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 Post subject: Leading others astray
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 6:11 pm 
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This is showing some modifications that I have done to an AI over time.

I hope that I can provide some guidance for those seeking to copy these works. Some are reverse engineered and credit will be given.

First up is Dogslife TI bulkhead installed in an AI. This is not water tight because of the up down lines.
Could have used spare rudder line tubes but I was lazy and having it watertight is not that important, just keep the water contained.

I used a 2 x 12 x 24 closed cell foam from Austin Kayak. http://www.austinkayak.com/products/113 ... x-2in.html

Glue used is Goop. Nasty stuff. Lots of fumes. I worked from outside the hull, made a mess but it is sealed along the bottom and not going anywhere.

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When cutting out the three pieces that make up the bulkhead, I used the exterior edge of the foam for the interior vertical seams of the pieces.
That had three of the four surfaces true from the start and I only had to cut one straight edge on the center piece.

A 6" craft saw blade is enough to do the job by hand. Just put the cardboard template on the foam and cut slightly over sized.

For an easy template just print off the photo and adjust the size relative to tape rule shown.

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 6:27 pm 
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Next up is anchor tie points and Hobie's new vertical stow rudder.

Image

Before Hobie came up with the vertical rudder, I had already removed the bungee cord screw end and replaced it with a screw in cleat so I could tie off an 8lb anchor to either side of the stern.
The Hobie cleats are the perfect size for 550 cord.

The rudder uses the original spectra lines and tubes. Each line was pulled out as far as possible, held with vice grips and then tied to the new rudder to keep the aft hatch clear for the Hobie safety gear bucket kit.

No new parts need to be purchased if you have replaced the cleats behind your seat with screw in pad eyes.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 6:56 pm 
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Nothing original on this one. Scotty deck mount kayak light just aft of the rear carrying handle so the bullet block line is clear.

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The Scotty mount is not flush due to slight curvature of the deck. So there is 3m automotive trim tape to fill the space between the mount and the kayak hull.

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en00 ... utput_html

The mount is secured from the bottom up with 1/4" Nylon bolts and nuts. I didn't have a tap and die set so I used a 1/4" Steel bolt to cut the threads in the hull.

The top of the nuts are covered with Goop.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 4:49 am 
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA
This is a picture of my Adventure Island foam bulkhead. You will notice that the rudder cable turning blocks are missing. I moved them further back to make the bulkhead 100% water tight. I used Goop Plumbing Glue to seal any gaps.

Image

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DogsLife
2011 Adventure Island (Little Dog)
2010 Tandem Island (Big Dog: "We keep a leg up on the competition")

http://dogslifeadventures.blogspot.com/


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:23 am 
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Thanks Dog!, Your work is always so clean and professional.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:37 am 
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To lash the drive, I got a Ptec dive leash. The plastic hook would scratch the pad eye so it is tied with a double loop of 550 cord.
With the plastic clip locked, the drive pedal can be held forward by the coiled plastic.

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This allowed the removal of the bungee from the cockpit. Put a piece of pool noodle inside the shock cord end to fill the void.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:49 am 
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Trinomite's Ritchie compass in the starboard cup holder.

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I used the deck mount version. It just drops straight in, no bracket to remove.

http://www.ritchienavigation.com/catalo ... 2F268E72FD

I disassembled the compass to remove the light and wiring.

Ritchie provides a small piece of double sided tape for installation. I used two strips of 3M trim tape cut to shape, holds better.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:21 am 
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The first hiking stick was a non-adjustable floating boat hook from West Marine.

Image

The hard rubber yellow coupler is from a window cleaning kit at Dollar General.
Drilled a hole on the side of the coupler and tied a length of 550 cord.
The threaded end on the boat hook is wrapped in Teflon tape and the coupler screws on.
Just tie the 550 cord to the steering handle.

Problem, over time the coupler was damaging the rubber boot on the steering handle.

Second version is a adjustable window cleaning rod from Ace Hardware with stainless steel and nylon hardware, also from Ace.
Similar in function but not as strong as NOHUHU's T3I universal joint.

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I removed the steering handle and took it to the store and built the universal joint at the counter.

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Parts:
1/4" S.S. bolt
1/4" S.S. nut
1/4" S.S lock nut
2x 1/4" S.S. eye bolt
2x nylon nuts
2x nylon washers
2x S.S. washers
adjustable bar
Surf lease cuff and end

The cuff keeps me tied to the boat when I hike out. This has taken the place of a surf leash that I used to have attached to my upper arm and tied off the the back cross bar.

Edit: removed duplicate photo.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 2:03 pm 
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In the previous photo you can see that I have removed the center splash handles. When I want to really reduce drag I tape over the recess with duct tape.

With the weight of the benches, the scupper cart was a bear to pull over sand so I got a C-tug for the nose.
Image

Image

The only minus are the wheels. They are too large for the anything but the nose hatch.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 2:17 pm 
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Not much of a mod on this one but it answers the question of storage.

I have used foam kayak saddles from the local shop for my ocean and adventure. Here is an example of them on-line.
http://www.austinkayak.com/products/129 ... addle.html

To keep the hull safe from the possibility of deforming due to the additional weight of an AI and the other parts. I got two of the orange "larger" pool noodles and have them lengthwise between the primary and secondary contours on the bottom of the hull.

