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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:27 pm 
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
Another issue was that I installed the cleat backwards and screwed it in too tight. Cleat worked fine after making the adjustments.

cliffs2yak


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:51 pm 
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Good to know it's all working now. You had me worried. :)

Have you changed your sheetline to 3:1 from the factory 2:1 on the sheetline? (might help the pull in light winds.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:00 pm 
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Quote:
Have you changed your sheetline to 3:1 from the factory 2:1 on the sheetline? (might help the pull in light winds.


Reconlon,

I still have the factory 2:1 setup on my sheetline. Had to put the boat away for the weekend. Will try next week and update.

Thanks again,

c2y


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:08 am 
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Location: Saint Johns, Florida
Great suggestion to modify the furling block with the wedge. I have my part on order.

I modified my TI for 3:1 setup before I sailed it the first time. It works well but you have a 3rd more line to deal with in the cockpit which is probably worth it in heavy winds but a pain in light air.

Can anyone send me a picture of the way to route the lines for the original 2:1 purchase? I'd like to try it the next time I'm out in light air.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 3:00 am 
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it's here...

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26981&p=111811&hilit=rigging#p111811

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:39 pm 
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Thanx Bob for the suggestion regarding the wedge. The furling line cannot cleat into the cam cleat from the back seat on the Tandem without it.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 4:19 pm 
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I've done this modification. It requires a longer screw. I've used a #8-32 x 1-1/4" round head slotted machine screw - brass/laton. I hope that will hold up. There is a very slight bit more movement when you push on the modified cleat from the front than the unmodified cleat with the same amount of force. I'm wondering what Hobie would say about the amount of torque one should use...

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 4:22 pm 
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Also, I'm wondering if an alternative would be some magical cleat that could be locked in the open position. Then you could mount one on the back AKA and one on the front AKA and then just keep one in "locked open" mode and one in "regular" mode to facilitate driving from either seat. Anybody know of a device like that?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 5:55 pm 
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FWIW, I was thinking of fixing an eye fitting next to the existing cleat, just to guide the line through, and then add the extra cam cleat on the rear aka.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 6:15 pm 
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I've been thinking about a second cleat on the rear aka as well, but the second cleat would have to be inside of the existing cleat, which comes a ways into the front seat area and easily bumped by a normal sized person up there.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 8:59 pm 
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Bob, what about running it down the port side? Small pulley mounted port side on the front x-bar, then maybe through a fair-lead or two to keep the line at/below gunwale level, then up to a cam cleat on the port side of the rear x-bar...

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:13 am 
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Kayaking Bob, I'd be really interested to know how you feel the wedge helped with furling from the aft seat?

And, how well do you think it would compare to running the furling line via a pulley and a dedicated cleat like Tim did in his video "TI versus AI"?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:35 am 
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The wedge did help, but from way in the back seat, it's still hard to get the angle right for quick and easy use. And the reefing line does come into the front cockpit area too much and is easily bumped by movement in the front seat area. If knocked loose when the sail is reefed during high winds or gusts, the results could be.... interesting!?!? :shock:

I did see the video with the pulley and am considering trying this myself. I think the pulley needs a solid base under it to take the load, so something to fill in the curve on the aka xbar is needed to add strength.

I like the TI, but so far the AI is still my preferred mode of travel when conditions turn marginal (my sports car). With that said, My friend Ray (with his friend Martha) handled my TI, at least as well as I handled my AI, when conditions deteriorated into stuff that most sailors on this forum have never experienced (one of the top 5 worse conditions I've sailed in!).

I'm looking to use my TI more as the season turns and the whales return.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 8:24 am 
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reconlon wrote:
The wedge did help, but from way in the back seat, it's still hard to get the angle right for quick and easy use. And the reefing line does come into the front cockpit area too much and is easily bumped by movement in the front seat area. If knocked loose when the sail is reefed during high winds or gusts, the results could be.... interesting!?!? :shock:

Hmmm... kinda thought that might be the case. Thanks for the feedback.

I've decided to leave the port side free for the jib controls (yes, I believe Hobie engineers are still working on this option).

There is actually room to mount a fairlead outboard of the mainsheet cleat on the forward x-bar, if mounted on the front side of the x-bar instead of on top. If only I can find a suitable fitting! It doesn't need a pulley, as the existing fairlead/cleat arrangement is AOK.

Then I'd lead it aft via 2 more fairleads along (or just below) the gunwhales, to keep it out of harm's way, then up to a cleat on the rear aka.

Anyone know what sort of plastic the Harken fairleads are made of? If I could get a piece, maybe I could fabricate my own fairlead for the x.bar....

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 8:36 am 
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You can buy just the Harken fairleads, even from Hobie, but I think a pulley would be much smoother. I would worry a bunch of fairleads would wear the line quickly and not be quick and smooth in operating. I'm sure we'll come up with something.

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