Hobie Cat Forums

Both of ours have loose seals, and they're 2008 AI's, not tandems.

I'll try the superglue.

Hobie sent me a replacement Trim Loc gasket for my TI. Thank you, Hobie.

Has anyone tried pipe insulation? See http://www.sit-on-topkayaking.com/Articles/Instruction/LargeHatches.html. With pipe insulation, we wouldn't have to worry about the seal peeling off.

Could this be an even better solution than Trim Loc?

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Marc K
2010 Hobie Tandem Island
Boynton Beach, FL

The TI's front hatch's gaskets, both on the hatch rim and on the cover, peeled off again. This is the second set of Hobie supplied gaskets to fail in less than 2 years.



When placing items in the boat, I am very careful to not allow them to touch the rubber gasket. Therefore, I am not so quick to write this off as "user error".

In my experience, 10 months is the lifetime of these gaskets. Is there a better solution that could last a bit longer?

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Marc K
2010 Hobie Tandem Island
Boynton Beach, FL

We are moving to a new trim loc style. It is molded as one piece, so no more glue bond. Should be coming on newer boats soon, then available as parts after that.

Same part number will be used.

We are also modifying the AI hatch flange, so the gasket will be on a vertical lip rather than horizontal... larger opening, less chance of damaging the gasket when loading stuff into the hull.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA

I created a new part number for the new version Trim Loc due to the fact that we will have both styles for awhile.

New version will be only on AI and TI. All other models will use the older style until inventory is depleted.

71301001 TRIM-LOC SEAL (TOP MOLDED)

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA

That's almost how long the seal lasted on my wife's 2011 AI so this is not a TI exclusive problem.
Why have the older seals still in the supply system if they are so prone to failure that a redesign was required.
Plus I may jinx myself but my 2010 has yet to fail... must have been a bum batch of seals from the supplier.

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They were not "re-designed", we are using a different material. The material is an improvement. I would not say the original material is defective. It has been the standard since the early 90's when used on a 21 foot catamaran model.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA

FWIW, my seal lasted 2 months before splitting. I used Loctite 424 but haven't had the boat on the water much since. I'm sure I never pulled on it or brushed it much since everything that went in there was small.

Glad to hear there is a better replacement. Matt, can you let us know when it is available and the P/N we should specify? Thank you.

Available now.

Fyi... as previously mentioned... we changed the flange design on the AI this year. Now uses the same trim loc on hatch lid and hull flange. There is no "new" trim loc for the older flange (gasket side glued). You could (VERY CAREFULLY) modify an older hull flange (horizontal) to the current vertical flange to make use of the new part on the hull. Otherwise... the new part would only fit the hatch lid.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA

Look forward to pictures.

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"You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."
- Ayn Rand

0kay, I have a 2011 model TI. Just got it in December, so I would assume it has whatever new kind of trim or seal is current production?

Anyhow, today I opened the front hatch ( which we rarely use) to put a couple life jackets in and the rubber gasket that is glued to the lower plastic gasket that is attached to the hull fell out.

So....what should I use to glue it back? I tried black RTV ( silicone adhesive) and it doesn't seem to me like that is going to stick all that well.

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Island life in the Devil's Triangle:
http://2gringos.blogspot.com/

as an update, I was unable to find anything that stuck any better with less hassle than cyanolate or whatever it is.

while preparing the hard plastic coaming edge around the hatch I noticed a very fine raised mold seam around it, just about where it would slightly interfere with the soft rubber gasket. The raised ridge would prevent the gasket from a full footprint, flat edge to flat edge.

I took a piece of 220 grit sandpaper, wrapped it around a wooden block, and ran it around that hard plastic surface a few times. It took the little ridge right off. I have to believe this is a better gluing surface.



Just thought I would mention it, if you have to keep glueing these back on. Check the ridge. it might be messing with yer handiwork.

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Island life in the Devil's Triangle:
http://2gringos.blogspot.com/

Crazy Glue - you crazy Gringo.

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"You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."
- Ayn Rand

hey, right after the last hurricane blew thru here I was out clipping the hedges and got the tip of my thumb caught in the pruning shears. Man, talk about a painful kind of cut. Brought tears to my eyes.

I could see that no bandaid or butterfly tape was going to hold this together. So I put an elastic band around my thumb so it would quit bleeding for a moment, and used Crazy Glue to hold the edges of two pretty good cuts together. then I put a bandaid and duct tape on it. It worked!

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Island life in the Devil's Triangle:
http://2gringos.blogspot.com/

What a combo: crazy glue & duct tape. Can't beat'em.

Crazy glue is best for re-gluing the hatch gasket to the flange fitting, but it only last 1.5 to 2 yrs.

Keith

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I sail: S FL, Key Largo, Everglades to Cape Romano, Ft Desoto, Cedar Key

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein