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 Post subject: Trailering the Hobie 16
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 10:01 am 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:26 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Minnesota
I picked up a 1989 Hobie 16 but all the rigging was removed. I am wondering how much of the rigging you can leave on the Hobie when trailering (standing and running), and how to store it on the Hobie when trailering.

Thanks,

John


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:22 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:51 pm
Posts: 19
Location: NW Ohio
When trailering mine, I left all of the rigging on the boat. I attatch the jib clew blocks to the forestay bridle and tighten it up with the jib sheet. As for the standing, I coil the trappeze lines and shrouds (2 in each coil) together, wiretie them, then tie the coil down to middle lacing of the tramp to keep it from flying all around.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 9:57 am
Posts: 1604
Location: Clear Lake Iowa
Alot of people use those saddlebags that go over the mast and coil up the sides and forestay and stick them in there. I think saltydog has them pretty cheap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 12:46 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:26 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Minnesota
So basically, everything but the main and the jib can stay on the boat when it is being trailered. Also, I received 4 trapeze lines, are they usually all 4 connected when sailing (2 on each side)?

Thanks for your responses,

John


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 9:57 am
Posts: 1604
Location: Clear Lake Iowa
Yep. Just un hook the shock cord and roll them up too and tie them down on the tramp or stick them in saddlebags.
PS You still looking for a mast?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:26 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Minnesota
Well, I did find someone with a comptip for $100.00. I haven't purchased it yet though. I thought I would wait until I can get a closer look at the mast and make sure there isn't anything else wrong with it. Also, I believe I will need a new luff track since where the mast meets the comptip the luff track is all bent up. Is it easy to just replace the luff track that is bent or do you have to replace the whole thing?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 9:57 am
Posts: 1604
Location: Clear Lake Iowa
I don't know.
If you want the mast we have, which is real nice, $175 if you can pick it up. We're pretty close, 45 min south of Cabela's.
cw


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:26 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Minnesota
OK, I'll keep that in mind. Thanks again.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:44 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:45 am
Posts: 759
Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
John,

Here's the info on luff track replacement from the FAQ section of this forum.

Luff Track removal and installation instructions

http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/38584001.pdf
_________________
Matt Miller
Hobie Cat USA

In regards to trailering, we leave all the wires, trap included, (like Chris said undo the bungees under the tramp) attached to the mast tang. When the mast is down, pull the step pin and walk the mast forward, set the mast on the trailer support, tie off the forestay around the base of the mast using the jib halyard and any cleat. Pull all the shrouds and trapeze wires up towards the front (towards the base) until the shrouds are taught and lash right to the mast with a few short bungees or rope. Coil up the excess trap wires and tie to the hiking straps on the tramp. Secure the mast to the trailer support and at the rear crossbar with your throwable cushion underneath it for protection. Put your sails, boom, block/sheet and hiking stick in the sail bag and tie caddy corner across the tramp, and per rk04 attach the jib clew to the bridle/forestay chain plate and tighten your jib sheet. Tie the jib sheet tail to the hiking strap.
Cool thing is you don't really need a lot of extra stuff to "sustain life" with a 16, but things like a sail tube and box on the trailer are nice.

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hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2006 2:24 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2005 12:56 pm
Posts: 686
Location: Los Angeles
John,
I use a mast cover. First, I bungee (small 6 inch bunbees) all the standing rigging (including halyards/downhauls) to the mast after disconnecting them and taking the mast down. I leave the bridle on the boat. Then I put on the mast cover which keeps everything nice and neat before placing it onto the mast support. Everything continues to be nice and neat until I need to step the mast again. Remember, there's an operative word that exist in the sailing community and that word is "system. The afforementioned is the system I use. My recommendation to you is to use whatever system works best for you.

David


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 Post subject: trailering
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 2:47 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 2:32 pm
Posts: 7
Location: birmingham, AL
ALSO , THink about trailiering the boat Correctly, I know I am going to get a lot of laughs for this but, trailer the boat Sterns (rudders) first. Then Place the Back post over the front rollers of the trailer gives the best togue weight, There is a reason, When it comes time to put up the mast, leave the trailer attached to the car, Roll the boat off half way till the back post are over the back rollers. Then a single person acon walk up the mast, and place the bridle pin all by their lonesome, I use to do this when I was 15 years old. it works great, but a lot of people will stare and ask why you tow your boad backwards>>

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Rene J. Messier
16 owner, 16, 18 sailer, 16- 18 racer

oh I work also!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 5:17 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 6:06 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Atlanta
I found the best tie downs for hulls, wires, sandals, everything!

http://nrsweb.com/shop/product_list.asp?deptid=1188

They are far superior to bungee chords
-Kirk

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"Breach hull all die"
'83 H16
'90 Hobie One 12


Last edited by Hobie One Kenobi on Mon Mar 06, 2006 5:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 6:51 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 10:43 am
Posts: 779
Location: St. Louis, MO
Look for motorcycle tie downs at Wal-Mart, Home Depot, or Lowes. They are the same thing. You can get ratcheting tie downs for the hulls and the friction locks like in the above post. Plus you can get a package of 4 for less than $20 in the stores.

_________________
Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 8:16 am 
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Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:37 pm
Posts: 239
Location: Columbus Ohio
You get what you pay for with tie downs. A good pair will last more than twice as long as a cheap pair. The cheap ones get loose. I know the application is a little different, but I had a cheap one fail without warning with a motorcycle in the back of a pick up and it was only a two hundred pound bike.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 9:11 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:45 am
Posts: 759
Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Thought this to be a good rule of thumb,

Check the straps' tension at 1 mile, 10 miles and 100 miles, and then every 100 miles after. From personal experience, straps that were wet when put on will loosen after the blow dry.

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hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297


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