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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 5:16 am 
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Joined: Wed May 26, 2010 6:04 am
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Location: Tampa, Florida
Just installed some hull cradles. I used to run a strap over the top of the hulls to eye bolts outside rubber roller mounts. Those trailer connection points are now gone. I think I have a reasonable tie down solution that does not seek to damage the hull cradles, but why try to invent the wheel when there are so many experienced helpful folks here and I may be repeating mistakes made in the past (I'm good at that :wink: ).

This was the best idea I could come up with that still arrested forward and backward motion and was a secure hold to the cradles. (front strap is in front of the corner castings, while the rear straps are in back). Front pictured here.

Image

Image

If this looks good, I will install eye bolts or some such connection point on the trailer frame. Should I worry about pulling on those castings?

Thanks in advance for any advice. :)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 6:28 am 
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Location: Boston Ma / Newport RI
Looks good to me, that's how I tie down the Tiger

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 7:22 am 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
thats how i tie mine as well. The boat is only a couple hundred pounds so you really don't need to ratchet it down super tight. i take mine snug then 3 clicks. If you are going to install eye bolts I would place them a little further forward and aft on the trailer. that way your pulling the boat front and back with the straps rather than pulling it in.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 9:29 am 
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Matt Bounds has a pretty slick setup which he describes here:

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=13831&p=76858


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 9:56 am 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
I really like that set up. I'll be making some adjustments.

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'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:08 pm 
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Location: Tampa, Florida
Cool beans! I looked at the setup Matt Bounds has also. It is very nice. This seems to do the trick though. Also the eye bolt placement suggested by reelknotty (love the handle :) ) looks like an interesting idea.

Thanks to all. Great forum.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 5:55 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
The key thing to my system is that it doesn't touch the hull at all.

Wide straps flutter at highway speeds - flutter=wear (both the strap and the whatever it's hitting).

The system in your has a single point failure mode - the strap/hook can fail at any one point and you loose the entire front or back of the boat.

My system can tolerate a single failure - and give you time to notice it and have a chance to pull over and fix it.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:11 pm 
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Location: Tampa, Florida
Matt, I concede all those points. My setup will work for now. $$ is part of the equation, as well as the 20 minute ride to the launch spot. Thanks for the advice.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 12:32 pm 
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Dumb question probably but on the topic of hull cradles anyway. If I am just using two cradles for a Hobie 16 trailer is it best to install them in the front or back? I figured I would just go with two cradles and two rollers at the moment, as I've noticed seems to be a common setup. I'm moving from Grande Prairie Alberta to London Ontario and haven't had to trailer it very often so it's all new to me as far as best practices with trailering a Hobie Cat long distances.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 4:11 pm 
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Location: Charlottesville, VA
I would personally go for rollers at the back (for ease of loading the boat) but you have to keep in mind that it's easy for the bow to miss a roller when loading, and that usually puts the hull against hard and sharp bits. Cradles are nice for avoiding that.

I am going to modify my trailer this way. Might end up going for cradles all around.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:38 am 
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On most trailers, the front supports carry most of the weight of the boat, so they should have cradles. The whole purpose behind cradles is to spread the weight out over a larger area, so the hull doesn't crush.

However, a Hobie 16 really doesn't need cradles because of the hull shape. A 16 is much more durable than a round-bottom boat like an 18 or a 17. The worst thing you can do to a 17 or 18 is to step the mast while the boat is still on the trailer (with rollers, not cradles - cradles are OK).


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