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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 1:19 pm 
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Location: Greenville SC
Karl Brogger wrote:
Harry Murphey wrote:
PS: I run a "quiet" boat ... no ratchets .... I don't want the boat next to me on the starting line to "hear" me as I "pull" the trigger" and sheet in ...


:shock:
That is quite possibly the absolute dumbest thing I've ever heard. Like its some giant secret the race is starting? :lol:


Everyone knows the race is starting. Not everyone knows when to sheet in and cross the start at exactly the right time. Clicks are easy to here and if your a novice like me, its easy to tell when the more experienced racers are making ajustments and copy them.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 3:11 pm 
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Location: SE PA/ Chesapeak Bay
Karl,

You come and race in Div11 ..... see how you fare ... There are alot of very talented and good sailors here .... some are even Past National Champions ... (not me of course) .... so when I'm on the "Starting Line" I use all my senses ... including my ears ..... and I listen for ratchets "clicking" .... if I hear you above me sheeting in (w/ my back to you ) I know were you are ... I JUST MAY HEAD YOU UP ... AND UP .... AND UP ... and force you to dump your wind/sheets ... or over the line ....

Then I'll bear off .... easing my sheets quickly .... (the one's w/o the ratchets on to slow them down as the line feeds out) ..... leaving you stalled on the line ... accelerating and then w/ speed heading "up" and away from the line ....

.... a few clicks can tell me alot ....

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H-18 mag/ #9458
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 4:04 pm 
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That's a feeble argument at best there Harry. You are giving up an advantageous tool for a perceived advantage. Those clicks aren't giving away anything that isn't plain as day anyway. Your "silent running" isn't a tactic with any value. It would not change anything I would do with an attack on my spot on the line.

Why don't you shoot Ashby, or Bundock, or Goodall, or Daniel, or Struble, or Mischa, an email and ask them what they do? I'd bet the farm I know the answer to that one.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:44 pm 
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Location: SE PA/ Chesapeak Bay
Karl

What "advantageous tool" am I giving up ????

I have enough arm strength that 99% of the time I do not need the ratchets to be engauged ... and for that 1% of the time I would need the ratchets engauged, it's blowing so hard that I'm "on the beach" consuming a beverage of my choice .... saving my boat from being thrashed/beat-up .... and me also ...

(From San Fransico Det Harry Callahan: "A man must know his limitations ...")

I stated in a earlier post ... "it's all about forearm strength" ... I also mentioned that for "years" that as I commuted/drove (+1hr) each way every day that I would have my "squeeze/grip" strengthener w/ me ... now I would do 100 reps ... 200 reps ... 300reps .... 500 reps per hand ..... so I quess it worked ..... cause .... (most of the time) .... I DON'T NEED NO STINKEN' RACHETS .......

So ... you can listen .... but you'll have to turn around to SEE me coming ..... and that means your looking at me and not "the line" ... your sails ... the signal flags, etc .... (any advantage I can turn into a 1/2 boatlength lead off the "line" ... that just maybe the difference for the race ..... )

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H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 3:18 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
Harry Murphey wrote:
PS: I run a "quiet" boat ...



Somehow I have a hard time believing that there is ever much "quiet" on Harry's boat.... :D :D

sm


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:27 pm 
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Handheld without its table, it is incredibly difficult. Black, Low Block, ratchet lever is opened and closed, if it does not work, repair or replace the pieces.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:51 pm 
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A comment on the jib blocks and the cleats, my hobie 18 from the wings is impossible to uncleat while on the fly. I am going to look at mine tonight and see if I can reverse the cleats release from the bottom

Marty
Hobie 18SX


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:11 pm 
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Hi Marty,

To "flip" the camcleats over and make them so there release by pulling "up" ....

You'll just need some longer SS "Pan Hd" Machine Screws, flat washers and nuts (Nyloc's work best). The "centers" of either side of the camcleats do not need to rotate/spin ... I think I installed a flat washer between the camcleat and the mounting point on the jib block .... just be careful of not "over-tightening" the machine screws .... you'll need to leave the SS Mounting Plate "under", ie: on the bottom, of the camcleat for support ...

It's a very easy modification actually .....

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Fleet 54 Div 11


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 6:06 am 
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Thanks for that tip Harry. My wife and others crewing for me always have a problem releasing the jib sheets from the wings.

Do you run them that way without the wings? (for racing)

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:17 am 
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Yes ....

