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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 3:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:53 am
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Location: Palm City, Florida
Travt,
I'll be out of town until June 12th, Sunday. However, feel free to call me anytime. I hope our schedules allow a visit - I'd like to meet you too.

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Ezra Appel
Palm City, Florida
2014 Tandem Island


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:32 am 
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Now that I have the trailer, I can confirm that the official Hobie TI trailer (sold from their catalog) is a 200-SUT with the spacings, etc dictated by Hobie. Today I spoke with Trailex and gave feedback concerning the intstructions being inconsistent in TI/AI applicability. Also, told them that the unprotected rear extrusion is simply a bad design (I ordered another roller for it on same call). In my opinion, if Hobie is going to have this trailer in their catalog, I would recommend clear individual instructions for each boat, including the appropriate cradles with the trailer, and either a protective cap/cover, or roller for the rear end of the trailer.

I'm still not sure why an AI needs no front roller but does need a rear roller, and the TI needs not rear but does need a front????

Edit... with the proper mods, the base trailer design is really cool. Very strong and light.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:30 am
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Location: Newark DE & Miramar FL
Here's our TI on the Hobie [Trailex] trailer. It was assembled [at no extra charge] by the local Hobie dealer through whom we ordered it when we purchased our leftover 2010 TI.

Image

It may be a little hard to tell at this angle [we were following our son's Suburban], but the central extrusion only extends behind the rear trailer crossbar far enough to permit the tail lights to be mounted, so I can't see why a rear roller would be needed. A front roller is important, however, as it gives you a place to tie the forward part of the TI down tight to the trailer. Otherwise, there is a lot of flex in the aluminum frame and the bow of the TI will be bouncing up & down.

Image

The orange "wands" mounted to the ends of the rear trailer crossbar not only make it more visible in traffic, they are essential if you want to be able to see where the TI is while backing up - at least in something as tall as the Suburban. Even behind our Grand Cherokee, the TI is nearly invisible. The "wands" are intended to be mounted on the ends of a snow plow -- our local boat trailer parts store [in Delaware] sells plow equipment also.

One important note -- if you want a smooth towing experience -- have the wheels spin balanced! Our new little unit vibrated quite annoyingly at Interstate speeds. When called, Trailex dismissed the idea of wheel imbalance being the culprit "Nobody balances those wheels, they are too small to be a problem"... instead they suggested improper tire inflation or a non-square assembly of the trailer. Well, we found a little gas station that could balance the wheels [which, in fact, are too small to be balanced by the equipment at a high-tech tire store], and Voilà - vibration cured. :P Our subsequent 1200-mile tow to south Florida was smooth as silk.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:10 am 
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Good info, bluehen. I am going to find something like those vertical indicators. Is that a towel or something between the hull and the amas? Is that to prevent chaffing between them? How is that working?

That dealer is awesome for doing that! It wasn't terribly hard, but its pretty time consuming with 40 or so steps.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 2:27 pm 
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Location: Newark DE & Miramar FL
I just determined that Eastern Marine sells their snow plow items on line [why should that surprise me?]
I got the 48" variety http://www.easternmarine.com/Snow-Plow-Accessories/ but there are shorter ones available also.

As for the ama towels - good catch. Yes, they are beach towels wrapped around the amas to prevent abrasion against the hull while trailering -- work great! They are positioned so that the front part of the towel is sitting on the molded TI cradle, and is also secured by the ratchet strap that I have running over the top from crossbar-end to crossbar-end, as well as being pinched between the ama and the hull, of course [there's another strap at the rear crossbar - but no towel there]. So far, they have held up to brief Florida Turnpike speeds without any problem.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:26 pm 
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Location: tampa, fl
I have noticed most folks getting a trailer looking at the Hobie cradles or making something that appears the same. Why not use some long 2 X 4 or such in the same fashion as a conventional boat on a trailer would use? These could be plastic coated or covered with plastic? Would this deform the hull if the hull was left stored this way? I am thinking the boards would be spaced only 6-8" apart for the bulge in the center of the hull looking down its length.