Image

Everything fits nicely under the Hobie AI cover even with the new rudder.

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 2:39 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
Very nice work on the bulkhead! How hard is it to drain the bow now? Is it catching much water there, compared to the rest of the hull?

The nylon washers on the steering stick really help. If you add another eyebolt to the end of that stick, you'll find it makes a great camera boom as well.

Four wheels must be a big improvement when hauling. I see you added skid plate too.

It appears you like to hike way out so the longer/expandable stick is perfect for that. If you place the benches in the middle you could get away with a shorter one.

I'm glad you highlighted the safety leash! Leashes should be worn by anyone thinking of riding their Hakas and I think I failed to mention that in my posts. I've had a few close calls out there already.

I would not feel secure leashing to that tiller arm though. If you did go over, that thing could tear apart and you could be left behind (or left rudderless when you recover). Leashing to the rear/port Aka is currently my last resort.

That and keeping a death grip on the sheet at all times!! :o

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 3:00 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
How does the C-tug fit the AI hull ?

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'07 Hobie Adventure Island #1
'07 Hobie Adventure Island #2 Golden Papaya AI LadyJane
'06? Hobie Outback SUV


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:20 pm 
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NOHUHU,

To drain the bow need to roll the kayak or use the hand pump. I have a kayak sponge to sop up any leaks. I don't get any water in the nose.
I just resealed the rudder lines. The starboard black cap came off inside the hull and I had about a cup of water. An aft bulkhead would be nice and am working on the where.
Currently, have Hobie's flotation blocks shoved around the scupper tubes as reinforcement and think this is an ideal location for some more foam.

Camera boom is an excellent idea but I don't remove the hiking rod. When in the cockpit, just have the stick in-line with the steering handle and the tube going aft under my arm.

Yes, I like to hike way out. The stick and main sail line, wrapped around my hand, are the only things keeping out of the drink.

Leases are important when solo and a matter of discussion in pairs. There was a debate about them about a year or more ago. I like the heavy duty double swivel longboard lease around the left upper arm. It has kept the adventure from sailing away enough times that I have no doubts.

On the AI, like the wrist cuff on the bar. It works for everything but sitting in the cockpit and standing in-front of the sail. I was worried about it but really trust it, now, and only to a point, I don't sail without wearing a PFD.

The joint is designed to come apart. The first eye bolt, through the steering handle, is loose and spins freely. It is only held with a sliver of a nylon nut.
I shaved the nut down so it fits in the little recess on the bottom of the handle.
The idea is the nut will pull off the S.S. metal bolt if I go overboard. Since the bolt will be pulled out at an angle and not straight up so the kayak will turn fulldeflection. Yes, the bolt will damage the gray rubber on top of the steering handle. The top of my handle is already kind of ratty so I wasn't worried. I also have a spare handle.
I may bend up the handle but will not be left without a rudder. I still have my boat hook with the adapter and 550 cord. I can tie the hook to the steering handle or if the handle comes off tie the hook directly to the rudder. Push/Pull.
Tested once...So its not just good, its good enough.

Besides before Hobie, I never had a rudder on my kayak.


Alan,

The c-tug comes apart. I put the tires in the nose and the rest in the aft hatch under the Hobie first aid kit.

Here is the breakdown.
http://www.c-tug.net/about-c-tug/assembly-2

I don't need the kick stand so I leave that part behind.

I really like the cart. One tire was flat when delivered. I bought some valve extenders and used a hand bike pump. Worked great.
Tried the same on the gray balloon tires and was rewarded with a trip to the gas station to use their compressor. Need a different hand pump that will work with both types of tires.

4 lbs comes quickly on a compressor set for cars so if you have the big gray tires be careful.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:47 pm 
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Skip plate on the nose. Yes, sorry, forgot about that in the last post.
I run a course of clear packing tape or in this case it was yellow duck tape on the bottom of the nose to reduce scratches during beaching, car topping, or if you drop the front and are using only one cart. :oops:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:04 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
Fly4v wrote:
Alan,

The c-tug comes apart. I put the tires in the nose and the rest in the aft hatch under the Hobie first aid kit.

Here is the breakdown.
http://www.c-tug.net/about-c-tug/assembly-2

I don't need the kick stand so I leave that part behind.

I really like the cart. One tire was flat when delivered. I bought some valve extenders and used a hand bike pump. Worked great.
Tried the same on the gray balloon tires and was rewarded with a trip to the gas station to use their compressor. Need a different hand pump that will work with both types of tires.

4 lbs comes quickly on a compressor set for cars so if you have the big gray tires be careful.




I was more curious how the C-tug supports "fit" the bottom of the AI hull, i.e., would it be usable for a fully rigged AI setup ?

I've got the one pictured below with the baloon tires on it and really dont like how it supports the hull (if I leave the AI hull alone on it for any length of time I get deformation) - plus it won't even fit in the front hatch with the wheels off. I can't use a scupper cart as one of my holes was taken out of comission. I usually leave the cart behind but was "stranded" earlier this season requiring my wife to take a ferry ride in the truck to come get me, when If I had a cart on board I could have "tugged" it onto the ferry myself.

Image

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'07 Hobie Adventure Island #1
'07 Hobie Adventure Island #2 Golden Papaya AI LadyJane
'06? Hobie Outback SUV


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