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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 4:50 pm 
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I read the instructions an I have a few questions, has anyone installed one of these?

my 'pull line' length is lot long enough to raise the TI to where I want it. Has anyone (or does anyone see why it would not work) extended the line by moving the block and tackle point to the back (instructions state front) this would five me a further 1.6m in lift height.

Sorry if this is not clear; is you can not understand my rambling I can draw and post a pic.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:08 pm 
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Location: South Florida (Coral Springs)
The distance between the rope organizer and the welded screw eye must be equal or greater than the height you wish to hoist the boat. The block and tackle must begin against the rope organizer before hoisting for the maximum lift height.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:42 pm 
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland Australia
Ditto for what Flaneur said.

These 2 things are critical.

I'd actually add a couple of inches to the distance between your 'screw eye' on the ceiling/wall to the 'rope organiser'.

I lift mine about 3 metres without any issues.

The one thing I did do was replace the 'Screw eye' with a heavier duty Eye Bolt (I went through an exposed rafter). I actually bent the Screw Eye on the first occasion.

The other thing that bamboozled me for about 30 minutes was the Pig Tail screws. They've got to be turned so that the 'curl' points towards the Rope Organiser, simply because the rope will run that way and not try and come in at an awkward angle. i.e. the 2 rear Pig tails will more or less be pointing along the boat and the front Pig tails will be more or less pointing across the boat (all directing their rope towards the Rope Organiser).

In hindsight it's logical, but I'm just a tad slow.

It's a great system when it's sorted and working.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 2:47 am 
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Here is the instructions from Harken, it shows the rope organiser in the front position.

Image

Would it be ok if I changed it to
Image
where I have the rope organiser at the rear.

This will give me enough length so I will be able to lift to the height that I am after.

Do you see any problems with doing this?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:49 am 
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In your opening post and you say your 'pull line' are you talking about the 'Hoisting Rope' (F) or the lines comprising the 'Block & Tackle' (G) ? (Which is all the same line anyhow)

If it's the 'Block & Tackle' lines (G) you may just need to increase the amount of line in that conglomeration of lines by releasing the 'Cleat' (G1) and feeding/pulling the 'Hoisting Rope' (F) to create more line in the 'Block & Tackle'....so basically the Block & Tackle lines have got more line in them to provide a greater distance of lift.

Is the configuration of your space similar to the diagram i.e. do you have a wall in front of the vehicle ?

I lift my AI to about 3 metres (from the ground) and I've got metres of spare 'Hoisting Line'.

I did have to feed the Hoisting Line into the 'Block & Tackle' section to create that 3 metre lift though.

I'd have to think about your alternative set up....it's doing me nut in at the moment and unless you've got a real different situation the standard set up would be the preferred option.

Mine is just under my back deck with no front or rear wall. Hence the 'Eye Screw/Bolt' is just in a rafter.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:52 am 
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I suppose the other question is....what model Harken Hoister do you have ?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:00 am 
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Once you've ascertained your lift height and the horizontal length from the Rope Organiser is as long or slightly longer than that to the 'Screw Eye', you want to extend your 'Block & tackle' to start pretty much at your 'Rope Organiser' when the boat is at the bottom of your lift.....so that when lifting it will travel from close to the 'Rope Organiser' to the 'Screw Eye'.

Of course, the nature of a 'Block & tackle' means that quite a lot of rope will need to be fed into that section (pulled with the cleat released) to achieve the necessary distance.

Sorry if all this isn't needed for what you're trying to achieve.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:06 am 
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Here I go again !

Probably the easiest way to look at it is in the diagram imagining that at the start of the lift (not half way as shown) that the left hand side of the 'Block & tackle' (G) was at the 'Rope Organiser' and then travels towards the Screw Eye.

If it starts at a halfway point along that section between the Rope Organiser and the Screw Eye from the bottom of the lift you'll be buggered. (figuratively speaking)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:09 pm 
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Thanks for responding.

My issue is that I do not have the 3m where my block and tackle is (G). I want my height to me 3m, as I need G to be 3m or greater to have the lift I thought :wink: that if I moved the rope organiser (L,K,I,J) to the back it would give me the 3m.

I have the 90kg hoist system.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:21 pm 
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Location: South Florida (Coral Springs)
From what you're saying, I assume the welded screw eye would still be at the front if you put the rope organizer at the back. I don't think this would work. You would have to add more pulleys for it to work to get rid of the "V" shape from the ropes from the opposite board.
I had a similar issue in that I did not have enough length from the rope organizer to the welded screw eye. I resolved this by not going straight from the rope organizer as shown in the picture, but going at an angle to get the distance I needed. On one (I actually have two) I had to mount the welded screw eye on the side wall to achieve the needed distance. You can see what I'm talking about in a previous post I made on the installation. Here's the link:
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=73&t=23018


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 11:13 pm 
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have just installed my hoist :D

Can I ask those who have the 100kg rated hoist; is it hard to pull?

I feel as though I need to get a pair of gloves (I may just be a wimp).

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:21 am 
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Paul67 wrote:
have just installed my hoist :D

Can I ask those who have the 100kg rated hoist; is it hard to pull?

I feel as though I need to get a pair of gloves (I may just be a wimp).

Yes, it's hard to pull with all of my TI gear loaded, but it is doable. It definitely takes both arms strength. It would be nice if they made these with a larger diameter rope.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 3:22 pm 
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Thanks flaner,

i thought I was doing something wrong. a larger d rope would be nice.

Well now I know all is good, I will go and get the gloves

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:12 pm 
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Hi All. Just completed my Harken Hoist installation. I opted for the 145lb version as I only have an AI. I am however on the limit as I've built a framework to hoist everything on and wheel it in/out to the car. Had to do some tweaking to the garage beams etc to get it to fit. For sure its a heavy pull but nice to walk around underneath when its hoisted. Not sure about you but I've rigged up a safety rope as well.

I do however have a question. I'm hoisting almost six feet but it would appear that the two pairs of lines are travelling slightly different distances. Over the six feet the difference adds up to about six inches. This means that everything is parallel close to the ground but a 5'8" the bow is pointing scarily downward. I've accounted for this by raising the bow at ground level but this does not seem right. Anyone else seeing something like this? My system is straight i.e. the blocks travel along the center line of the lines and not at an angle as if I were trying to gain extra height.
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:36 am 
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So I have my answer. Follow the instructions!
I did not and ran into this issue - two of the lines move more than the other two
What I had done was not run all four lines through the organizer only the shorter two. So lesson learned.
My only defense is that is easy to forget stuff when running up an down ladders.
JJ.


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