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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 1:22 pm 
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Location: Delaware Coast
I just finished installing the new Twist Lock Seat Pegs in my 2011 TI.

I spent 30 seconds or less trimming down the threads on each "Screw in Seat Plug" with my belt sander. I left enough of the thread on them that they were snug in the hole, then glued them in. No need to worry about installation depth as inserting the plugs until they bottom out works fine.

I used DAP Auto/Marine Sealant (100% silicon) because I had it on hand and its easy to remove if it fails. If my "glue" job does fail, I will try Marine Goop that I already have on hand... if that fails, I will follow Roadrunnder's advice and use 3M Scotchweld DP 8010 or Loctite 3030. Hopefully, it won't come to that as those products cost more than the parts needed for this conversion :)

mmiller wrote:
I like the idea of removing threads and gluing the part into the boat. That should take care of our install concerns... now, what glue and how much sanding?

Parts

Twist Lock seat pegs...

81276201 TWIST LOCK SEAT ADAPTER KIT ($7.50 USD / 11-2011)
CONVERTS OLDER SEATS TO FIT A TWIST LOCK HULL
Includes 2 of each 81277001 Handle, 81245001 Roll Pin, 81276001 Twist Lock

81275001 SEAT PLUG SCREW-IN ($1.50 USD / 11-2011)
Requires 4 per seat area.


Roadrunner wrote:

The '12 models have a positive lock up system that works well. Unfortunately it is not a retrofit item. :(
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Last edited by Herbaldew on Wed Dec 21, 2011 4:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:06 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Sounds like a great solution Herbaldew. 8)
How are they holding so far?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:48 pm 
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You spurred me to go give them a test tug beings the silicon has had 48 hours to cure - 3 of the 4 I pulled right out :(

I'm going to clean them up and try Goop this time.

Wish me luck. Even though winter starts here tomorrow, the wife wants to go out Sunday, I better have the boat ready!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 3:30 pm 
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That's a shame. I would have thought the silicon would have been enough to hold the plugs in. Did you roughen the holes up a bit? I used a round rasp to scratch the plastic so that the expanding plugs held better. It did make a difference. Also make sure the holes are thoroughly clean and oil free. :)


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 4:09 pm 
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I did clean the holes good and had roughed them up previously trying to get the expanding plugs to hold. I honestly think the plugs pulled out easier after the silicon then when I dry fitted them into the holes.

I cleaned everything up, roughed the holes again, cleaned again then gooped them into place. Will let cure for 72 hours before I give another tug test.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 5:06 pm 
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Location: Cape Coral, FL
Try Lexel, it's sold at ace hardware. Only product I've ever seen that sticks to plastic kayaks. Stays clear and flexible forever. Expensive but worth it, in my opinion. I keep a tube on the boat at all times for emergencies.

J

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also a more manageable 100 square foot spinny...
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:06 pm 
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Thanks for testing out this mod Herbaldew. It's something I intend to get around to doing myself so your experiences are valued. I do have un-opened Scotchweld DP8010 in my emergency spares kit and I know that would work but I was hoping for a simpler solution.

Kayakman7,
Thanks for the heads up re- Lexel.
I've checked and it looks to be available downunder so I'll hunt up a tube. :)


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:14 pm 
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Stringy, keep in mind that Scotchweld DP8010 has a shelf life of only 6 months. :o That's one of the reasons it's not stocked by many places.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 2:06 am 
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Yes ...I'm aware of that thanks Bob. :)
I'm hoping that if I do need to use it my experience will be the same as Roadrunner's who reported it does still work after its expiry date.
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=33359&hilit=scotchweld&start=120


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 6:40 am 
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Herbaldew :
This is just a suggestion that you might try. I have had very good luck with marine epoxy. I would rough up the hole slightly install the plugs smothered in epoxy. After everything is set up you reach into the hull and put hose clamps around each of the posts that stick down inside the hull and tighten them up (not too tight). The trick is to apply the pressure to the now solid epoxy joint after everything has setup, in this case the epoxy is forming a more solid plug, the hose clamps are what hold it in (the epoxy of course doesn't stick to the PE hull).

Here is another method that will work also. If you go to any art supply place (or some Home depot's) and pick up some Bestine solvent and thinner (you can get it online here ( http://www.amazon.com/RUBBER-CEMENT-THI ... 382&sr=8-2) at Amazon.

This is almost pure Heptane (which softens polyethylene). Take a cotton ball and stuff it into the hole then soak it with the heptane, let it soak in for a while keeping it wet (maybe 10-15 minutes). You then coat the outside of the plug with cyanoacrylate glue, remove the cotton ball then shove in the plug (quickly and don't stop halfway down). Once it sets up (almost instantly) you will have to drill it out to remove it. If it were me I would put the hose clamp around the post also for good measure.

You can get the same stuff from Locktite called Loctite plastic bond ( http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_pls ... System.htm) at home depot (but its ten times the cost). The whole trick on bonding PE is to keep the heptane (which is thin like ether) on the surface as long as possible, so on a lap joint you would soak a rag put in between the joints (keeping it wet) let it soak a while, then remove and bond with the super glue, you won't be able to get it a part. Try it on some scrap injection molded PE (not milk cartons, that's a different type (HDPE)).


Sorry for the long response, but just about every other thread someone has problems with adhesives on their plastic hull.
Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2011 9:12 pm 
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Santa brought a Small Craft Advisory this morning followed by a Gale Warning this afternoon, so our planned Christmas outting was cancelled :(

I just went out and gave my seats a good "tug" test and they are holding firm.

Looks like silicon is a no go, but goop and of course anything stronger will work fine.


Edit: Went out for two hours in rough seas this weekend (12-31-11) - the seats pegs held.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 6:00 am 
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The best glue/sealer that I have found sticks really well to PE is Sikaflex. It is a Poly Urethane sealer/adhesive.

http://www.sika.com.au/cmi/marine_products.htm

I have used Sikaflex 291i on several repairs to boats I have worked on.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 3:44 pm 
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I have glued mine in with Silkaflex291 twice now. Each time i roughen up the surfaces and clean them and then apply silkaflex to both surfaces. I did not apply clamps. After 72hrs the pegs seem really secure. But after an 8hr trip as soon as i remove the seats the pegs come out.

I am going to try another alternative listed above. Appreciate if people can share which options have worked consistently e.g >10 trips in salt water without reapplication.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 7:16 pm 
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I'm still waiting for the seat plug screw-ins to arrive downunder. :roll:
The other bits arrived OK but the plugs have been on backorder for a couple of months now! :(


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 8:03 pm 
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I am only up to around a half dozen trips on mine, but the Goop is still holding.

Granted, these winter trips tend to be much shorter than our warm weather outings. We also don't exit and re-enter the boat for cool down swims so I guess they really haven't got a good work out yet.


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