Hobie Cat Forums

It is currently Tue Sep 16, 2014 1:53 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 70 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 11:32 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:23 am
Posts: 59
Location: Kailua, HI
Say for arguments sake I am really attached to the TI rudder "as is". If I MacGyvered a way to keep the rudder from popping out under stress, presently addressed by the extra bungee, would I be in the clear?

I am thinking along the lines of how a dive knife is retained in the sheath. A slot and an attached piece of spring steel similar to how this Blacke Collins designed Gerber knife is made.

Image
Image

One could use the stock setup on the boat to lower the rudder and "snap" it into place but then you would need to manually undo it to raise the rudder...or create some releasing feature :-)

I am just throwing this out there because its on my mind and I have always been impressed by how well that particular knife snaps into the sheath!

_________________
2011 TI


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:32 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:07 pm
Posts: 400
Location: CLEARWATER, MN
From your comments, it appears that the new rudder line tubes have the same
outer diameter as the old tubes to be able to be fit in the present hull tube holes, correct? Is the procedure to cut the old lines in the interior rear and tie on the new 100# spectra lines? Is the line 'splice' located near the rear hatch?
How coordinated will owners have to be to do this line replacement? I may wish to sign onto my dealer's list to get near the front of the line.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Jib ?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 4:29 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2010 12:55 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Poland - Europe
Other question
I´m looking for Jib for my TI
is this a hobie part?
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 9:14 am 
Offline
Site Admin

Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 9015
Location: Oceanside, California
Only in testing. Not available for sale at this time.

_________________
Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 9:32 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:18 am
Posts: 466
Location: Texas
Cool! New rudder and jib "Just in time for spring" ? (Fingers crossed)

_________________
Image
I'd rather be sailing,
Mark.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 9:51 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2010 7:32 pm
Posts: 86
Location: tampa, fl
the new rudder design is excellent. I dragged bottom , I caught crab trap buoys and never had a problem. It just kicks up and you have to reset it. Holding it in the up position is another step(cleating it up) and you have to rememeber to uncleat the up before you cleat the down. You can even steer thru shallow water with it dangling out but takes lots of hand power to steer much this way.
I made it to Fort Myers and pulled out after I realized I was starting to make some bad decisions. Unfortunately I was unable to find a good stopping spot to catch some sleep. The only two issues I had with the boat was the crab trap float that caught up in the ama aka joint which spun me out and a whole lot of wear and looseness in the aka casting to aka tube connection.
The crab trap float hung when the ama dove under a wave. The odds are very low this will happen again. It did pop the shear pin in the rear brace. Fortunately the tramps were out and this stopped the ama from folding in completely or I would have more than likely capsized.
The high wear on the casting has to be addressed. Pre race you could wiggle the aka tube in the casting and feel some play. Post race on one side there is is easily 1/16" play between the tube and casting. The rivets are just not holding things tight. The casting is fretting away on the tube. Any similar issues on this would be good to hear about. The only solution I can see would be a longer casting and more connection rivets . There is also a lot of play in the pin . I am sure Jim and Matt will be looking at this issue as well. The rudder is near perfect as is.
Also very little leakage into the boat thanks to Chekika and Rick Grove who showed me how to care for my twist and stow o rings.

Bosab


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 9:55 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2010 7:32 pm
Posts: 86
Location: tampa, fl
One more learning I made. Reef early and sail slow when you are not sure of things. I probably was pushing the limits and as others have said in this post the boat drives better once reefed to the right spot.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:16 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:18 am
Posts: 466
Location: Texas
Look forward to the new rudder.

Tell me more. What should I be doing for the O-rings?

_________________
Image
I'd rather be sailing,
Mark.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:47 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
Posts: 1880
Location: South Florida
Regularly lubicate the twist-n-seal hatch cover o-rings with silicone grease (available at Home Depot plumbing dept.) Keep these rings and the opening absolutely free of sand and other debris to avoid leaks.

Other lubicants tend to cause the o-rings to loose shape and sealing qualities.

Bosab--that's a good story about the crab pot grabbing you! Damn those crab pots!

Keith

PS Bosab's advice comes from a WaterTribe Everglades Challenge participant. It is sage advice.

