Just an update. No
, I hope!
Going to put the fourth block back on. The one that the jib sheet runs through, as per the instructions. This is the block shown as "2" in the self-tacker instructions.
This means the jib will unfurl with the jib sheet now -- instead of the jib being unfurled with the line to the crossbar cam cleat, as in the first picture. (In the pic, the line runs from the "3" block (at the furler) to the cam cleat.
The downside is this tidbit comes into play from the instructions:
To furl the jib you will need to untie the knot on the traveler car for the jib and tie the sheet off to the jib clew block. Otherwise the jib will not furl completely.
Yes, the jib won't furl completely. But I tied a small bowline in the line just before the traveler car. Then made a soft shackle (like this
) and ran its loop through the carbo block to lock the bowline to the car. This allows the line to be disconnected easily and the extra slack allows the jib to furl completely.
Plus the bowline jams and stops in the clew block when untied, so the line doesn't run out and leave an unthreaded tangle of rope. Plus it makes it easier to retie to the carbo block if unfurl again.
(The jib sheet doesn't seem to be an issue, so far, so I am not tying it off to the jib clew block.)
The only bummer is having to crawl up the tramp while out on the water and release the line so the jib will completely unfurl and not flap...
Using the jib sheet to unfurl allows more control over jib shape and this was the reason for doing all this.
It's tedious... but maybe only to explain, and hopefully much easier to rig and un-rig in the long run.
Did you have any luck?