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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:11 pm 
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Location: Rockport TX
Roadrunner, what kind of material do you have on the front edge of the drivewell in that picture? It looks like you have a fiberglass mesh or something similar impregnated with DP8010.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:57 pm 
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That was part of a drivewell reinforcing kit that was available from Hobie at no charge for the early Adventures (through mid-06) and some '05 and '06 Outbacks. The kit consisted of the pre-molded fiberglass pocket you see, epoxy and longer cam bolts, and was designed to prevent damage from the Turbofins after Hobie discovered what a powerful product they had created.

These boat molds were subsequently modified at the factory with more plastic and an embedded brass reinforcement in the drivewell nose in place of the fiberglass. The interior drivewell shape was changed and the patch became obsolete.

Your '09 Adventure has the reinforcement built in and your Click N Go is a much more stable system than the older cam columns.

If you want to add further reinforcement in that area, you could probably use the 8010 NS (has stiffeners added) directly. IMO, it is important to spread this out where the drivewell meets the hull bottom so as to distribute the stress over a larger area.

I tried some fiberglass cloth with the cam columns repairs but (working one handed by feel) couldn't get it place within the short work time provided. Turns out it wasn't needed with the NS. 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:34 am 
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Hi Folks

I have discovered a drivewell leak in my sport :shock: .

I have ordered the DP8010 and am trying to figure out how to use it.
I have also made a warranty claim but it will take months before I get a replacement.

I understand that the ratio is 10 :1. After squeeezing out the correct amount from each tube;do I need to stir the mixture?

I am given to understand that I have 5 minutes before it sets so there is no room for error. Thanks in advance


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:09 am 
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Where is the crack specifically? Are pics available? In some places you can get in from behind and others you have to go from the outside. This epoxy is bonding agent so If possible, you would want to use it to adhere a patch piece; otherwise you may have to lay it on like a scab (in this case the NS would be advantageous). You can't "heal" the crack per se, so you need to reinforce the affected area.

Yes, it is 10:1, yes you have to mix it together (unless you have one of those expensive dispensers) and yes, you have less than 5 minutes before it starts to gel. You have to plan your sequence ahead of time and be all set up when you mix. 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 8:43 am 
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Here are the pictures :-

http://s1340.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 8337192748


I was hoping to smear the epoxy over the crack from the inside of the kayak.
Do you think it will work?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 8:48 am 
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This is the plan - mix the two materials in a plastic bowl and then smear on generously around the crack (with my gloved fingers) forming a scab.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 12:46 pm 
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Good pics -- they should serve as sufficient evidence for your warranty claim if you haven't already filed it.

With two cracks in that position, it will be a difficult repair and may not last long. IMO the polyethylene there looks brittle and has some underlying problems. Nevertheless it's definitely worth a shot! I propose dividing your epoxy into 3 different batches to stay within your short working time limit.

First check the bottom of the boat to see if the lower crack has breached the hull yet. If you can locate that spot, I recommend a small reinforcing scab patch there (on the outside bottom) first using about 25% of your epoxy.

After that has set up, you should apply the next scab patch on the inside fairly broad and thick to stabilize it as much as possible using about 1/2 of what is left.

Finally the drivewell crack should be addressed. About 6 years ago Hobie used to send out a free drivewell reinforcing kit for certain early production boats. Your dealer may have one sitting around or he may still be able to order it ( # 81410011). The part you would want out of it looks like this:
Image

It may need a little modification as they were not designed for the Sport. If you can get one, take the last of your Scotchweld, put it in the fiberglass piece and plant the pre-fitted piece on your drivewell crack (inside of hull).

If not, use your remaining epoxy on the inside, but reserve a little for the outside of that crack. Any material you can bond to the inside will help (customized small section of PVC pipe for example).

Best of luck -- let us know how it turns out! 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 4:07 am 
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Thanks a million roadrunner. Btw I don't believe the bottom crack is deep - can't see any breach of the hull on the outside. As for the upper crack - water was pouring in I needed to head for the shore real quick.

The DP8010 is going to arrive in the middle of the week and I will keep you guys posted on how the repair turns out. I hope hobie replaces my hull.......... :(


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:22 pm 
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What exactly do you mean by "cam post?" The pic looks like the mast socket and two scuppers...


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:37 pm 
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(censored) wrote:
What exactly do you mean by "cam post?" The pic looks like the mast socket and two scuppers...
This (above) is an inside front view of the drivewell (mast socket is not showing). Before the Click-N-Go was introduced with the 2009 models, Drives were locked in with "cam knobs". The knobs were anchored by cam bolts threaded into "cam columns" on either side of the drivewell.

In the picture above, you can see two cam columns on this 2006 Adventure. The one you see on the right is cracked. Both columns were later repaired and reinforced (see the pic on page 1 of this post).

Here is a pic of the older cam knob system:
Image
BTW, If you're buying an older Hobie, an inspection of the cam columns is the first place to look for hidden problems, especially if the boat comes with Turbofins!

Introduction of the Click N Go was a huge improvement in durability! 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 10:06 am 
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Got it! Thanks :D


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:14 pm 
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I used the ns glue which was thicker along with some pvc around the cam towers on an outback.This might give you some ideas. http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=40951 The fiberglass patch from the retrofit kit for outbacks might be close enough to work on that model. If the patch is close the 8010 ns glue will fill in the gaps enough for a strong patch. I would try for a new hull first I am not sure glue only is going to work in that high stress area. Like roadrunner said you need some patch material to spread out the load. Good luck.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 9:48 pm 
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Hello, from six years later. With some guidance from Matt Miller including learning what the cam post is actually called, I was able to find this thread. Thank you for sharing the information, I have the exact same problem and now have an idea how to proceed.


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