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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 10:07 am 
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Location: Plymouth, UK
Hi,
I have a 1982 H14T, and a 1994 H16. The H14 has black EPO rudder blades and the H16 has white. Just a couple of questions:

1. Am I right in thinking that the rudder blades should be identical and interchangable? Should the holes in all the rudders be in the same place or have they changed the castings over the years?

2. I can see some fibre matting showing through the black blades, and I have a friend who runs a car body shop. Should I rub them down and get him to spray them with 2-pack? Seems easier than the epoxy+graphite option often mentioned.

3. The white blades for the H16 are different! The holes do not line up with each other. This makes it difficult to set the rudders to the same angle. In fact I can't see how one of them would ever work effectively as it is. Should I fill the holes with epoxy+fibre and use the black epo blades as templates to re-drill them?

Lots of questions I know, any help appreciated.
Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 10:10 am 
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Location: Plymouth, UK
Should have mentioned, the white blades do not have "epo" on them, they look like they are from different boats as they have different markings, one has "16" moulded into it in a circle, the other has very little markings.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
This should keep you occupied for a while . . .
This Old Hobie - Drilling Rudders from the yet unpublished 2011 Hobie HOTLINE magazine


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:49 pm 
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Location: Pearland, TX
MBounds wrote:


Great Article! Thanks

_________________
Mike
Pearland, TX
1990 Hobie 16
http://feidler.blogspot.com/
Member of Surfside Sailing and Hobie Fleet 33
http://hobiefleet33.com


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:06 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2009 4:47 am
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Location: Plymouth, UK
Excellent, answered a lot of questions about the rudders.

How about question 2, is two-pack ok to use?

Quote:
2. I can see some fibre matting showing through the black blades, and I have a friend who runs a car body shop. Should I rub them down and get him to spray them with 2-pack? Seems easier than the epoxy+graphite option often mentioned.


One more question, one of the blades has a brass insert in the hole. I'll need to remove this before filling. Does this help identify the type of blade or which boat it's from? I'm guessing it's not a hobie original epo.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 5:46 am 
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Location: Plymouth, UK
Update... Just did some sanding on the white blades. Turns out they are plastic and not fibreglass which explains the metal inserts in the holes. What would you recommend for filling the holes with? Still epoxy?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 8:38 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
Always fill the holes with epoxy (remove the bushing first). I've never seen bushings used on plastic rudders, though. Usually they're used on foam-core fiberglass rudders, where the bolt will wallow out a bare hole.

The easiest way to determine what the rudder's made of is it's weight. Plastic rudders are very heavy - ~ 7 lbs each. Fiberglass rudders are ~ 5.5 lbs. EPOs are ~ 4 lbs. The Euro Carbon rudders are only about 3.5 lbs (they float).

I'm not sure what "2 pack" is. Two-part urethane paint? (Spraying that stuff is nasty work.)

There are a couple of threads about refinishing sun-damaged EPO rudders (just do a search). Some people have achieved good results with appliance spray paint.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 10:43 am 
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Location: Plymouth, UK
Great info: I'll get the scales out. Looked like plastic to me but I could be wrong.

Yes, I believe 2 pack is the same as two-part urethane paint. Very toxic stuff, but a friend has the equipment to spray it.

Thanks for the info, very useful.


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