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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 7:45 pm 
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I switched to the 3:1 and I think that is helping.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 4:19 am 
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TxYackMan wrote:
I switched to the 3:1 and I think that is helping.

Mark,

Hate to tell you but I switched to 3:1 before I went sailing the first time and my main sheet did the same thing. When I started this thread I was still rigged that way. I've gone back to 2:1 because I got tired of all the line in the cockpit at 3:1.

It might slow the damage down but it won't stop it.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 5:21 am 
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Agreed. I think it is still fraying perhaps at a slightly slower rate.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 7:46 am 
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captain-max wrote:
I wonder if adding a fairlead to the [aft] cleat would help, same as the furling line cleat has?

Anyone tried this yet? I'm still waiting for my bits.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 7:55 am 
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I am gonna try this by using the front fairlead in the back. I think that will work???

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 8:23 am 
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captain-max wrote:
I wonder if adding a fairlead to the cleat would help, same as the furling line cleat has?


I think adding the fairlead might help but it would also add a lot more torque on the two little screws that are used to hold the cleat to the aka. I am afraid you could rip them out of the aluminum aka.

They make a swivel block that can be mounted to the deck of the boat in front of the cleat which would turn the line to avoid the wear but I don't know if the deck would be strong enough so I'm still waiting for Hobie to come up with a solution.

Here is a link to the type of block I'm talking about http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=92643&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10102&subdeptNum=10172&classNum=10179

This one seems a bit much for the job but I ran out of time looking for a smaller one.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 1:15 am 
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Jerry, not doing it just yet, but I'm thinking about swapping the existing front cleats to swivel cleats. Then I could operate them from the tramps, with the tiller extension I'm thinking about.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 5:44 am 
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Max,

Have you found a swivel cleat that would work in the rear?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 3:04 pm 
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I searched the Harken site for the same cleats used by Hobie - couldn't find them!

Also looked for a swivel cleat, something like this:
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It's a Harken Cam Base #240

However, the base would need an adaptor to fit the xbar, and I would have preferred a fixed-position fairlead, with swivel cleat - for the front, anyway.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 6:28 pm 
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Max,

I wonder if Hobie is looking into this because the way the turn block is positioned in relation to the rear jam cleaat is the design issue that's causing the problem.

Any cpmments Matt?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:45 am 
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Matt,

Is Hobie looking into a way to correct this problem?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 10:36 am 
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Had not been following this thread closely. Engineers think that it wears mostly at the point of the cleating action. The quality of the line may not endure chafe as well as it could.

I'll pass along the comments.
Quote:
I wonder if Hobie is looking into this because the way the turn block is positioned in relation to the rear jam cleaat is the design issue that's causing the problem.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 2:57 pm 
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Matt,

The turn block that leads the sheet into the cam cleat causes the line to turn at too sharp of an angle in the rear position, The angle on the front is not as sharp and so the front cleat doesn't chafe the line.

If you take a new length of line and run it back and forth through the block and cleat holding tension on the line you will see the wear almost immediately. I don't think any line will stand up to it for any length of time.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:23 pm 
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I don't see that the block is causing chafe on our boats here (just looked), but the cleat has a small metal reinforcement the ling drags over. Moving the block forward would reduce that angle / drag a bit, but not completely.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 5:18 pm 
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captain-max wrote:
I wonder if adding a fairlead to the cleat would help, same as the furling line cleat has?

Any thoughts Matt?

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