Just wondering.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 4:18 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
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Location: South Florida
bosab wrote:
I have noticed most folks getting a trailer looking at the Hobie cradles or making something that appears the same. Why not use some long 2 X 4 or such in the same fashion as a conventional boat on a trailer would use? These could be plastic coated or covered with plastic? Would this deform the hull if the hull was left stored this way? I am thinking the boards would be spaced only 6-8" apart for the bulge in the center of the hull looking down its length.

Just wondering.


I think that is a terrific idea, Charlie. I just may try it myself! My kayak trailer has 2 cross beams. These definitely deform the hull if our boats are left on them any time. To avoid that, I put an adjustable support strap at the transome--that works fine to avoid hull deformation, but also causes some problems in terms of convenience. Your ideal of full length support--like all power boat trailers--seems like an excellent idea.

Keith

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 3:15 pm
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Location: Camas, WA
Update on my trailer:

One thing I like about my design is the 4x8 lattice fully supports the amas:
Image
Image

It did have one serious weakness, it lacked support at the rear end. I had been removing my TI and using the scupper cart for launching. The pressure on the lattice caused it to break under the strain of loading (I dropped it during one of my first uses:
Image

Here's the very simple fix: drilled 3/4" holes in the end of the 4x4's and put a piece of 1/2" metal conduit with a piece of large pool noodle to make a support for loading and unloading.

Image

Yesterday I finally launched the TI directly from the trailer. Worked perfect.

I use three 1" straps to hold it to the trailer, really works great.

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iHop

Dune TI - 6/4/2011
Camas, WA


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:26 am 
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iHop,

Nice tweaks. Uncertain if you are launching in saltwater, but want to caution you about your trailer in that environment. Saltwater dunk would probably make a quick meal of it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:06 am 
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Location: Camas, WA
Thanks for the warning. Are you concerned about the frame or bearings?

So far I'm only sailing in fresh water and not submerging the hubs.

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iHop

Dune TI - 6/4/2011
Camas, WA


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 8:01 am 
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Just worried about saltwater and Harbor Freight trailer. Freshwater should be fine, since this is basically what I rinse my trailers with, after saltwater dunking. Keeping the hubs/axle out of the water is a good practice.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 11:03 pm 
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Location: Camas, WA
Yep, I've been warned about the Harbor Freight and salt water. I figure if I ever start going into the ocean in a year or so I'll be ready to upgrade to a better trailer. Right now I'm happy with it and it was super cheap.

I do dunk the axles when I launch, I haven't pulled the bearings in the 3 months I've had it, probably time to take it apart and check.

I'm thinking about putting some Bearing Buddies on it but someone told me they may not be helpful. Any opinions?

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iHop

Dune TI - 6/4/2011
Camas, WA


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 1:02 pm 
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"Bearing Protectors are an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub. These protectors are easy to install and will keep water and dirt out of your hubs and bearings, as well as prevent corrosion and pitting on your bearings."

Living in a saltwater environment, I use them. I usually fill them with grease, which keeps the water away from the bearings. Having past unpleasant experiences with bearings at a road side, I now provide my bearings with lots of TLC in the more comfortable home/driveway setting. "Pain brings wisdom".

One of many youtube bearing maintenance videos.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9WdVdaLVQE

I actually force the grease into the bearings, placing the bearing in the palm of one hand, and pushing grease in with the other hand, until it comes through the bearings. There are bearing grease packers, but I usually loose tools that I do not use more than once or twice per year and are full of grease.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 1:25 am 
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Location: Camas, WA
Thanks, I've got my bearing protectors sitting ready to install. Thinking I may order an extra set for emergencies.

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iHop

Dune TI - 6/4/2011
Camas, WA


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 8:31 pm 
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Hi guys

I own a TI and Trailex 200: I found the trailer assembling instructions a bit confusing...

What's the distance between the cradles and the distance of the roller from the front cradle?

I assume that all TIs are the same (more or less) so why couldn't Hobie or Trailex be more specific, especially if you consider that boat and trailer do not come for free?

I understand from what Mr Miller wrote in another thread that the cradles should be 67" apart for a glove fit, but the rear cradle is far from a glove fit, if we install both cradles on the rear part of the trailer tongue...

Maybe I'm just a bit picky, but I want to make sure that I'm not wrecking 5000 dollars of yellow plastic just for the f of it. :mrgreen:

Thanks guys

every opinion is welcome

Ed


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