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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:34 am 
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Tom
I have no clue what those block are for but they are going to be removed. I have to agree that simple is better. I want to put this cat back to as close to original as I can. Since I am painting the hulls, it will be easy to take off stuff that was added and patch correctly. Thanks
Kenny


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 12:43 pm 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
Kenny,
Do those wooden add on pieces control your main traveler?I tried a similar wooden proto type set up for my dagger boards to set the depth within a range instead of up or down.I am sure that idea developed after several beers....maybe like the previous owner installed on your new ride. Keep on the track extensions installed on your aft traveler track for your main and to see how it works. :D
Bill 404 21SE 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 1:27 pm 
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I thought the same thing about those being for the main traveler but can't figure out hoe that could be a good place for it. I would think towards the rear would be best. Do you have a picture of yours set up?
Thanks
Kenny


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 2:18 pm 
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They might also be for a spinnaker ?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 5:03 am 
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I found an old picture of the boat on the net and it looks like he had thos blocks to control the self tacking jib. Anyway, took everything off the hull including the cleats and started patching the hulls getting ready for paint. I had to crack up that the hulls where filled with so much foam it was like a puzzle getting them out. the picture was only of one side:

Image


Question:
What is the dark gray stripe on the bottom of the hull? Looks much tougher than the gelcoat:
Image


I looked at thsi before, but I think putting the hobie on the trailer with the straps around the crossmembers works better that squezing the hulls. Is this ok?


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L


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 5:10 am 
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Now I have to let the west sytems Six 10 harden all the way and start sanding. This stuff works really well and I am impresses. It stays where you put it and if you cant block the back side of a hole to cover it, just put it on top, let it gell, then slightly harden, then push it down gently and it stays where you put it. I had to laugh as the original owner installed the cleats on the front and back of the boat using drywall screws and anchors....... ANyway here is it before sanding.

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 7:52 am 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
Kenny,
When you reinstall the trampoline track on to the deck,be sure to use those rivet casings to insure a watertight seal.They are about a dollar each but worth it.I had to add a few rivets in that track close to each end to reinforce what appeared to be a stress area.So I added some rivets in between the existing rivet localizations when I tighten down that track.It became very tight to the deck once reinstalled.Get a strong rivet gun to set those rivets down tight and use the right rivets too.Good rivet guns are expensive but you will get what you pay for there.
I keep a very tight tramp by using both 1/4" line and shock cord.My original 1989 Hobie trampoline is still great shape because on good maintenance practices and I always cover my boat.

Welcome to Boat Maintenance and Detailing 101 Class. :lol:

When you are ready to do a wing socket sleeve repair job you need enroll in a more advanced level class :lol:

Good Luck,Bill 404 21SE

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 10:07 am 
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Yeah bet that would be more advanced. Does your hobie have those gray strips on the bottom?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 5:14 pm 
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Location: Lake Gaston, NC
The styrofoam is in all of them. It's there so the boat won't sink. That stripe on the bottom was added later, probably either to prevent wear or to cover it up.

Straps around crossbars are fine.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 6:06 pm 
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Wish I knew what they where made out of. Those strips are almost steel tough and very thin. Whoever applied them did a good job.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 7:08 pm 
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Last question for tonight.

What is the tang on the comptip for? I think it's called the reacher tang.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 12:16 pm 
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Location: Lake Gaston, NC
Tang on comptip is where you run the spinnaker up to.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 4:08 pm 
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Thanks Tom!

Ok, desiign work is complete. Hulls are going to be black, top deck white using interlux brightside one part poly. Name on the side will be Gray Goose using the gray goose vodka logo in gray, as well as the hobie logos and a much smaller 56 on the bow. Should all Mach they gray pentax sails that have been ordered. I am planning on putting the registration numbers on the boom instead of the hulls. Anyone do this? Sanding starts tomorrow!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 6:47 pm 
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This is what my hulls look like.I have not needed a bottom job yet. :D
Bill 404 21SE

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 6:18 am 
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Location: North Bend, WA
yellowskeeter wrote:
I am planning on putting the registration numbers on the boom instead of the hulls. Anyone do this?


I placed my registration number and annual registration decal on the boom as this is where I saw faint outlines of the number. I have not had any issues yet....but of course this is the same as trailering full width. :D


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