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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:27 pm 
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Location: Maui, Hawaii
Controlling the TI's Reefing line from the rear seat is not easy, as the angle of the reef line off the spool varies and most of the time requires it to be pulled lower than the rear aka xbar to reliably cleat it, so no easy solo control from the rear seat.

Here's the reef line pulled tight to the top of the rear aka xbar, and it won't cleat:
Image

Buy adding a Harken Wedge (Hobie #H297 $4.05) under the reefing cleat, it raises and angles the cleat for a better angle to cleat. Here's the cleat:
Image

... and after the cleat is added, much better:
Image
Image

I still need to test it on the water, but it looks like it will work well.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:27 am 
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Location: Kailua 96734
Bob, I have similar issues with my AI reefing cleat not engaging and this may be a good fix.

It's very difficult to get mine to lock unless I pull down hard at an angle, (no further back than the pedals). I have cleaned, lubed and checked the cleat and it appears normal, but locking the line from a normal seated position is still problematic. The main sheet works perfectly from the seat.

Besides adding the extra height, I was wondering if a new reefing line (thicker) would help the cleat grip and engage at more horizontal angles. My line looks just like yours, but it is getting a bit worn.

Did you experience anything like this with your AI fleet?

Do you have any recommendations for the proper size and type of replacement line?

Mahalos

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:50 am 
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Nice work Bob - just ordered mine! Here's an online source:

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|295771|311531&id=172813

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current boats:
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 11:02 am 
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NOHUHU wrote:
Did you experience anything like this with your AI fleet?

Do you have any recommendations for the proper size and type of replacement line?

Mahalos
I have replaced all the reefing lines once, but with the same line. Before we tied the reefing line to the sheetline, it use to get caught in the Mirage drive or between the drive and drive well or even under the hull through the drive hole when landing. This caused it to be cut and frayed. No problem since tying them together. I think the current size and type of line is fine for the AI & TI.

The reefing line on the AI is also harder to reef (as you stated) than the sheetline, because of the same line angle issues. But because we can pull it lower in the AI (nothing but the drive pedals in the way), it's not as much of a problem.

I'm assuming your reefing line cleat has a fairlead in front to center the line (The first year AI's didn't). If not, that will fix most of your problem (Hobie #H284 $5.50). The early ones were wire, the later ones heavy plastic. If the fairlead is in place then adding the wedge should help.

I should mention, the wedge comes as a set of 2 large (which I used 1) and 2 small (which I have no idea what for, except maybe a smaller cleat?)

Lastly, since I re-rigged the TI's sheetline to the 3 to 1, the rear (my choice) isn't used, so I removed the top of it so it's an open cleat, and I can use it to hold either line (or both of I place the smaller reefing line below the cleated sheet line). Handy.

The Wire fairlead (#H284):
Image

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:00 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
I also have the plastic guide.

It probably has more to do with the reefing line coming in horizontally vs the sheet coming in at an angle already.

Hobie should just adopt your modification. It makes more sense.

BTW, I tie my 2 lines together, like you, but am getting pretty frustrated with the lines crossing all the time, especially since I like to hike on the tramps. If you're not always looking, it's real EZ to unfurl by mistake -rather than unsheeting. Much different results!

Adding 4' or so of rope between them helps w/ separation, but I am thinking that a neat way to secure the furling line would be better for freedom of movement. Anyone have ideas?

Thanks for your TI post. It's gonna help my AI too.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 4:50 pm 
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Looks like a great solution Bob! 8)
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 5:13 pm 
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Also, you may also need slightly longer screws. Unlike the longer AI screws, the TI screws are just long enough to catch (probably because of the internal aka mounting)

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 6:38 pm 
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great advise :!:
My TI os on order and will be here September; I have already ordered the parts for the mod. :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:47 pm 
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Reconlon,

Great advice! When unfurling from the rear seat, I have to reach and lean forward out of my comfortable seating postion to get the cleat to lock. Kind of a hassle especially when a fish is on and you have to juggle mulitple things - in a hurry. I order two sets through West Marine's ship to store option.

Thanks again,

c2y


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:34 pm 
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c2y,

If you needed them right away, I got mine from Kelly and he had more in stock. $4 for 2 sets, 4 pcs total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:06 pm 
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Thank you!!!! The TI that I just got as back at the dealer to fix an issue with the rudder, so I am having them add the Harken Wedge at the same time. My wife is making me drive from the back seat due to the fact that she gets slapped around with the lines when the sail is reefed if she is in the back, and I was having trouble cleating the reef line from there! A happy wife makes a happy TI sailor :)

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 3:05 pm 
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You mean she wants YOU to be the back seat driver?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 3:27 pm 
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Quote:
If you needed them right away, I got mine from Kelly and he had more in stock. $4 for 2 sets, 4 pcs total.


Reconlon,

Visited Kelly at Plenty Pupule Kayaks and picked up a set. He had one left.

Installed it but ran into an issue with my cleat working in reverse. I probably installed the cams backwards. I also had to use longer screws which did not allow my aka lock to work - I'm suspecting. Also, mast doesnt seem to spin freely despite being manually turned and not using the reefing line. Multiple issues but will be troubleshooting today and will update.

Thanks for info.

cliffs2yak


Last edited by cliffs2yak on Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 3:50 pm 
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er, I guess so Chrisj, but I'm thinking it must be some kind of a trick :)

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:25 pm 
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Quote:
Installed it but ran into an issue with my cleat working in reverse. I probably installed the cams backwards. I also had to use longer screws which did not allow my aka lock to work - I'm suspecting. Also, mast doesnt seem to spin freely despite being manually turned and not using the reefing line. Multiple issues but will be troubleshooting today and will update.


Figured it out - I think... Found out that the left screw on the furling cleat was a shy too long preventing the aka from completely engaging with the aka lock. Instead of machining the screw shorter, I decided to move the entire cleat to the left using mounting screws that were already there. Seems to work well from this position but not sure how it'll affect the person seated up front.

Image

Also found out when my mast is furled in tight and there's very little winds, it becomes difficult to unfurl the sail when the only force that available is the sheetline pulling downward towards the pulley. Didn't have a problem when I first sailed the kayak since I had stronger winds that helped to unfurl the sail. When the winds are down, reaching up and pulling on the sail helps with unfurling.


Aloha,

cliffs2yak


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