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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 4:31 pm 
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Oh no, that is not good. Cannot imagine the force needed to shear the lower bolt and bend the upper one. Thought the plastic rudder pin was the weakest point in the rudder system.

Even if there were some "user error", the mechanical design of the rudder should have intentionally failed before the bolt.

Thought I had my problem solved, but am now concerned about your experience happening to me.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 11:45 am 
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Location: Täby, Sweden
One wonders if the factory understands what is essential for a boat to work. I have started another thread "Leaks in the hull" to illustrate this.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:52 pm 
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
Checked my TI this past weekend. Both screws were tight when I removed them; but, they were the shorter version. So my rudder mount was only being held on by 3 threads or about 1/4" of screw. It looked like there was some blue Loctite being used on one of the screws (sorry, forgot if it was top or bottom).

Ended picking up a couple of 1/4-20 x 3/4" stainless steel screws from Ace Hardware here in Hilo, Hawaii. Ended up being about .50 cents each. Doesn't seem like you could go longer than a 3/4" long screw since I only could get about 1/2" of the thread screwed into the hull (the remaining 1/4" is in the rudder mount) when I test mounted it.

I reinstalled the rudder mount using the new screws and blue Loctite. I was able to install the rudder mount tightly against the hull and screw heads seem to have easily cleared the rudder pin.

Is this a quality control issue?

Aloha,

c2y


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 2:07 pm 
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Interesting that yours were the shorter 1/2" screws as I'm pretty sure mine are the 3/4" and they were shipped together so should have been manufactured about the same time. I may have to remove a screw and remeasure to be sure they actually were the 3/4".

3 threads to hold it on seems like a manufacturing goof to me.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 3:13 pm 
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Seems like there are two lengths of bolts that were used.

Had the dealer check another TI in inventory. A TI which was in for other warranty issues was checked, and it had the shorter bolt (only about 3 threads showing).

Would recommend checking your bolt length and changing out to the 3/4" length if necessary. Have not yet received confirmation from Hobie that this would void the warranty, but seems like it should be ok, given the fact that others have the 3/4" length pre-installed on their TI's.

With the shorter bolts, any loosening would result in less than 3 threads (per bolt) holding the rudder in place. If the bolts loosened with the 3/4" version, you would still have quite a bit of threads still holding the rudder in place.

I will need to get up to speed with sailing without a rudder, as discussed elsewhere in this forum, and also with the aid of a wooden canoe paddle. The kayak paddles that came with the TI are not very efficient at turning it.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 5:15 pm 
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Yep, best for rudderless steering is a single strait paddle with a 'T' handle. I've carried one, since I broke my first rudderpin.Image

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:56 pm 
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Reconlon, yes, that single straight paddle should be standard equipment.

Whoa, nice looking skirt ! Is that a new version ?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 7:50 pm 
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
Reconlon,

That's interesting that your TI has the longer mounting screws. Here's a pic of my rudder mount with the factory installed shorter screws:

Image

It's looking like there's an installer at the factory using shorter screws and skimping on the Loctite regardless of ship loc/date.

btw, splash skirts are comming along nicely. It looks like it also could be used as a extra platform to strap an extra paddle or rod.

c2y


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:14 pm 
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Honu wrote:
Whoa, nice looking skirt ! Is that a new version ?
Nope, that was a beautiful test version, that looked great, but had it's own extra problems, and wasn't as simple to create or install. BUT IT DID LOOK GOOD! :D

cilffs2yak wrote:
splash skirts are coming along nicely. It looks like it also could be used as a extra platform to strap an extra paddle or rod.
I've thought of sewing in a pocket or two in them. One to slide the blade of a paddle into, close to the bow, and one to hold the rest of the bowline in, near the aka. But their size and placement would need to be custom to each persons taste, and my wife sews them all and would balk at more sewing on them without major financial intensives. :shock: :o :)

(Dee just spent 2 days sewing for me a new 1/2 wide tramp for fishing which looks great, has many placed to tie, bungee, Velcro or clip and hold all my gear plus 100's of pounds of fish, or a person. But she has already drew the line on making them commercially. I'll post pic's shortly when I get it on the water. JesseJ's been sick with strep, so I didn't get out fishing with it yet.)

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:51 pm 
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Darn, the test version really looks nice.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:33 pm 
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This design has worked the best and is much easier to make and mount.Image

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 1:28 pm 
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Bob- when they are ready, can you post picts of those tramps in a new thread?

Also was wondering what technique you use with the 1/2 paddle to sail comfortably for longer periods. Do you brace against the Akas, etc?

With Hobies new rudder design coming out (and off) it's time to revisit this subject and bone up our techniques.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 2:48 pm 
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NOHUHU wrote:
Also was wondering what technique you use with the 1/2 paddle to sail comfortably for longer periods. Do you brace against the Akas, etc?
I try to place the single paddle on the upwind side and let it push against the hull. With the "T" grip, I can make minor adjustments by rotating the shaft, and more major ones by prying against the hull. How well this works, all depends on the wind and waves directions and strengths. Some directions of sailing are just not practical with a paddle for a rudder, and others can be very easy. I do recommend reefing the sail back quite a bit so you have lett to fight against. Still can end up going 4-8mph.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 3:14 pm 
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Yes, a new thread with pics of your splash skirt is best. Could you let us know when it is posted (and also in what thread). I am always seated upfront in the TI, and would welcome a drier ride.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 3:38 pm 
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Same here, but absent a swell, wouldn't that be the "downwind" side on a port tack? The boat wants to round up so you apply drag to the starboard aft side. Essentially dragging on the side you want to point the boat?

Let me know if I am being cixelsyd here. I do that a lot. :wink:

I also find that rotating the t-handle is great for finetuning course without losing speed. You can adjust the depth of the paddle also to compensate for the rise and fall of the wind. Really saves the shoulder.

Do you ever use the rear Aka to brace the paddle, or run it just behind them, relying on muscle and hull leverage?

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