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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 5:49 pm 
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Hi everyone. I just purchased a used 2004 H20. It looks like the boat was barely used as the sails look brand new and the daggerboards and the area under the tramp is all glossy. It was stored outside so it dulled out but shes is awesome shape!

Took her out for our first sail today and had a blast in 8-10 mph winds. Not much but fun for the first time out. Cant wait to get her on the ocean!

4 questions come to mind. For now :D
1) I bought the mast stepper 3, tried it for about 10 minutes and then just stepped the mast the old fashion way. Anyone have pictures of how they step their H20 using the MS3?
2) The little plastic bushings between the rudder pins and the rudder casting, one side doesn't have any and someone told me to replace both with SS tubing from the hardware store that fill the gap. Then replace pins. Is this commonplace? Any more details? Should it be lubricated?
3) The tramp is blue and rather faded but in decent condition. One problem is that it's pulling put on the back left corner. Started out 6", progressed to 12". Tried to relace by removing and that corner keeps coming out. Any suggestions?
4) How to keep the downwind jib sheet from getting stuck on the mast? Always happens and then gets caught up when tacking.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 2:46 pm 
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Location: Storm Lake, IA
Reefingbuddha wrote:
2) The little plastic bushings between the rudder pins and the rudder casting, one side doesn't have any and someone told me to replace both with SS tubing from the hardware store that fill the gap. Then replace pins. Is this commonplace? Any more details? Should it be lubricated?

I would just buy the plastic ones from a Hobie dealer they are inexpensive. actually get two sets they are easy to lose.
Reefingbuddha wrote:
4) How to keep the downwind jib sheet from getting stuck on the mast? Always happens and then gets caught up when tacking.

We tie a bungee from the diamond wire turnbuckle to the bridal. It keeps the sheet up where won't get hooked.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 10:30 pm 
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I don't think you want metal on metal. Like Andy says, go with factory plastic available from your nearest Hobie dealer. Mariner Sails in Dallas is my supplier. Great service. http://www.mariner-sails.com/

I tie a bungee from the diamond wire turnbuckle to the dolphin striker to keep the jib sheet out of the mast. It's less clutter up front, but I've never tried Andy's way, it might be better. Just giving you another alternative.

Tramp pulling out in the back corner? Sounds like the fiberglass rod has slipped out of the aft lacing. Take a look at the assembly manual for pictures. It's on the Hobie Cat website. It may be as simple as untying your lacing, repositioning the rod, then tightening it back up so that it doesnt' move.

Good luck. Where's home port?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:21 am 
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Thanks guys!

- The line worked perfectly to keep the jib sheet from getting tied up, thanks!
- it was actually a hobie dealer that recommended I put the ss sleeve in there. Said it was a old racing trick that everyone did as the plastic ones wore out quickly. Just a load of bs?
- the tramp is pulling out of the starboard tramp track. Today it came up all the way out except for 3" near the front crossbar. I restrung the tramp this morning again and tensioned it. I assume one of two things is happening. 1) the actually triple thick "corded" edge of the tramp has somehow thinned out under strain and now won't stay in the track. 2) the track is slightly wider in the back so it works out easily. 3) im too fat.

The tramp is only 6 years old but it was left outside most of that time.

So about being too fat, apparently I'm also not fat enough with my crew to right a hobie 20, as we found out today. Together we should way close to 410 pounds so I thought we should be able to get her over easy. So, loosen main sheet and jib, stand on the hull in the water, both lean back on righting line and nothing. So move weight to front, allow bow to move into the wind 15 degrees, lean back again, nothing.

Long story short we kept trying and ended up drifted to the other side of the lake and we finally able to right her after climbing on shore and slowly stepping the mast.

More questions!
1) I have a mini bob from my h16, worth attaching to the mast? One of our biggest problems was keeping the comp tip above water. I thought that might have been a big reason why we couldn't right her.
2) the shroud extender kit you can buy, worth it? Is there a risk of demasting?
3) is a righting bag a worthwhile accessory?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 10:57 am 
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Of the three options you listed, the only one I would choose would be the righting water bag. You might also consider a righting pole. However, at 410lbs, you should be able to right the boat in just about any conditions with proper technique. Did you loosen the mainsheet, traveler, jib sheet and downhaul before attempting to right the boat? If you don't undo all of these, the sails can hold water making righting impossible.

I raced the 20 for several years and never heard of using stainless tubing in place of the plastic rudder bushings. I wouldn't do it because of potential corrosion issues between the stainless and aluminum. Brass might be OK, but probably just go with the standard plastic (nylon) and replace them when they wear out.

sm


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 2:21 pm 
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srm wrote:
Of the three options you listed, the only one I would choose would be the righting water bag. You might also consider a righting pole. However, at 410lbs, you should be able to right the boat in just about any conditions with proper technique. Did you loosen the mainsheet, traveler, jib sheet and downhaul before attempting to right the boat? If you don't undo all of these, the sails can hold water making righting impossible.

