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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 4:44 am 
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Location: Fairfax, CA USA
can you replace it?
I've got a 2007 mast, with the "outtie" pin, but while i am rebuilding my boat, thought i could swap to the "innie" version, and replace the mast cups...


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 11:10 am 
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The caps are held together with epoxy - might not be a simple removal project.. the second issue is that the mast collar (that locks into the center cross bar) is at a different height on the new style - so there would be some work to do, and I'm not even 100% sure its even possible - the alternative is to purchase a complete new mast (along with the new mast base receiver) But that's pricey...


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 4:41 pm 
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The :twisted: is in the details, eh?

Thanks JB. I seriously considered converting my mast this way when I swapped my 2007 for 2011 hull. Seemed it would not be that big a deal to put the female base on the older mast but I did not realize the height would vary that much.

Also, if the pinned base and the aluminum reinforcement collar are glued in place, this would be a very risky mod.

I actually tried to use the 2007 mast on a 2010 hull by removing the 2010's metal base plate, hoping the receiver holes would be the same. Did not work. it was too loose down there.

Steve - sad to say, if you want the option of newer TI style crossbars and mast cups, you'll need to pay for a new mast as well. ($900?). Adds up fast. And I think you'll like the hybrid, if you go that route like I did.

JB - are you referring to the height/alignment of the furling ring - or the mast collar?

BTW, does anyone have full shots of these two mast bases for comparison? (KBob, do you have both these models in your flotilla?)

Image 2007 pinned base
Image 2007 mast base w metal collar

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Last edited by NOHUHU on Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:07 pm 
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Yep, I have both style masts and cups. Part of the reason all my boats are color coded, so the right mast comes with the right hull.

I did change one mast and cup for the newer style a couple of years ago. It was about $400 for the new mast and cup ($425 for the mast now in the 2010 catalog).

Both work just as well as the other as long as the early masts have the collar mod.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 7:46 pm 
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NOHUHU wrote:
The :twisted: is in the details, eh?
I actually tried to use the 2007 mast on a 2010 hull by removing the 2010's metal base plate, hoping the receiver holes would be the same. Did not work. it was too loose down there.

Dude, 8) is there anything you haven't tried? You are seriously the leader of renegade development and testing.
Hobie needs to put you and Batman on their official team by contributing parts.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 12:04 am 
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Well, when you are stuck "out on a rock", you learn to make things up as you go.

One thing I am pretty sure I will never try - tying 2 Hobies together as a double hull sailing yak. :lol:

Oh wait! It would be sooo easy to do, (with benches between them to stand on),...

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 6:59 am 
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You're right. Those fellows in Texas already did the double hull with both "main" sails under way. Too bad they didn't have a bat bench in the middle.

"The rock" :roll: I thought Hobie owners were immune to island fever.

Not mast end cap but a top thought. Would the top half of an TI mast fit on an AI base? Reason: raise the AI sail so not always getting wacked in the head during a turn or passenger on the tramp a face full of sail.

For the nay sayers, yes already know about arm, increased leverage, and more force applied to mast cup, receiver, and stress on the mounting hardware.

This is so I can be even more inattentive on a light wind day.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 10:09 am 
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Interesting thought. I would imagine raising the full sail a couple feet would cause the mast to bend like crazy and bury the Amas or nose more. It might be fun to watch.

It would be more fun to graft a TI mast and sail on the AI though. Or lengthen rather than raise the AI sail to achieve 25% more sail area.

Let's take Stevo out for a night of strategic drinking and convince him this is a good idea to try. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 10:27 am 
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If I was on island, I'd happily be you D.D. for the post development drive. :lol:

Have thought about TI mast and sail on an AI hull. I believe the TI and AI mast receivers are different. Haven't seen the two side by side but if I recall correctly that is what Matt said.

This is pure speculation but the TI sheet may not be able to be pulled fully aft on certain points of wind since the block on the TI is farther from the mast than on a AI.

Besides I remember posting about this last year before the bat-boat was unveiled. We had much more to say about the akas and amas and little about the sails.

With your kayak sailing club there would be all kinds of mix and match experimentation.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 10:54 am 
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Fly4v wrote:
Have thought about TI mast and sail on an AI hull. I believe the TI and AI mast receivers are different. Haven't seen the two side by side but if I recall correctly that is what Matt said.
No problem. I'll lend Stevo my dremel tool. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 2:58 pm 
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Dremel??? After I burned up my second dremel in 8 months, I jumped over to Proxxon.
Also forgot to prior post that a taller mast would allow a boom.

I think it was for a Hobie Bravo but there is a clamp boom that would be a good basis for adaptation on a taller mast or a shorter person.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 5:12 am 
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thanks for the info Nohuhu.

I have to replace the front aka crossbar, and was wondering if i should just keep going. I do like the old style pinned bars better than the big knuckle things- i like simple.
can't wait to get the new hull, and be back on the water


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