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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 2:44 pm 
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I was told by a local Hobie dealer that putting an access port in front of the pylons is not a good idea since you reduce rigidity by removing fiberglass.
Is that true?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 3:19 pm 
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spyder wrote:
Hi Reefing....
Your spongy ness on the inside of both hulls, is almost certainly delamination. I am a bit confused as to what stage of refinishing of the hulls you are in, but for sure, fix the delamination before proceeding to pretty up the rest of the boat. There is ample information on the hobie 16 forum on how to repair delamination, but it is basicly just filling in the hollow voids in the sides of the hulls with epoxy. I use the West System products, and has worked wonderfully.
Depending on how much flex you have in the sides of the hulls, you could seriously damage the boat under severe winds and stress, if you dont repair it properly.
Good luck


Thank you for the advice. I had the hulls checked by another hobie enthusiast ( that makes a total of 3 now) and have been reassured that the slight flex is normal and nothing to be concerned about. Thank you for the great advice. I have injected epoxy in the surrounding port area already to stiffen it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 3:25 pm 
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rattle 'n hum wrote:
Reefingbuddha wrote:
I'm also going to use SS bolts with washers instead of the crap screws that were used before.


Nice work on the port. I've installed one before and would advise that SS bolts are overkill. You've got it in such good shape that some sealant and countersunk nylon screws will do the trick. With nylon, it's almost impossible to overtighten. Overtightening on that uneven deck surface will warp the ring such that the cap no longer fits.

Again...nice work!


The nylon screws sound like a good idea. Thanks For the advice!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 3:28 pm 
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ericweller wrote:
I was told by a local Hobie dealer that putting an access port in front of the pylons is not a good idea since you reduce rigidity by removing fiberglass.
Is that true?


I was told the same. As mentioned this is not a hole I cut but rather something I'm attempting to fix. Ideally I would have ground it all down and attempted to re-fiberglass the area and remove the hatch completely.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 2:00 pm 
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Someone had asked me to detail my gelcoat process till now so here it is. This is my first time attempting a product like this so please correct me if I am wrong with any steps I detailed.
- Acetone wipe. From what I have read the best proceed is to use two paper towels. One to apply to solvent and the other two wipe away the contaminates before the solvent dries.
- Sand entire hull down to reveal cracks, previous repairs, damage, removed old gelcoating, etc. For this we used two random orbital sanders with 80 grit sandpaper. Two of those cheap bucket wet/dry vacs were used to keep the dust down and worked great.
- Acetone wipe.
- 3 coats gel coat sprayed with Earlux 5000 HVLP system. A final additional coat is applied with styrene wax added to help the drying process.
- Scotch brite wipe to remove wax from previous application
- Drying sand to remove orange peel and wet sand with 320 to smooth slightly.

Graphic Addition
- Template created with newsprint and design created by my talented little sister.
- Get a roll of 20'x25" 5 mil acetate film and trace design to acetate film.
- Apply re-positionable spray adhesive, wait 1 minute, apply entire acetate film to hull.
- Cut out stencil with a razor blade.
- Tape of rest of hull and spray.

Final clear coat (not yet completed, just a plan)
- Scotch brite wipe to remove wax from previous application
- Acetone wipe.
- Wet sand 320 grit to rough up the surface just a bit.
- Acetone wipe.
- Use clear coat gelcoat to spray 5 coats
- Coats 6 and 7 will have a duratec clear hi gloss additive added to aid in the final finishing.
- And final wet sanding at 400 and final polishing.


And some update pictures of the stencil application
Image
Image
Image
Image


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 2:02 pm 
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I think its looking pretty good for a BS paint job in my drive way! Still need to clean up the design a bit but pretty damn happy. There will be a tahitian design inspired sting ray on the other hull in white.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 8:10 pm 
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Location: Shreveport, LA
Looks really cool. I like it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 12:05 pm 
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Thanks millipede.

Another tip: DO NOT use acetone to clean a area with two different color gelcoats. But if you do a little wet sanding cleans up the ensuing mess.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 3:41 pm 
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Ghetto paint booth setup
Image

Stingray Stencil
Image

Stingray Finished and clear coated
Image

To date that makes three coats of pigment, one coat of stencil pigment, 5 coats of clear gel coat, and finally 2 coats of clear gel coat with dura tech additive.

Another tip to anyone doing this is use Styrene for a thinner, not acetone. I was told to use acetone at West Marine when I purchased the gel coat there (way expensive BTW). Apparently styrene chemically bonds with the old gel coat to make a much more significant bond. I tried both ad the difference is significant. Just some basic information for anyone else out there who is looking to go this for the first time.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 4:42 pm 
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Location: Shreveport, LA
Do mine next please.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:54 pm 
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Location: Albuquerque NM
That is, by far, the most awesome graphic I've seen on a Hobie in a long time.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 4:31 am 
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Thanks guys! Pretty happy with how it turned out. Can't wait to finish her next week and take her sailing.

Can anyone comment on how long I should let the gelcoat cure before putting her in the water? I have read anywhere from 1 day to 2 weeks (refuse to wait that long) for a full cure.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 8:18 am 
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Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
I re-gelled my 18 a few weeks ago and had the boat sanded buffed and on the race couse 2 days later. The gel was cured in 12 hrs.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 1:54 pm 
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That thing is sweet!

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 12:25 am 
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Tom Machette wrote:
I re-gelled my 18 a few weeks ago and had the boat sanded buffed and on the race couse 2 days later. The gel was cured in 12 hrs.


Awesome thanks. Finished spraying the hulls yesterday and putting her back together tomorrow.


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