I raced the 20 for several years and never heard of using stainless tubing in place of the plastic rudder bushings. I wouldn't do it because of potential corrosion issues between the stainless and aluminum. Brass might be OK, but probably just go with the standard plastic (nylon) and replace them when they wear out.

sm


Im sure it's an issue with technique. The only thing i didn't loosen completely was the downhaul. I did try completely removing the main sheet from the boom to no avail. I'll see if i can find a righting bag or better yet a pole.

I figured the ss thing was bs, seemed counter-intuitive after all the effort keeping SS and Al apart everywhere else. Ordered some new bushings/grommets/whatever today, should be here tomorrow. Thanks for the input!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 4:14 pm 
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Location: Storm Lake, IA
this might be a silly question but did you check to see if the mast was water tight? If it is leaking it would be impossible to right. My daughter and I at 340 lbs can right ours with little problem.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:57 am 
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I did not check. What's the easiest way of going about doing that?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 8:10 pm 
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take the rigging off and dunk it in the lake. Look for bubbles


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:27 pm 
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Once the mast has drained, seal the joints at the mast base and mast head, the rivet holes, and the seam where the comptip joins the mast with 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, http://www.mariner-sails.com/PartDetail.asp?id=24927. This stuff is far more durable than the clear silicone sealant you can buy at Home Depot, although it's white and will contrast with a black mast.

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H16 #112205 (Richard Petty Signature Edition)
H14T #47787
H20 #647 (sold)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 3:49 pm 
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Checked today, no leaks!

I got a solo righting kit (since I had one on my h16 which I liked) and gave it a try today, even though it works great and I see how it can defeintely help if your trying to right it by yourself, i think it can also be pretty dangerous if not used properly. In trying to re-pin the shroud we capsized in the opposite direction before re-pin which caused some serious problems as now the the hull that was in the air was at a more significant angle then normal. A nice guy in a motor boat gave us a hang.

We capsized later, right in front of a tour boat of course, and had np problem righting her without the shroud extender. Must have been a issue with technique. At least the shroud extender will be on there in case I ever need the extra leverage. I do think I'll try to shorten the extension a bit as it seems excessive.

I also purchased some tramp clamps which are listed in the hobie catalog and they have solved most of the tramp sliding out of the track problem. Great little product!

Thanks for all the advice guys!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 9:56 am 
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No one adressed the tramp issue, and I know you have added the tramp clamps, but there is one more step. There should be a grommet at the front and back corner of the tramp. After the tramp is threaded and tight, you drill a 3/16" hole in the track adjacent to the grommet and then use a shackle through the grommet to keep the rope from starting to pull out. As you have found out the hard way, once it starts pulling out, it can move like a zipper. If it ever pulls out again, squeeze the track tighter with a pair of plyers. The aluminum track can open up. You have to be careful not to close the track or crack the aluminum, but you get the idea.

One note on drilling the holes for the shackle, I use a pin and ring shackle and use the "d" portion as a drill guide. You want the shackle snug to keep the tramp in place, and this is the best way to do it without guessing. Also make sure the ring is on the underside of the tramp for obvious reasons.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 7:36 pm 
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When righting a 20 you always want to position the boat properly into the wind, I prefer just off perpendicular as the boat wil rotate on you as try to right it. I always keep my jib cleated as well, while uncleating the main. I do that as the wind can really help to right the boat. It also starts very slow so even when you think it's not moving, it really is and requires a bit isometrics. I'm 220 and right a few times solo and i couldn't have done that without the help of the wind. Other times there is no way.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 12:21 pm 
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Hammond wrote:
No one adressed the tramp issue, and I know you have added the tramp clamps, but there is one more step. There should be a grommet at the front and back corner of the tramp. After the tramp is threaded and tight, you drill a 3/16" hole in the track adjacent to the grommet and then use a shackle through the grommet to keep the rope from starting to pull out. As you have found out the hard way, once it starts pulling out, it can move like a zipper. If it ever pulls out again, squeeze the track tighter with a pair of plyers. The aluminum track can open up. You have to be careful not to close the track or crack the aluminum, but you get the idea.

One note on drilling the holes for the shackle, I use a pin and ring shackle and use the "d" portion as a drill guide. You want the shackle snug to keep the tramp in place, and this is the best way to do it without guessing. Also make sure the ring is on the underside of the tramp for obvious reasons.


Thanks Hammond!

The tramp clamps have worked for now. I positioned three at the end and then spaced another one about 6" away as the tramp had strarted to run again. It stopped the run and now appears to be holding well.

If it becomes a problem again I'll certainly try it you way. I was trying anything I could before drilling or altering the track in any way.

Thanks for the detailed description!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 12:29 pm 
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buzzman2 wrote:
When righting a 20 you always want to position the boat properly into the wind, I prefer just off perpendicular as the boat wil rotate on you as try to right it. I always keep my jib cleated as well, while uncleating the main. I do that as the wind can really help to right the boat. It also starts very slow so even when you think it's not moving, it really is and requires a bit isometrics. I'm 220 and right a few times solo and i couldn't have done that without the help of the wind. Other times there is no way.


Thanks for the advice. I kind of got a feeling for how the wind effects the capsized boat last time I was out and i think I know what you mean. I'll be heading out tomorrow and will "practice" a few times.


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