing through the rubber base might be problematic, as tightening the screw just compresses the rubber, and it's hard to know when it's "tight enough" (I lost a nut from my AI trailer because of this effect - but that's another story). So you might want to support the screw with a bushing or something.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 7:48 pm 
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Location: Port Macquarie, Australia
Slaughter, if you're looking at mounting a camera to an aka, you might want to consider a RAM mount, eg http://macleanoutdoors.net.au/index.php ... strap.html.

When I get my TI, I plan to have a few ball mounts secured in different positions on the yak, so that I can move the camera around.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 11:29 pm 
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I've made up a camera mount using a Stauff bracket which attaches via 2 socket head cap screws. It's a pretty good setup but moving it along the aka requires loosening the set screws, moving, then re tightening. I thought about the RAM Max but even it requires a screwdriver. I'm thinking that Pablo's may be easier to move and saves fart-arse'n around with tools.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 6:59 pm 
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The way I see it, at $12 a pair, it's worth a shot.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 8:26 pm 
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captain-max wrote:
Slaughter, if you're looking at mounting a camera to an aka, you might want to consider a RAM mount, eg http://macleanoutdoors.net.au/index.php ... strap.html.

When I get my TI, I plan to have a few ball mounts secured in different positions on the yak, so that I can move the camera around.


That's what your passenger is for!! (and fetching you rum & cokes, etc)

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