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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:59 pm 
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http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa378/dzupe/th_H17007.jpg?t=1297654521

Does anyone know a good way to fix the soft area around the ports? I believe the posts are in a poor location. I would like to put ports in the correct locations and maybe fill in the current port holes if feasible. I have experience with West Systems epoxies and fillers, and I have some Get-Rot I haven't yet used. I have also read up on how to use the Get-Rot to repair soft spots on decks, but the port holes throw a monkey wrench into my problem solving skills.

Thanks,
Dave

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:01 am 
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The ports are pretty much in the correct place for a 17. There's a lot of stress around the crossbar attachments and wing tubes - you want to keep the ports away from those.

You don't want them too far aft, though - there are cross supports for the centerboard trunk that start just a few inches down from the deck. You can certainly see them if you look aft from those ports.

The way to fix the soft spots is to remove the ports, clean out the rotten foam at the edge of the hole and fill the edge of the laminate with thickened epoxy (stuff it in as far as you can). After that does off, it forms a dam around the port hole. Then use the Git-Rot injection method to fill the rest of the soft spot. Reinstall the port.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:00 am 
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Those portholes appear to be located about a foot in front of the rear crossbar (based on the HOBIE 17 in the hull striping), rather than the more common location of about a foot behind the front crossbar. Their current location is less than ideal because of the abuse the deck takes from the skipper sitting and standing on it when getting on and off the wing.

In addition to injecting resin into the soft spot, you might also consider adding reinforcing bulkheads to stiffen up the weakened deck area. Details for doing this are in the July/Aug 2009 hotline.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:59 am 
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srm wrote:
Those portholes appear to be located about a foot in front of the rear crossbar (based on the HOBIE 17 in the hull striping), rather than the more common location of about a foot behind the front crossbar.


Correct - the resolution of the photo was so low (and so the picture was so small), that I mistook the bed of the rear crossbar for the bed of the front.

Bad place for ports, but it's the cleanest way to plug up those holes.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:13 am 
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Thanks guys!
Yeah, the pic ended up too small. It's my first attempt to post a pic.
I'll check out the July/Aug 2009 hotline. A bulkhead sounds like a good idea.
Thanks again,
Dave

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 2:56 pm 
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Ok, I now have my H17 hulls (the ones with the 5" ports in the milldle of the softspots 19" in front of the rear crossbar cl/cl) upsidedown on 6' sawhorses.
I'm working on the templates for partial bulkheads out of fiberglass sandwich 3/8" divinycell board. I'm using srm's advice & read the July/Aug 2009 hotline
on installing reinforcing bulkheads. The article didn't talk about surface preperation and he mentioned using vinylester resin. I am wondering if I can use my West Systems epoxy and various additives instead of the vinylester resin and how I should prepare the interior surfaces for bonding.

Thanks,
Dave

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 7:51 pm 
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You can use the epoxy - it's actually better than the vinylester in this case.

For bonding, scuff the surface really well with 80 grit sand paper and clean with alcohol or acetone. Make sure it's dry.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:00 pm 
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Thanks MB,
I was hoping I didn't have to scuff too much, my thinking being conservative on the original glass fibers. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:36 am 
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To add more strength to the area where you install a access port,build a "web" of sorts.I have taken an old batten and cut it down,shaped it to fit the contour of the inside and fiberglassed it to the underside of the deck.These battens,one on each side of the port about 2" or 3' away from the port need to be standing on it edge as apposed to laying flat.Like the web on a beam this method adds needed strength to a weaken area.
I cut a cardboard temple first and dry run my fit than transfer it to a batten once I have the right contour.Having the boat upside down on saw horse allows gravity to assist you.Use a little Kitty hair fiberglass to secure these webs in place and smooth out that kitty hair.Than apply fiberglass cloth and resin to yield a real finished look.This area will become rock solid.
I have successfully repair many older catamarans this way.

Good Luck,Bill 404 21SE

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 10:02 pm 
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Does anyone have 6" deck slugs from cutting 6" ports in the curved section of a Hobie Cat deck? I could use a couple to plug the holes from the 5" ports I am repairing. I'd gladly cough up a few bucks.

Thanks,
Dave

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