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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:25 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2011 7:13 am
Posts: 27
Thanks, guys. I am new to Hobies--I took a USA Sailing beginner class last summer, bought a used Hobie in September, did fiberglass work in October and read up over the winter. I didn't want to be the guy on the forum who asks "how to sail by pulling on all the ropes and stuff", but having said that, I am still a novice. My set up is almost identical to the diagram that Matt posted at the top of this chain, but I want to put the becket aft instead of in the middle. However, your posts made me realize two things: (i) a 7:1 system on a 16 may result in more leverage than I need at the expense of responsiveness (plus, the mainsheet line is 1/2 inch, which seems too thick considering that 3/8 is recommended, so that likely will reduce the responsiveness as well); and (ii) the angle of the blocks/hangars is important to sailing performance. I still have the original 5:1 Seaways, so I suppose I could still use them until I figure out the proper angles of the blocks and how to properly reeve the Harkens.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 3:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 2403
Location: Jersey Shore
If you're an average size person sailing a 16, then 6:1 blocks should be all you need. On an 18, 7:1 should be fine. The mainsheet diameter and the quality of your main blocks are going to have the most significant effect on sheeting response. Running a 1/2" mainsheet on old Seaway blocks is going to seriously hinder your sheeting ability (or I should say your sheeting-out ability). At the very least, you should invest in a decent line that's a smaller diameter. Upgrading your cam cleat from the steel Seaway cleat to a Harken cam cleat is also a fairly inexpensive way to improve the performance your system. But getting a full Harken set of blocks will make a dramatic improvement if you can afford it.

I wouldn't bother with moving around the block hangers. It's not going to make a huge difference.

sm


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 6:53 pm 
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Thanks, srm. I actually came across another post where you described how to convert a 7:1 system into a 6:1 system by using a stopper knot in the lower triple block. I don't know if this will work as well since my top blocks are comprised of 3 separate single blocks (instead of a single triple unit), but I am going to give it a shot . Hopefully that, along with reducing the size of my mainsheet, will work. I am guessing that at some point I will end up with the low profile 6:1 harken set recommended by Hobie, but I want to make sure it floats before I start dumping that kind of money into new blocks.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 6:06 pm
Posts: 610
Location: SE PA/ Chesapeak Bay
Lewmar Blocks are the best ... but $$$$'s ...

The Harkin "Carbo's" are very nice .... and slightly cheaper ....

Though once you try a mainsheet stack w/ "Triple Blocks" top and bottom ... you'll be hooked .... they allow the mainsheet stack to swivel so you can sit anywhere on the boat .... including "trapping" behind the rear crossbar, (and I believe that maybe important on a H16 in high winds.... but since I sail a H18 now ... and haven't sailed a H16 in years I maybe remembering incorrectly about this ...).

If $$$'s are a concern .... start w/ the top and eliminate the (3) "single blocks" first .... the bottom can wait till later ..... and I would hang that triple off the aft boom becket (also Mr SRM's advice ...). You can "tune" the H16 to go block-to-block ... you will just reduce the max mast rake by a percentage of the hieght of the "stacked double block" (maybe 1"-3"), until you replace it w/ a "triple" block since the mainsheet stack will be now angled aft ....

... and truthfully unless you have a new set of H16 sails you most-likely will not notice the difference in performance due to the slight difference in mast rack....

I use Yale "Conception" 5/16" dia (which runs large) for my mainsheet line .... and it's plenty strong enough ....

On my P19MX, I have used as small as 1/4" dia mainsheet line since that is a 8X1 system ... since when I ease the mainsheet I want the line to go out .... not to have to "kick" the boom ....

_________________
HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 3:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:44 am
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Location: CA
Coincidentally, I’m replacing my three single blocks with a triple with Becket, and just happened to find this thread. Anyone have a reeving diagram for this? Think I did it right, hard to tell in my living room. Found some diagrams on the Harken website, but they all have the Becket on the lower.

Thanks,


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:00 pm 
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Location: SE PA/ Chesapeak Bay
Please search my old posts .... I recently in the last (6) months wrote up a discription of how to weave a 7X1 Mainsheet stack for a H18SE.

So it's in here ..... somewhere .....

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HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:24 pm
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Location: Grand Rapids, MICHIGAN
Old thread but who cares - "data is still recent"

So I have a 18 with 6:1 (triple up and triple down) it's a little hard to sheet for me. (and hold) so how would I reeve the blocks for a 7:1 if I add a 2nd or even 3rd single on the boom?

drawing?


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