Look online for the H14 tuning guide by former world champ Bob Curry.
This was also published in the Hobie Class Magazine (free on the internet, hardcopy if you're a Hobie Class member) called the Hobie Hotline... an article on tuning the H14.
The article discusses in detail: mast rake, rudder rake, forestay and shroud tension, mast rotation, downhaul, etc.
Oh yeah, the article is also on the beachcats website:http://www.thebeachcats.com/news/84/hob ... ing-guide/
Mast rake is good for going upwind, but moving the mast back moves the sail back, which puts more effort over the back of the boat, so that loads up the rudders w/weather helm. To counteract that, you bring the rudders in closer (mast back, rudders forward)... the rudders are adjusted to hang more under the hulls rather than behind. An inch here makes a lot of difference in helm feel.
Mast rotation, it will rotate naturally. In the front crossbar mast step are two 'stops' which prevent the mast from rotating beyoned them. See the referenced article earlier. Sailshape, well going upwind when you want the main more flat, you can rotate the mast less, so the mast is 'in-line' w/the luff of the sail, and the air has a smooth transition. Likewise when off the wind and the main is out and full, you can rotate the mast so it's STILL aligned w/the luff and there is still a smooth transition from the wind, to smooth around the mast, and into the sail.
Personally, I love the ability to furl the jib. Likewise when not sailing and the boat is on the beach, it's one less thing to mess with... just unfurl and go. Yes, you lose the ability to have battens and jib tension. Opportunity cost.
My h14T is also an '85, in great shape. Check out bringing back the hulls to original blue here:http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=43066