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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:26 pm 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
All,
I hope someone can give me a solution to my problem as I am getting tired of replacing my cams every 6 months.
When my rudder cams are brand new, I drill a small hole in the cam for the Hobie All-Purpose tool. The hole allows me to use the tool to reset my cams where they are stuck in the down position. After a few times using the tool, it eventually starts cutting into the cam and ultimately, the tool slices through the cam wall. That makes using the tool ineffective for resetting the cams so I have to resort to using a screw driver to reset them. Using a screw driver to reset the cams while the boat is under way is close to impossible.
Is there any way to keep the tool from cutting into the cam. If the point on the tool was bent 90 degrees, it would prevent the tool from cutting into the cams. Is there a way of reinforcing the cam to keep the tool from cutting into it?
I appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks!

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Eric Weller
2006 F18 Capricorn
1980 H16
Keep the pointy side up!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:33 pm 
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Why are you using the tool so much? I've got 3 boats and I think I've used the tool twice in 5 years.

Fix the real problem (cams not rotating properly).


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 12:34 pm 
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Location: Lake Champlain, Vermont
+1, I have never needed my tool and am having trouble understanding why you are needing it so much. Maybe a refurb of the plunger, spring and screw?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 1:28 pm 
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Location: Winston Salem, NC
I have found that to reset the cam while underway, I hook the main sheet around the cam and pull on it. I think you need to check the adjustment to ensure that there isn't too much play allowing the rudder to pop up past the cam. I don't have that tool but have not had that much trouble with cams. I may have replaced about 6 of them in 25 years.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 5:42 pm 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
I have replaced the spring, delrin plunger and screw along with the cams. The plunger works easily when I press down on it.
I have noticed that if the rudders get popped up from hitting the shore, I will not have to reset the cams. But if the rudders are lifted up from the tiller arm, they will need to be reset.
I am guessing that this is normal. How much pressure is required to pop up the rudder? Maybe my plunger screw is too tight.
Thanks!

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Eric Weller
2006 F18 Capricorn
1980 H16
Keep the pointy side up!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 6:30 pm 
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ericweller wrote:
I am guessing that this is normal.

That is not normal.

I'll guarantee that if you pull aft on the tip of the rudder (when locked down), it will travel back some distance before you feel significant resistance. What's happening is that the plate (adjustable rudder castings) or the pin (old-style rudder castings) is not seated in the "crook" of the cam. When you pull back, or hit bottom, it slides forward, seats firmly in the crook and rotates the cam.

When you pull straight up, the plate (or pin) is far enough aft that the "finger" of the cam flexes enough to let the tiller arm go without rotating the cam.

If you have the adjustable upper rudder castings, it's an easy fix. Just adjust the plate forward a bit.

If you have the old style castings, you'll need to fill/re-drill the upper hole in the rudders. Try moving the center of the hole forward and up (about the the 2 o'clock position when looking at the starboard side) about 1/4". The new hole will overlap the old, so use a small diameter bit to drill a pilot hole first.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:04 am 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
What a perfect explanation for what is going on! That is exactly what is going on when I lift from the tiller arm. I have the old style castings so I will have to redrill the rudders.

Before I fill and redrill, will this change affect my weather helm? Mine is perfect right now and it would seem that moving the top hole forward would change the rake of the rudder aft which would affect the helm control.

Thanks!

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Eric Weller
2006 F18 Capricorn
1980 H16
Keep the pointy side up!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:11 am 
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It should not affect your helm. Moving the upper hole forward is just removing slop in the system.

The lower hole is what really influences rudder rake. Moving it forward actually increases rudder rake forward (and reduces helm feel).


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 5:20 pm 
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Location: Lake Norman NC
small screwdriver is the wepon of choice


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 5:37 pm 
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Location: Saskatoon , Sk
I had a world of problems until I started using Lubricant. Everything was new and adjusted but would not work. A little bit of vaseline twice a year and NO more problems. My guess is that the plastic in the plunger does not like the plastic in the cams. They seem to bind with very little pressure.

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I wish winter was not so long in Sask. Canada. It's hard to sail on ice! 1984 16' hobie cat Sail# 84848


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 5:39 pm 
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Location: Saskatoon , Sk
Thats what she said

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I wish winter was not so long in Sask. Canada. It's hard to sail on ice! 1984 16' hobie cat Sail# 84848


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 3:26 pm 
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Location: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Burley Burlando wrote:
Thats what she said

:lol:

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2011 H16... Have a Hobie Day!
1983 H14 Turbo...


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:35 am 
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Location: Washington, DC
MBounds wrote:
ericweller wrote:
I am guessing that this is normal.

That is not normal.

I'll guarantee that if you pull aft on the tip of the rudder (when locked down), it will travel back some distance before you feel significant resistance. What's happening is that the plate (adjustable rudder castings) or the pin (old-style rudder castings) is not seated in the "crook" of the cam. When you pull back, or hit bottom, it slides forward, seats firmly in the crook and rotates the cam.

When you pull straight up, the plate (or pin) is far enough aft that the "finger" of the cam flexes enough to let the tiller arm go without rotating the cam.

If you have the adjustable upper rudder castings, it's an easy fix. Just adjust the plate forward a bit.

If you have the old style castings, you'll need to fill/re-drill the upper hole in the rudders. Try moving the center of the hole forward and up (about the the 2 o'clock position when looking at the starboard side) about 1/4". The new hole will overlap the old, so use a small diameter bit to drill a pilot hole first.


Thanks for the detailed explanation, Matt. We're having exactly the same problem with many of the H16s at my club. We don't have any Hobie tools, and people don't know how to pop the cams with the mainsheet. So we keep wearing out our cams.

Are there any recommended procedures for checking, adjusting and, if necessary, repairing the cam setup and rudder casings? While we're at it, I'd love to check the alignment, incl. weather helm, of all our rudders. Any tips or instructions for that?

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-Roland
Sailing vintage Hobie Cats in West Africa.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:51 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
Seems like this is a very timely article:
This Old Hobie from the yet-to-be published Winter 2011 HOTLINE


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 11:49 am 
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MBounds wrote:


Wow! That is timely indeed, Matt. Thanks a million for the advanced release.

I'll print it out and bring it with me to the sailing club this weekend. :mrgreen:

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-Roland
Sailing vintage Hobie Cats in West Africa.


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