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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2011 2:59 pm 
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Bill
You tow your hobie fully extended correct ? Are your centers on your rolers for your trailer bunks the same front and back? Can you give me the measurement center roller to center roller? I am doing some trailer work and want to get it perfect. Is your trailer tandem or single axle?

I have the hulls pulled apart and hull #1 is in my garage getting prepped for paint. Just finished 2nd sanding and getting ready to possibly prime tomorrow. I want to paint first hull next week.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 5:16 pm 
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1st hull cleaned, sanded and first coat of primer.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 5:54 am 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
Kenny,
I have a very over built trailer for my 21SE.
Single axle,
3400 lbs. rated,
205/75 14" tires
and surge brakes
99" center to center on my rollers,you need to use double rollers for the back rollers and saddles for the front where the weight actually is.
My trailer width is 10' 3 /12" ... :o
watch out for the baskets at toll booths and if in doubt,drive faster :lol:
Oh and those orange cones are really targets and not lane markers :lol:
Bill 404 21SE

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Bill 404 21SE
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:46 am 
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Thanks for the info Bill! And you are correct on the cones! I actually have to drive a couple different roads with this thing as some of these old country roads will make you pucker!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:27 am 
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Bill
Where did you find hull cradles for the 21se? do you have a pic of your trailer set up?
Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:01 pm 
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I have double 12" rollers on the back that pivot, and on the front, wide flat pads (that also pivot) that allow room for telescoping the boat in and out. The trailer crossbars are telescopic, although I rarely telescoped the boat. A semi-truck load bar with lever handle jacks (phttp://www.uline.com/BL_3888/Load-Bars ... 5QodNWRl5g) puts enough pressure hull to hull to allow getting the tapered bolts in and out without fumbling with the tramp.

On the front I have an A-frame that pivots on the front crossbar to act as a gin-pole to pull the mast up. I use a couple of trap wires to pull the mast up, leaving the forestay free to attach and unattach. Clip a carabiner onto the trap wires, and a winch on the front mast stand pulls the mast up. It's still a two person job with this setup, as one person is needed on the tramp to keep the mast from swinging about as it goes up. Requires very little effort though, as the mast rolls back into position on the rear mast carrier urethane bow roller. It easily puts enough tension on the rig to not have to worry about adjusting the shrouds with the mainsheet and traveler as is normally done. You just leave the rigging like you want it, and only attach, and unattach, the forestay to the adjuster in the furler. Furled jib stays on in furled position, and is trailered and stored with a pvc pipe slipped over it. The a-frame travels with the peak resting against the front mast carrier, and has the right length line permanently attached so it's easy to clip onto the trap wires.

The trailer also has an upper modular system for double decking another 21, Tandem axles, and is hot dip galvanized. The rear mast carrier easily detaches and has a horizontal carrier for after the mast is up-also have a double front and rear mast carrier that can be swapped out when needed.

I built this trailer in 1988. It went all over the country during the Prosail circuit, and is still as good as the day I put it together when I got all the parts back from the galvanizing plant.

If I had it to do over again, I can't think of anything I would change on it. With this setup, rigging the 21 doesn't take any more time to amount to anything than rigging a 16.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:46 pm 
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1st coat completed.......

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:08 pm 
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Completed the second coat this morning and I am very impressed how well it looks considering my lack of ability. Now have to go get the 2nd hull and start the process over again. What do you use on the anodized aluminum to make it look better without painting?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:35 am 
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finished the first hull

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 6:24 am 
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Location: North Bend, WA
Wow that looks great!!! I can't wait to see the final assembled boat! We have way too many rocks in the northwest that the paint would last one season!

Use Penetrol for your black anodized aluminum. You can find at any hardware store.

Keep posting the pictures.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 7:59 am 
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Perfect thanks! I will try the penetrol.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:24 am 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
I use Penetrol on my boat too.Very nice looking hulls Kenny! :D
Bill 404 21SE

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:39 am 
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Good Thread
I noticed on one of the first pictures of the sails it looked like that main had reef points in it. Does anybody reef their main? How does that work out? I singlehand a lot so reducing sail area sounds appealling.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 1:19 pm 
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You will have to wait for one of the experts to chime in as you just lost me on that one :oops: I don't know any of the terminology and learning as I go. I do know that the boat was set up to sail solo.

As I was thinking about penetrol, I wonder what one of those car wrap graphic places would charge to wrap the mast with a carbon fiber looking vynil? I think that and the crossbars would look really trick that way. With my budget though, penetrol it will be!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 9:57 am 
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Decided to change the color of the deck from white to steel gray since hulls where looking a little to orca. Color not available locally so will have to wait to next week to arrive


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