_________________
I sail: Biscayne Bay, Everglades to Cape Romano, Ft Desoto, Cedar Key

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:56 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:18 am
Posts: 466
Location: Texas
Thanks Keith.
Will do that. I think my rear hatch does leak a tiny bit. Hopefully this will cure that problem.

_________________
Image
I'd rather be sailing,
Mark.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 10:14 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:21 pm
Posts: 2229
Location: Maui, Hawaii
Remember the 2 outside screws (right/left) on the rear hatch go through the hull and can loosen and leak if not kept tight.

_________________
Image
http://KayakingBob.com - - - - - Hobie Island Sailing since 2006 - - - - - 2011 & 2012 Hobie AIs and a 2012 TI


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 3:58 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:18 am
Posts: 466
Location: Texas
Both are loose, thanks will take care of that.

_________________
Image
I'd rather be sailing,
Mark.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2011 6:35 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:36 am
Posts: 840
Location: Gippsland Lakes Victoria Australia
Quote:
The high wear on the casting has to be addressed. Pre race you could wiggle the aka tube in the casting and feel some play. Post race on one side there is is easily 1/16" play between the tube and casting. The rivets are just not holding things tight. The casting is fretting away on the tube. Any similar issues on this would be good to hear about. The only solution I can see would be a longer casting and more connection rivets . There is also a lot of play in the pin . I am sure Jim and Matt will be looking at this issue as well.

bosab I think this issue could do with a seperate thread as I am aware of a number of posts in different threads that refer to loose rivets, galvanic corrosion caused by differing metals used on the aka knuckle assembly etc.
I have checked my 2011 AI knuckles and they all have some play in them. I also have seen my mate's akas that have noticeable galvanic rust occurring
Around the rivet points after just 3 months careful use. :o

_________________
Mickey
2011 AI Golden Papaya



Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2011 10:51 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 2:32 am
Posts: 1785
Location: Calga NSW, Australia
Gee, between the rudder and the aka joints, they seem to have transferred the worst features of the TI's to the AI, but none of the better features (like the retractable dagger board for example).

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 7:07 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
Posts: 1880
Location: South Florida
Here are some quotes from WaterTribe users of the "prototype" new rudder:

Dogslife aka Paul Kral:
Quote:
I really like the new Hobie Rudder. It is much more responsive and easier to maintain if you need to adjust the line tension.
As far as the rudder report: There is a noticeable performance difference in the new rudder. It is much more responsive. I hit some high winds and heavy seas. The rudder did not let me down. Going into Placida I ran over some shallows. The rudder did kick up.
The great new change is that all the adjustments are made at the rudder. You center the rudder and control handles. Take up the slack. Tighen the screws. Tie off excess line above the rudder.


Bosab aka Charlie Fast:
Quote:
the new rudder design is excellent. I dragged bottom, I caught crab trap buoys and never had a problem. It just kicks up and you have to reset it. Holding it in the up position is another step (cleating it up) and you have to remember to uncleat the up before you cleat the down. You can even steer thru shallow water with it dangling out but takes lots of hand power to steer much this way.


Brogan aka Paul Myers (Brogan piloted an AI)
Quote:
The new rudder worked very well in the heavy wind and waves in Tampa Bay and upwind as I moved down the coast. I felt I had more control in the waves and the boat reacted faster (of course this is just an impression).

I did have a problem on day two as I was going through Pine Island Sound, it was about 9:30pm, dark, when I lost control of the boat in big waves and rounded up. I feared that the rudder had kicked up from too much pressure, but when I checked I found rope from a crab pot float wrapped around it. I untangled the rope and continued on my way. In the morning I did tighten the rudder line just to be sure it had not stretched from this mishap.

My only complaint is that the rudder will turn almost to a 90 degree angle to the hull if you are not careful. I think it needs some type of stop to prevent this as it interferes with steering.


Matt Miller (not a WaterTribe user):
Quote:
The rudder will be much stronger on the new rudder system.

The molds are ready. Test parts being run soon. Then some extensive testing. Ready for distribution to all owners in a few months if all goes well.


Keith

_________________
I sail: Biscayne Bay, Everglades to Cape Romano, Ft Desoto, Cedar Key

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 70 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Yahoo [Bot] and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group