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 Post subject: More Hull Issues
PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:09 am 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Did a quick search of the Forum but didn't find what I was looking for.... If its already out there.... Sorry.

So I was checking out my 17, strapping it down for trip and I noticed my starboard hull at the trailer roller is cracked and when tightening the tie down strap (with very little pressure) the hull over an approximate 12" area warps.

What is the best process for fixing this. Does the entire damaged area need to be cut out and rebuilt?

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 Post subject: Re: More Hull Issues
PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 2:33 pm 
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I heard this is an issue with 17s, so I put cradles to replace the front rollers (I used the removed front rollers to double up the rear rollers). Before doing a complete rebuild, I'd look into installing inspection ports in the deck above the area and checking the soft spot from within. Depending on the delamination/fiber resin breakdown, you may be able to fix by adding fresh resin and a sheet or two of glass mat to restiffen the area. :wink: 8)

P.S. if you install 5" polyproplene ports, I would suggest getting bottle ports. A great way to keep a couple easy access beverages on board. http://www.bottleport.com/ :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: More Hull Issues
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:43 am 
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I had a similar problem. I actually cracked my hull at the rear starboard roller point. The point load with just a roller is too high. I made cradles from aluminum and high density foam that actually sit on the rollers. I trailer the boat then lift the hulls and slip the cradles under the hull and over the roller, then tie down. Relax the tie down tension when you get the boat home.


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 Post subject: Re: More Hull Issues
PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 7:04 am 
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OK So I have taken it to a boat repair shop and they are charging me $350 to fix it. My concern is they are going to put a port hole in the deck above the roller damaged area. I will also be adding two more portholes to the hole to repair the wing inlet tubes. Will 3 port hulls in one hull still be structurally sound?

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 Post subject: Re: More Hull Issues
PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:47 am 
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Triggs wrote:
OK So I have taken it to a boat repair shop and they are charging me $350 to fix it. My concern is they are going to put a port hole in the deck above the roller damaged area. I will also be adding two more portholes to the hole to repair the wing inlet tubes. Will 3 port hulls in one hull still be structurally sound?


You shouldn't need three ports - and it's not class legal (2 max per hull). You should be able to reach the roller damaged area and the wing tube from the port directly behind the front crossbar. DO NOT allow them to put a port in forward of the crossbar.

Does your boat repair place know what the inside of a Hobie 17 looks like? There are structures inside the hull that support the wing tube and the centerboard. If they cut a port in the wrong place, they (and you) would be very disappointed. The proper way to fix this problem is shown in the "This Old Hobie" article in the Mar/Apr '08 HOTLINE: http://www.hobiecat.com/hobieclass/eHCA ... 4_2008.pdf

You go in through the bottom, not the top. It's a major repair.


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 Post subject: Re: More Hull Issues
PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:06 am 
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MBounds wrote:
Triggs wrote:
OK So I have taken it to a boat repair shop and they are charging me $350 to fix it. My concern is they are going to put a port hole in the deck above the roller damaged area. I will also be adding two more portholes to the hole to repair the wing inlet tubes. Will 3 port hulls in one hull still be structurally sound?


You shouldn't need three ports - and it's not class legal (2 max per hull). You should be able to reach the roller damaged area and the wing tube from the port directly behind the front crossbar. DO NOT allow them to put a port in forward of the crossbar.

Does your boat repair place know what the inside of a Hobie 17 looks like? There are structures inside the hull that support the wing tube and the centerboard. If they cut a port in the wrong place, they (and you) would be very disappointed. The proper way to fix this problem is shown in the "This Old Hobie" article in the Mar/Apr '08 HOTLINE: http://www.hobiecat.com/hobieclass/eHCA ... 4_2008.pdf

You go in through the bottom, not the top. It's a major repair.


Wow, ok well, I hope he hasn't started on it yet. Thanks for the info.

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 Post subject: Re: More Hull Issues
PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:31 am 
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Well, I went and talked to the boat guy with this new info. He wasn't impressed but he seemed to be somewhat reasonable about it.

Lets hope my 17 isn't butchered when I get it back.. There aren't many people around here that know how to fix them.

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 Post subject: Re: More Hull Issues
PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:29 am 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
One more question. Is a 6" porthole class legal?

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 Post subject: Re: More Hull Issues
PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:40 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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6" ports are class legal - there is no rules limitation on port hole size. However, most people will tell you that 6" is probably overkill and you'll be removing a lot of deck if you put in a port that large. A 5" port is better if you can work with it and this is the most common size you'll see. 4" ports are often too small to do any real work in. When I stick my arm inside a 4" port, it about takes up the entire opening.

sm


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 Post subject: Re: More Hull Issues
PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:40 am 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
OK, thanks

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