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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2010 12:08 pm
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Alan,

Ingenious! Looks like it makes it much easier to handle. If I end up with an AI, this looks like a good way to go.

Still hoping to hear from someone with a TI about whether or not the hullavator can handle it. Read a review from someone with another big double--not an Adventure but similar in size--who said it worked, but not real well.

Wavaslr


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 1:59 pm
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Location: Kensington, MD
I owned/used a couple of Hullavators. My comments:

I have a full size SUV and found Hullavator load-up pretty speedy. The cradle mechanism for the kayak to the Hullavator itself works well and I’m able to get the hull into the racks solo without the tripod set-up (for another few years I hope anyway). It helps if you have one strap pre fed so you can get the hull secured before moving away from the vehicle without risk of ...well you know. Do the first strap loosely and then feed the mast through the straps before cinching down.

The Hullavator is rated by Thule as kayaks “up to 34 inches wide and 75 pounds” so the AI is close to the limits already. My guess is the TI might push the design spec a bit far especially if there were ever a high stress situation. Aside from the weight limit the gas pressure assist is fixed at about 30 pounds so if you want to get the TI up to SUV height solo you’ll need to keep your deltoids in the weight room off-season. Somebody could beef this up if there were enough demand but hack the rack is more than I have time for myself.

If you go the Hullavator route it’s really helpful to park trim front to back when loading/unloading. With the TI I would guess this would be essential. If your regular put-in or load area (see also my driveway) is on an incline there will be problems, if not immediately then eventually, as the system develops some play. That really long lever arm creates enough torque to make it hard to seat the clamp mechanism properly on even a minor incline. With enough incline the momentum can actually wedge the latch improperly or bend the hinge.

I found the connection between the Hullavator and the rack crossbars less than rock solid. By that I don’t mean that I worried about it breaking loose all the time but rather that there was some play in the Hullavator system and chatter at speed. It increased over time and I found it annoying as much as worrisome. I took to wrapping a strap hull to cross bars after loading for long trips.

Others have commented/warned on the capacity of factory racks you might be connecting to so I’ll skip that in detail. I’ve put everything for two AIs on the roof with Hullavators for a 1000 mile r/t without problem.

Don’t be too dismissive of the trailer options. It’s much faster load/unload than the Hullavator overall. The SportsRig, rack n roll, and a lot of the custom builds people have made are light enough to maneuver by hand off the vehicle. Tha can be a big asset. One place in particular I’ll park and dolly a few hundred yards to the beach. I just slide off the cradles and then walk the trailer back to the car and stand the trailer on end locked to the bumper in a single space. Another place I go occasionally has a drive in cartop launch with not much space for turn around. I just disconnect the trailer, unload, turn the truck around and than manually walk the trailer back to the bumper. When I get home I disconnect the trailer from the SUV and walk the whole affair into the garage for storage. If you are going far MPG is also better with the trailers. Of course I have been giving this right back lately with the bikes on the roof simultaneously.

R


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 12:36 am 
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Many thanks for the in-depth assessment of the Hullavator's strengths and weaknesses. Doesn't sound as though it would work for the TI. What you say about the advantages of a trailer make sense; my problem is I don't think it would fit in the garage. I believe that I could cram the TI itself in there, though (probably with a deltoid assist). I had a Hobie 16 many years ago; the trailer fit (barely) in the two-car garage at my old house--if I pulled the boat way back on the trailer after I rolled it in. And I had a back door I could stick the mast through so I could close the front... Guess I'm going to have to find a trailer and do some careful measuring...

Anyway, thanks again. You've helped me eliminate one option.

Wavsalr


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:34 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:07 pm
Posts: 331
Location: Saint Johns, Florida
I started with 2 AI's on a trailer which fit nicely in my garage but didn't have much room to spare.

When I bought my TI I added a 3 foot long tongue extension on a hinge that allows me to fold it out of the way when I put it in the garage. With the 3 foot extension I can carry the TI further forward without hitting the back of my suv when turning. My trailer is an older style Hobie trailer that is made of galvanized steel. I'm not sure if you can put a tongue extension on an aluminium Trailex trailer.

