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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 11:52 am 
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Location: Turks and Caicos Islands
Have you guys developed a good way to launch and retrieve the boat from that Trailex trailer yet? Launching it is fairly straightforward...getting it back on is a bit more problematic. It's difficult for me to get the trailer deep enough to float the boat on. And I have already seen a couple slices in it from the sharp edges of the aluminum.

Some kind of big friendly roller back there would be good. Something to keep the boat off the sharp stuff until it contacts the bunks.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:28 pm 
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I have not too many issues. I back up till the rear cradle is just under water, then I pull the TI the rest of the way. BTW: I do not know if this normal practice but I unplug the trailer lights before backing into the water cause I got tired of replacing the rear light bulbs.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:54 am 
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Location: Turks and Caicos Islands
Maybe I just need to find a steeper ramp. Using the beach, or over rocks, is kinda common here. I only know of a few paved, actual boat ramps.

I didn't bother putting the lights on my trailer. Its kind of a non-issue here.

I am thinking I will take a little grinder and take all the sharp edges off the aluminum sections at the back end of the trailer.

I also discovered, by the way, that a Weller soldering gun will melt a shaved bit of plastic right back into place on the hull.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:43 am 
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You make good points - I can see how that a shallow ramp or beach could be an issue. With 2 people perhaps you can lift the beast from the back but that might be a challenge. Agree with with the sharp edges on the trailer. Sorry, I could not provide much help on this one.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:27 am 
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Location: Turks and Caicos Islands
I am playing around with some ideas for a front 'y' support for the bow, and a roller for the back. I have to check around here and see what I can come up with for supplies. Not a lot of options on an island 17 miles long and 2 miles wide.

But I think one of the building supply stores here carries a selection of aluminum bar stock.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 6:27 am 
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Location: Texas
Sounds good. Let us know what you come up with.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:28 pm 
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Location: Turks and Caicos Islands
checked local aluminum stock yesterday. Pretty thin selection. I might have to re-think in 3/4" PVC and Noodles.

This is a shallow, very well used local ramp, and the softest one I can get to easily. I had to unhitch the trailer and walk it down.

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and also walked the trailer into the water for the retrieval.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:57 pm 
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Location: Texas
One idea (which I have done).

Do you have cart wheels ? I bought a set of the heavy duty Hobie cart wheels, course the beach wheels are probably better for your application. Anyway, you can plug the wheels into the scupper holes while the boat is on the trailer. Once they are in then back the boat off the rest of the way and walk it down. When beaching plug wheels in while boat is the water and then walk it up to the trailer, push it on, lift slightly to get the wheels out and then push it on the rest of the way.

Hope that made sense?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 3:24 pm 
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Location: Turks and Caicos Islands
The cart wheels make me kinda nervous after seeing what happened to another TI owner. I might wait to see what kind of fix Hobie comes up with before going that route. We have been launching in some pretty hefty chop recently. It would be lifting and dropping a boat without much encouragement.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 4:50 pm 
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Location: Houston, Texas
Gringo,

Sorry for the long post, but I have some new info you might find useful.

Below are some photos of a few mods I made to my Trailex. I added a Trailex winch post, bow stop, & winch. You'll have to call Trailex and specifically ask for the bow stop, as it's not listed as an accessory. I also ordered 4 extra web-strap clips (tie-down u-bolts).

To get the parts, I went to the Trailex web site and clicked on the button for Sport Utility Trailers. http://www.trailex.com

Once you're there, choose the SUT-200-S trailer (at the top).

Once on the page for the SUT-200-S, scroll down and you'll see several accessories listed. Those are the parts I ordered (don't forget to ask for the bow stop (or was it a "bow support?"))

When the parts arrived, I didn't assemble them per the plans, but instead rigged them in my own configuration with some additional aluminum stock from Home Depot and two Y-stops from Bass Pro Shop. Here's how things came out...

Bow stop, winch post, winch, and two Y-stops:
Image


Top view:
Image


Closer view from side:
Image


Oblique view:
Image


Here's how I tie the boat down...


CargoBuckles (two total) mounted to the trailer with the optional mounting brackets. It's important not to overtighten. Note the Trailex roller mounted just behind the tail lights. This saved my hull when I accidently dropped it onto the roller while unloading:
Image


I had to drill 7/16" holes through the trailer's cross bars, and buy two grade-5 bolts, each 4-inches long, along with washers:
Image


I mounted the two CargoBuckles so they both sit between the port ama and the main hull. Note that BoatBuckles are currently too short as they only extend to 4 feet, hence the CargoBuckles, which extend to 6 feet. However, the CargoBuckles aren't stainless steel (rats):
Image


Each ama gets two bungees (one at the front cross bar, & one at the rear (shown)):
Image


Also, I put two bungees over the bow and leave the winch connected to the T-handle as a "just-in-case measure":
Image


Thus far, I've taken a single 100-mile trip with the trailer in this configuration and had excellent results. The CargoBuckles were a dream to use; quick & easy, but they aren't the best at preventing the boat from sliding backwards while on the road. The winch proved to be a real asset. It kept the boat from sliding back too far while on the road. Moreover, it was of GREAT help as the ramp was steep and the boat was too heavy for me to pull it onto the trailer at day's end. I simply connected the hook to the T-handle and winched 'er right onto the trailer with a HUGE smile on my face. Finally, the four bungees on the amas are also quick & simple, and they do a great job at preventing the amas from bouncing off the trailer.

I hope all this helps.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:28 pm 
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Cool!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 6:39 am 
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Location: Turks and Caicos Islands
That looks pretty much like perfect. Do you have any idea how much those trailex parts would weigh? I am pretty much limited to FedEx and UPS down here for fast service and an envelope costs about $ 60 one way from the USA.

I notice you have registration numbers on your boat. Just curious, but why is that? Does Texas require you register canoes and kayaks now?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 7:00 am 
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Well not kayaks per se but, sailboats greater than 14 feet in length.

If you use the AI/TI without the sail - no registration required.
Use the sail, and registration required.

Link to the registration rules in Texas.
http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fishboat/boat/owner/titles_and_registration/

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:57 am 
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Location: Point Lookout, Maryland
We back our Trailex down the ramp to the point that our rear wheels of the truck are about a foot away from the water.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 3:07 pm 
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Location: Turks and Caicos Islands
I've been looking at that trailer, and I am thinking I might make some changes. I am thinking of moving the front cradle back past the plates that join the main beam together. Just behind them. If you look at the underside of the TI, where that front cradle touches it, it's not even close to fitting. The cradle needs to move aft to a wider part of the boat.

this will make it more important to support the front of the boat. I am working on that already.

I am also looking at the height of the cross beams above the main beam. I don't see any reason that can't be lowered a bit. Every bit will help there. If I take it down too far I'll have to drill some new holes for the fender supports to lower those, too, but that should be easy.

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