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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 8:39 pm 
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Location: Boston Ma / Newport RI
Hi All,

Ive upgraded ( so I thought ) to a mast mounted spin block, it's a Harken 140 I think, with 150 cam cleat and the spin halyard is 4mm vectran line. It's been popping out with the spin up, did it three times last sail, very annoying and disastrous during a race I'd imagine. I flipped the cam so the cleat faces down, like all the other F18s. There's little to no tension on the other end of the line but it still keeps jumping out. I think the jaws of the cam are carbon, would switching to aluminum jaws help? The setup is only 6 months old, so nothing should be worn. What do you guys think?

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 9:11 pm 
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Location: eureka,california
Had that problem with the stock set up on mine. Went with the aluminum cams and haven't had a problem since.

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Rich Vilvens
F-18 5150
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http://www.sailblogs.com/member/f-185150sailing/


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 3:58 am 
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Location: Boston Ma / Newport RI
Nice, I knew that might be it!

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:17 am 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
4mm is pretty small for a 150. Vectran, dyneema, spectra don't hold well in a cam cleat either with out a cover either.


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:25 am 
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Also the line gets flattened pretty easy by the pressure from the cleat - what I do is I push a smaller piece of line inside of the halyard so that it keeps its 'round' shape - this will keep it from popping out too - the halyards get flatting and then they tend to come out - really bad when that happens and someone sails right over the top of you - it happens to everyone... just gotta get that halyard set up with a jacket or something to give it some structure - be careful putting a cover on it - since it needs to slip through the bock at the top - so can't be anything to hang up on - really needs to be a small piece of line spliced inside if you ask me.


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:46 am 
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I'm probably wrong about the line size, it might be 5mm , and it is covered with a jacket btw. I'll swap the jaws and see how she do.

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152


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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2011 9:40 am 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
Jbernier wrote:
Also the line gets flattened pretty easy by the pressure from the cleat - what I do is I push a smaller piece of line inside of the halyard so that it keeps its 'round' shape - this will keep it from popping out too - the halyards get flatting and then they tend to come out - really bad when that happens and someone sails right over the top of you - it happens to everyone... just gotta get that halyard set up with a jacket or something to give it some structure - be careful putting a cover on it - since it needs to slip through the bock at the top - so can't be anything to hang up on - really needs to be a small piece of line spliced inside if you ask me.



I've never thought about putting something in the dyneema. It would be quite a bit cheaper. The only downside until it wears in it is really slippery and tough to grip. I spliced a few feet of dyneema into the retrieval end of my halyard to prevent some wear on the spinnaker, and that last pull was tough for a while, you had to do a wrap on your hand to get a good grip.

I use a 6mm Robline line, (I think its "Dinghy Control") then pull the core mostly out and splice the cover back into the core.. From just after the cleat to the head of the spinnaker its the 3mm dyneema core. Then a short section where its the cover and the core in the cleat, then for most of the retrieval side of the line its just the cover. Saves some money too, as you pulling the core out and making the one line longer sorta. Its not a huge savings, but it helps when that stuff is $1.25+ a foot. For whatever reason just the cover is really easy to grip


My halyard cleat is a Harken H468, mounted on a Ronstan Swivel. Stay away from the Ronstan cleats in this application. The Harken has a metal strip in the cleat base that prevents wear. The Ronstan does not, and eventually the halyard will wear into the cleat base and get trapped above the jaws and you can't drop the chute and the last leeward rounding, when in first place, and beating out some rockstars....... Don't ask me how I know. :lol:


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