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 Post subject: Jib Halyard Upgrade Kit
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 2:37 pm 
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Hello Matt:
I know that the Jib Halyard upgrade is available as part of the H16 Power Pack (#2091) but is it available separately as its own kit? Do you have a parts list / installation instructions? I am looking to upgrade Jordan's 16 to make it easier for him to rig his Jib Halyard - he is just not strong enough yet. We already have the downhaul installed on his 16.

Let me know I will get Jeremy to get me the necessary part(s)/ Kit.

Thanks.

- Dwight

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Hobie 20 #916 San Jose CA 2000 Alter Cup boat
Hobie 18 #916 Santa Cruz CA 1989 Worlds Boat
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 8:19 pm 
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dwight916 wrote:
Hello Matt:
I know that the Jib Halyard upgrade is available as part of the H16 Power Pack (#2091) but is it available separately as its own kit? Do you have a parts list / installation instructions? I am looking to upgrade Jordan's 16 to make it easier for him to rig his Jib Halyard - he is just not strong enough yet. We already have the downhaul installed on his 16.

Let me know I will get Jeremy to get me the necessary part(s)/ Kit.

Thanks.

- Dwight

Yes, Dwight. It's called the Aussie Halyard kit. Have one here at the shop.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 11:17 am 
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#80660000 AUSSIE H16 JIB HALYARD KIT W/ POUCH

Page 25.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 6:06 pm 
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hello Jeremy and Matt:

Jordan's 2005 Hobie 16 already has the Aussie Halyard.
What I am looking for is the block and cam cleat and horn cleat set up as shown in the picture below. (From Matt Bounds previous post)
I am looking to upgrade the mast to have the cam cleat to make it easier for Jordan (youth sailor) to tension his own jib.

I was asking if the Cam Cleat, Block and horn cleat and associated rivets / screws came as a kit or if the parts had to be ordered separately
(without the 6:1 downhaul shown)

The class legal set-up looks like this:
Image

Thanks for your help.

- Dwight

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Dwight Manning
Hobie 20 #916 San Jose CA 2000 Alter Cup boat
Hobie 18 #916 Santa Cruz CA 1989 Worlds Boat
Hobie 16 #16 San Jose CA (Jordan) 2005 Custom Main
Hobie 16 #54466 Calling Lake Alta Tequila sunrise


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 6:56 pm 
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That system does not increase the purchase of the halyard - in fact, it makes it harder to tension the halyard.

The sole purpose of that system is to allow adjustments while racing.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 12:27 am 
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Yes Matt - we know it does not increase the purchase of the halyard.
However, Jordan saw this at lake arrowhead at the youth NA and would like it so he will give it a try.

Thanks

- Dwight

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Dwight Manning
Hobie 20 #916 San Jose CA 2000 Alter Cup boat
Hobie 18 #916 Santa Cruz CA 1989 Worlds Boat
Hobie 16 #16 San Jose CA (Jordan) 2005 Custom Main
Hobie 16 #54466 Calling Lake Alta Tequila sunrise


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 5:36 am 
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dwight916 wrote:
Yes Matt - we know it does not increase the purchase of the halyard.
However, Jordan saw this at lake arrowhead at the youth NA and would like it so he will give it a try.

Thanks

- Dwight

OK, but a few things I've gained from experience with that system:
- The cleat is too small. Use a Harken 150 cleat on a mounting plate.
- It's on the wrong side of the mast for racing (at least for rounding marks to port)
- The turning block on the front of the mast needs to be turned around to reduce friction.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 8:46 pm 
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MBounds wrote:
- The turning block on the front of the mast needs to be turned around to reduce friction.
what's the point in the Hobie block anyway?
use a simple (bullet) cheek block?
Image

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 9:03 pm 
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J_Eaton wrote:
MBounds wrote:
- The turning block on the front of the mast needs to be turned around to reduce friction.
what's the point in the Hobie block anyway?
use a simple (bullet) cheek block?


Because 1) It came with the boat and 2) by turning it around, you can re-use the rivet holes.

All you need is 4 rivets / rivet caps.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 10:09 am 
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And... the Harken cheek block does not have the strength required.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 7:16 pm 
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what year did the block move to the front?

I'm using an '86 mast and rigging in Wally style
(a solution when the wheel is toasted from UV)

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 7:44 pm 
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J_Eaton wrote:
what year did the block move to the front?

2004?

I know they were on front on the Mexico Worlds boats.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 2:00 pm 
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Hello Matt and Matt:

I see that the Harken Bullet Cheek block is not recommended (H092).
From the Hobie worlds in China video, it looks like a second Hobie cheek block was used - 20710000 (4 rivets) , not the Harken Micro Check block (H233) in the picture I found in my previous post below.

(http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=21399&p=120088&hilit=china#p120088 )


Thanks.

- Dwight

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Dwight Manning
Hobie 20 #916 San Jose CA 2000 Alter Cup boat
Hobie 18 #916 Santa Cruz CA 1989 Worlds Boat
Hobie 16 #16 San Jose CA (Jordan) 2005 Custom Main
Hobie 16 #54466 Calling Lake Alta Tequila sunrise


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:03 pm 
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MBounds wrote:
dwight916 wrote:
Yes Matt - we know it does not increase the purchase of the halyard.
However, Jordan saw this at lake arrowhead at the youth NA and would like it so he will give it a try.

Thanks

- Dwight

OK, but a few things I've gained from experience with that system:
- The cleat is too small. Use a Harken 150 cleat on a mounting plate.
- It's on the wrong side of the mast for racing (at least for rounding marks to port)
- The turning block on the front of the mast needs to be turned around to reduce friction.


You mentioned a mounting plate. Is there a special mounting plate for using the Harken 150 on the H16 mast, something to match up to the curve of the mast?

The Hobie Worlds video mentioned through bolting instead of using self taping screws. In either case, I assume the mast should stay sealed. How is the seal achieved? Marine silicon?

If through bolting, are there any special parts used to allow the parts to mesh nicely with the curve of the mast?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:02 pm 
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brucebateman wrote:
You mentioned a mounting plate. Is there a special mounting plate for using the Harken 150 on the H16 mast, something to match up to the curve of the mast?

Harken 438 Cam-matic Adapter Plate - http://www.harken.com/pdf/4853.pdf

brucebateman wrote:
The Hobie Worlds video mentioned through bolting instead of using self taping screws. In either case, I assume the mast should stay sealed. How is the seal achieved? Marine silicon?

The only way to "through bolt" the cleat is to remove the mast base and the foam sealing plug to gain access to the inside of the mast. Nobody I know does that. If they don't use self-tapping screws, they use a 10-32 machine screw and tap the hole. If you use thread locking compound (Loc-Tite), you don't need to worry about the screws backing out or sealing the holes. The mast will remain water tight.


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