Hinges are available on line.

FYI I also have a set of Hullavators that I want to sell.

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Jerry D.
St. Johns, Florida
2010 TI
2008 AI


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 4:55 pm 
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Rahn wrote:
I have 2 hullavators on my Honda Oddysey for my adventure islands. I often worry that it is too much weight on the roof, but it has worked so far. It took me awhile to develop a technique that works for me. I unlock the levers and use my shoulder to lift the kayak to a position where I can push the kayak up with my hands. The best thing about the hullavator is putting the straps on the kayaks while the kayak is on the side of the car.

I never thought of standing between the hull and the car before - might give it a try this summer.



Okay! This is my same situation. I want to put two AIs on my Odyssey using Hullavators. Tell me, do you remove the amas and akas before you load the central hull of each AI onto it's Hullavator? What do you do with them then?
Thanks!
:D


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:10 pm
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Location: Gilbert, AZ
Excuse me for posting this question in another topic, but this may a better section for my question. I have a question about the Thule Hullavator system. I've got a 12 foot trailer that I load a Yamaha Rhino on and have two overhead crossbars over the Rhino with steel tubing and 2x4's to carry my AI and another kayak. The overall height is close to 7 feet and it's very difficult to get my AI and another yak up on top. Do the rack manufacturers make a base crossbar for the Hullavator that can be bolted to steel tubing or a 2x4 wood crossbar? If I'm able to mount the Hullavator, how difficult will it be to raise and lower the AI at that height?

Thank you for feedback.

Bob

Gilbert Arizona


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 8:46 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
Yes, Thule sells the cross bars seperate from anything else. They come in different lengths - I bought the longest available (about $10/ea more than next size down) and cut them to size. You really dont need the Thule ones though - in fact, I might have preferred to have just bought some good grade steel tubing as I dont like how the Hullivator mounts "catch" the Thule cross bars. The mounts have a metal strap that doesn't quite catch the bars too well.
Image

In this picture, the metal strap (E) slides down the mounting tab in the base arm (A) and then swings under the cross bar and is bolted to the far side. In designing this strap they made a bevel in it (i'd imagine to better fit round bars - but from other posts it doesn't do that too well).

This allows the base arm (A) to slightly twist on the cross bar - not too noticable when just mounting the arm, but hike up an AI and you'll see what I mean. I plan on using some steel plate material wider than the cross bars to take out the play - hence the thinking that properly sized steel tubing used as cross bars may eliminate that need and shore up the whole rig.

As to 7 feet, I'll have to do some measuring later on as my rig is now dismounted, but I'm 5'7" tall and have a tall SUV, Im at the upper limits with my arms fully stretched and on toes ... which I just measured at - drum roll - exactly 7' !!

Also note, any steel tubing MUST be protected with a good couple of coats of paint or better yet, powder coating - triple so if your useage includes salt water.

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Alan W.
'07 Hobie Adventure Island #1
'07 Hobie Adventure Island #2 Golden Papaya AI LadyJane
'06? Hobie Outback SUV


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 10:27 pm 
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Easel Lift Tripod. Great Idea.........I was thinking the same thing ( But never did )...But I was going to use Alum. Peavy Speakers stands form an old Sound System ...Similiar to the what you used ...But more heavy duty..check them out...I got 2 for $50 20yrs ago...Good luck, I have a hernia & sometimes my Outback gets heavy ( Bulky) mostly..I'm 62--170ibs...Anything can help....Sully . Thanks for the Pics... :D :D :D Ps I use 2 small solid balls( About 2-21/2 in. in Dai.) & put them in the handles to hold the handles unlocked to move it up & down....I attach them together with a 8ft string. I pushed the string through with a Leather stitching awl,...Keeps them from getting lost also ...Good Luck All...Sully


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:30 pm 
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This is a great pickup add ons but the downside is it's availability in certain regions. You need this imported from north American.

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