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 am 
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Location: Czech Republic / SB / Lipno
Hi all. I have on my HC18 6:1 mainsheet system and I am interest for stronger 7:1 or 8:1 too
photo of my 6:1 system.
I have 12mm line, but this blocks are for 10mm line so I change it soon.
Is good idea to use 40mm (price) Carbo Harken triple block or is neccesery to use 57mm?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 5:41 am 
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Ya Brian, that was going to be my question, what line is that you're running? I had some real thick, but soft double braid in there when I got the rig (felt nice in my hands for sure), and just upgraded to real sheet (Conception by Yale, I think) at less diameter (used to be like 10mm, now 3/8 or 8mm I think). Big difference in sheeting.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:59 am 
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Location: Naples, FL
I am looking into a new main sheet system and thought I would put it here instead of making a new thread. I currently have the original Seaway block that came with the boat and it still has the original cleats! Now the cleats are the only thing that accutaly giving me a problem right not but would rather go and bit the bullet and get the whole system (I know I need it) rather than just replace the cleats.

I've read every post I could find in the Hobie 18 / 18SX category to try and help me decide but I still have a few questions.

1st - is there any advantage to having the single ratchet block under the triple stack vs. the low profile 7:1 carbo ratchmatic system that Harken offers? (I has magnum wings for the boat)

2nd - (for Harry) the Lewmars do look nice but don't see a 60mm 7:1 system. At least not in the racing block series. I could do it by attaching a single ratchet block (I think it's called a purchase) with cleat to the bottom of a triple.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 11:49 am 
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FunkyWalker wrote:
1st - is there any advantage to having the single ratchet block under the triple stack vs. the low profile 7:1 carbo ratchmatic system that Harken offers? (I has magnum wings for the boat)


No advantage other than potential cost savings. I think he stacked systems are slightly cheaper. The stacked lower blocks have the potential to swivel independently which can lead to the lines twisting. However I've been using a stacked system for probably about 10 years now without any significant issues. I did end up tieing my upper block (boom block) so that it can only rotate about 90 deg in eiher direction and that virtually eliminated all twisting issues.

The low profile lower blocks really aren't required on the 18 because we don't rake back far enough that going block-to-block is an issue, so either system works just fine on the 18.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 1:08 pm 
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Dear Mr FunkyWalker

To answer your questions .... Mr SRM's reply was "spot on", the 7X1 mainsheet stack allows the stack to rotate so that wherever one sheeting from, the mainsheet stack is able to rotate so that the mainsheet has a nice straight entry into the camcleat/bottom blocks ...

As to which Lewmar Blocks I am currently using I will list ... please note that Harken "Carbo" Blocks would work equally well ... they just were not availible at the time I purchased my Lewmars as they were introduced the following year ....

Top/Boom Block: Lewmar Model#1656 (Triple w/ Becket)
Bottom Block(s): Lewmar Model#1668 (Triple Ratchet w/Camcleat) and a Lewmar Model#1677 (Web Block)

Now, a couple points ....

1) You can also use a Lewmar Model#1670 (Triple Ratchet w/ Becket & Camcleat) for the bottom block, but it is $50.00 more expensive then the #1668 model.
2) To attach the fourth block on the bottom to make the mainsheet stack a 7X1, if you purchase the #1670 then just attach the #1677 Model block at the becket ... but ... there is a cheaper/better solution in IMHO .... purchase the Lewmar Model#1668 and a "Eyestrap"/"Fairlead" that can be mounted to the camcleat bracket opposing the camcleat (just take the two Nyloc Nuts off to install) ... so the Camcleat is facing down and the Eyestrap is facing upwards ... Ok? Now, tie the #1677 block to the Eyestrap using a short piece of 1/8" Spectra/Vectra. Please note that I tie this block so that it is oriented ACROSS the triple blocks (ie: 90*/ orthoginal/perpendicular) ... Ok? By using the Model#1668/Model#1677 you save yourself approximently $50.00 (2-3 cs of beer) ... and you end up w/ a shorter stack hieght!!!

Now to string/thread this system ...

First go through the camcleat/center pulley on the bottom block .... up to the center pulley on the boom block (going back to front over the top) .... go down to the left side bottom pulley (going from front to back underneath) ... back up to the left top pulley on the boom block (going from back to front over the top ... NOW ... go down to the Model #1677 tied to the eyestrap passing through that block from left to right .... continue up to the right top pulley on the boom block passing from front to back .... now down to the right side pulley on the bottom block (going back to front ... the last step is to continue up and tie-off to the boom block's becket ....

There you go .... a 7X1 system .... that will feed properly w/ no crosses (that touch each other). I'm using 5/16" Yale Conception Line currently as it does run slightly large and is plenty strong enough ....

If you wish a 8X1 Mainsheet Stack order the Lewmar Model#1670 (Triple w/ Camcleat&Becket) and Harkin makes a Harken Big Block (3") Quad Block to be used for the Boom Block ... one more loop around and tie-off to the Becket on the #1670

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H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11


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