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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:12 am 
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Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 12:32 am
Posts: 29
Location: New Jersey, USA
A trip to the boating supply store sparked a few ideas on how to improve line control from the rear seat.

I'm already rigged to sail from the rear, but the stock Hobie provided hardware & placement really doesn't supplement this well.
Having to run the furling line across the front cockpit, "through" your passenger, to a cleat far out of reach makes it less than harmonious.

So I made a few impulse buys at the store and when I got home, went to brainstorming some ideas based on what I saw and what I bought.
I installed two new colored fairleads and a oversized wire hawse where I notice my lines were getting snagged and frayed. I also removed the unused cleat on the front crossbar.

I purchased this really cool cam cleat from spinlock, not realizing it wasn't the "micro" size I needed.
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I plan on replacing the Harken cleats with these after I can figure out how I am going to mount them.
Speaking of... does Hobie make a backing plate for standard sized cleats like what's available for the micro cleats? Sure would make my life easier.

Anyway.. in the process I started to go over the rigging of the boat and work out a way on how to possibly re-route the lines and making it easier to maintain the sail lines from the rear cockpit.
In the process, I discovered another point of fraying that I'd like to point out to Hobie.
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When pulled tight, that line run right across the head of that screw. Mind you, for now, I have switch the line to run through the lower block but ideally, that plate needs to be moved about 1" forward of it's current position.

Otherwise, in short, my idea is to run the furling line through the now unused block near the mast receiver and run it back just forward of the center block, where I would install another and run the furling line up to another cleat to be installed on the rear crossbar.
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If anyone has done similar or has any thoughts, please share.

_________________
- Fireseid

Running a 2010 Tandem Island transported on a modified Yakima Rack & Roll.

Modifications: Torqueedo Hobie eVolve v2; Furling line rigged to cleat from rear crossbar w/Spinlock cam cleats; Custom ACK anchor trolley system;


Last edited by Fireseid on Tue Aug 09, 2011 11:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 11:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 12:32 am
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Location: New Jersey, USA
So I went ahead and did it...

Exchanged the standard sized Spinlock for a micro compatible one I found elsewhere... and by "one" I mean one. Had to put a second on order (hopefully Thursday). Only issue with these is the max line diameter on the smaller cleats is 1/4", which is fine for the furling line, but the mainsail line will need replacing.
Gives me an excuse to replace my fraying lines anyway.
I also purchased another micro cheek block.

The next step was tapping the rear crossbar to accept another micro cam cleat.
DO NOT do this unless you have access to a proper drill press and tap set.

From there I went about mounting the new cheek block. I interlaced it with the existing one and angled it upward to prevent rubbing the line as the line exits the cheek at a sharp angle.

Hobie should be doing this from the start - It gives you the option of rigging the TI for easy line handling & sailing from either seat. One added cheek block and cam cleat is all it takes. I'm actually surprised at the simplicity that it hasn't been done sooner.

Ran it through a few times, and aside for rubbing slightly on the front side handle, it runs smooth as silk and the Spinlock cleats are worth the upgrade. It has a very positive action to it and doesn't feel as rough as the Harkens do. As soon as the other one comes in, I will be replacing all my lines with 1/4" and running only Spinlocks for my sailing lines.
I've already designated the furling line cleat over to the other side up front to be used as an anchor line cleat to be used with my new anchor trolley.

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_________________
- Fireseid

Running a 2010 Tandem Island transported on a modified Yakima Rack & Roll.

Modifications: Torqueedo Hobie eVolve v2; Furling line rigged to cleat from rear crossbar w/Spinlock cam cleats; Custom ACK anchor trolley system;


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 11:17 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 2:31 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Houston, Texas
Do you have any problems with the furling line jamming up under the spool at the mast base when reefing? Reason I ask is because with your design, the furling line no longer feeds onto the spool at the same level as the spool.

Over the last two weeks, I've been designing a rear-seat furling system nearly identical to yours, and even considered using the forward mainsheet cheek block in it's original location just as you did. (Great minds... 8) ) However, I want to include an upright block to raise the furling line to the level of the spool so it is not likely to jam under the spool.

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RC
Houston, TX.
2010 Golden Papaya TI, "Trifurcatus"
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 12:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 12:32 am
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Location: New Jersey, USA
Right on the money!! Tested it out last night and it jammed up. Also, the 1/4" line for the furling line is too much for the spindle with the extra footage. I did rig up something else that seems to be working for now though. I will take pics when I have a moment. I may add yet another cheek block to smooth things out.

_________________
- Fireseid

Running a 2010 Tandem Island transported on a modified Yakima Rack & Roll.

Modifications: Torqueedo Hobie eVolve v2; Furling line rigged to cleat from rear crossbar w/Spinlock cam cleats; Custom ACK anchor trolley system;


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