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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 5:55 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 18, 2010 9:39 am
Posts: 51
Problems raising and lowering the rudder using the handles having only used the boat a few times. I have adjusted the large bolt and having more success, but still some problem.

Unsure if this should be clipped up like the others? It belongs to the one that pulls up the rudder. Cant see however that this would cause a problem.

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pipesmall

Also there is a small wedged tab on the rudder itself. It rarely clicks in place when you drop the rudder ;

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tab1small

but if it does like below it then becomes impossible to raise the rudder using the handle. It feels if you pull the cord any harder something will break!

Image
tab2small

Should I rub the tab down a bit with some abrasive paper?


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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 6:16 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 2:32 am
Posts: 1785
Location: Calga NSW, Australia
My rudder can be a bit difficult to raise. I find several short sharp tugs on the up line works, rather than just pulling harder.

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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:36 am
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Location: Gippsland Lakes Victoria Australia
Most of those who clip this tab in just let it touch bottom without having the rudder locked down. It immediately releases and can then be pulled up. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 9:03 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
pav wrote:
...there is a small wedged tab on the rudder itself. It rarely clicks in place when you drop the rudder; but if it does like below it then becomes impossible to raise the rudder using the handle. It feels if you pull the cord any harder something will break!

Should I rub the tab down a bit with some abrasive paper?
The tab is to lock the rudder in the down position, which is exactly what you want. If it does not engage, rudder control is imprecise and uneven -- higher speeds can partially lift it. Having to compensate by putting more tension on the down line can make the rudder hard to turn and lead to premature line failure.

To help the tab engage, wiggle the rudder control (tiller) while pulling on the down line with the boat in motion. To lift, again wiggle left and right while lifting the rudder just prior to landing. 8)


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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 11:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 2:19 pm
Posts: 59
I've never noticed this problem, when pulling my rudder down I just yank it tight' usually with a thud ' and cleat it in....
Sometimes forgetting to undo the cleat when returning.


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 4:45 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 8:35 am
Posts: 41
Location: newquay, cornwall, uk
hey Pav, just checked the forums and noticed your post. i to have a ai 10 and have recently started my second summer sailing period. after a few recent uses, the up and down control lines stopped working, to the extent that one eventually felt the internal lines or fittings would break due the the forces exerted. i checked the internal lines using a mirror through the back hatch and they seemed to move freely, then found that the rudder up down movement wasn't responding to the control lines being pulled. duh! i loosened the one line knot and removed the large s/s nut, allowing the rudder to detach. all looked fine but i cleaned the areas normally confined when assembled, and touched all contact points with a bit of vaseline. reassembled the rudder and after a bit of to and fro, up and down movements - retied the knot. i then tested it and it worked perfectly, as it still does.

so rather than spray wd40 or an equivilent into the hidden area, where the lines would become coated, simply opening up and lubing seems the better choice. unless the lines like being lubricated. (hobie?)

another tip for you all is when i'm about to push off, or enter the water, i manually half raise the rudder so the down line control function has half the work to do when deployment takes place.

another tip, regards another post read today. after sailing, packing and rinsing the ai off, i carry a small plastic tube and i use this to siphon water out of the rod holders and mast receiver. with a steep hill next, excess water isn't needed.

hope that helps.


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 2:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
trippingwet wrote:
so rather than spray wd40 or an equivilent into the hidden area, where the lines would become coated, simply opening up and lubing seems the better choice. unless the lines like being lubricated. (hobie?)
This is not a Hobie recommendation, but I use silicon spray for the T&S and rudder lines -- works well. No sticky residue, easy to apply, no disassembly required. 8)


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