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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 1:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2011 6:14 pm
Posts: 97
Location: Jupiter, Florida
skymax wrote:
A new responsibilty comes with the TI as your Passenger is often relying on you to make all the right decisions and moves with their safety uppermost.

"Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous but like the sea, is terribly unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect." RAF AVM 1930's.


Having flown F-4 phantoms, F15E Strike Eagles, Black Hawk Helecopters, Boeing 727s, 757s and currently fly passengers around the world in the Boeing 767, I could not agree more.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 1:47 pm 
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Location: Jupiter, Florida
TI Anchoring System

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As mentioned earlier the key to surviving in rough weather condition or recovering on the beach is a good bow mounted anchoring system. This allows you to anchor in rough weather to wait out the storm or worst case deploying a sea anchor to ride out the storm in deeper water. Also, when recovering the TI on the beach with high surf, I believe deploying a sea anchor off bow and swimming the boat in from a stern line is the best option. All this requires a easily deployed anchor/sea anchor off the bow. After having tried different options I believe that my friend Marc K (mkrawats) has come up with the best solution. The following anchoring system is based on his design with some of my ideals thrown in.

First you will need to tie a loop on the bow pad eye. I used a sheet bend knot.

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The follow system assumes that 90% of your anchoring will be in 10 -20 feet of water. Therefore you will need approximately 40 feet of line. We have used 3/16 high quality sailing line with a 1200 lbs of tensile strength. Keeping the size and amount of rope on deck to a minimum is important in keeping thing from becoming a tangled mess. Attach a stainless steal spring snap carabiner on each end of line. Either use a good knot (bowline) or have it spiced on with an eye splice. If you plan on anchoring in deep water one ends need to be eye spiced as will be explained later.

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The anchor we chose is the Guardian Fortress G5. it weighs only 2.5 lbs and has incredible holding power in soft bottoms. In order to fit into the forward hatch, 1.5 inches on each side of the stock bar were cut off. Four feet of anchor chain were attached with an anchor shackles on each end. Because I don’t like loose item in the boat I store my anchor in the forward hatch in a Seal Line Baja Bag 20L.

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There are different ways to secure the line on the forward cross bar. I clip the back of the line to a rope tied to the forward crossbar on starboard side. It is important to attach this end to the crossbar because it is what will connect the boat to the anchor once all the line is let out.

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The front end of the line is then clipped to a pad eye attached to the port side of forward crossbar. This is the end the anchor/sea anchor is clipped to when needed.

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Because I am anal retentive and don’t like anything loose on the boat the line is then brought tight and keep tight with a small cleat attached on the right side of the crossbar. This cleat is only used to keep things looking good. It is not used to hold the boat.

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The remaining rope is then bundled and secured to crossbar.

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A separate retrieval line is required to pull the rope in. I suggest using a different color line and tying it to the line on the port side of the the bow pad eye. Use a knot that will slide on the line and then tie the other end to the crossbar.

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A 36 inch bungie cord is used to provide a shock absorber for the anchoring system. The plastic hooks are attached to a alpine butterfly loop tied about 30 inches from the end.

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If you plan to fish wrecks and need an additional deep anchoring system then get the additional length of line needed. I use 100 feet of 5/16 anchoring line stored in a separate bag. The line needs to have an eye spice on each end. The 40 feet of line on the boat (mentioned above) needs to have and eye spice of about 2 feet. This is used to easily flip the ropes into a knot combining both ropes into a single rope.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2011 11:01 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:58 am
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
Brilliant! Amazingly, I stumbled onto an almost identical solution, with the only significant difference being that I discovered a clever >plastic< anchor available here in Australia which is a snap at just $50
http://cooperanchors.com.au/the-cooper-anchor/
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The 1kg anchor fits through an 8" hatch, so I won't need to clamber past the mast to hook it up to the lines at the front cross brace either.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2011 8:20 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
I forgot to mention that the 1kg plastic anchor now comes in blue not pink. Also, there is another hole up near the flutes, so you can attach the chain there and then use plastic ties from the hole at the end of the shank. You can then retrieve the anchor "feet first" by breaking the ties.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 6:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 5:06 am
Posts: 1507
Location: Lake Macquarie NSW AUSTRALIA
tonystott wrote:
I forgot to mention that the 1kg plastic anchor now comes in blue not pink. Also, there is another hole up near the flutes, so you can attach the chain there and then use plastic ties from the hole at the end of the shank. You can then retrieve the anchor "feet first" by breaking the ties.

These are getting good reviews Tony from a lot of forum members. I think Cows was the first to post about a year ago and many have taken them on since. Surprisingly, I think at the moment, BCF have them cheaper than online. First time for everything.
viewtopic.php?f=74&t=33180&p=130898&hilit=cooper#p130898

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 1:20 pm 
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Is there any chance of getting these in the US ?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 3:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 175
Location: Camas, WA
It's been a while since I've posted here. I have a TI since last June and have been doing a lot of kayak fishing in lakes and rivers and some crabbing in estuaries here in the great Pacific Northwest. Now I am planning to do some salt water fishing off the Oregon/Washington Coast where the swell (ironic name) and wind waves can be amazingly destructive (see Cape Disappointment).

Wonder what the current state of the art is in surf launching and landing a TI. This post was instructive but it's a few months old I'd like to know what's the latest field tested strategy any of you have developed for this.

To launch into the surf:

Would you lash the amas in or extend them?
Tramps on or off?
If you're planning to sail would you lash the mast to the hull until out of the surf zone or mount the mast and leave the sail furled?
Would you walk the TI out to deep enough water to mount the drives and pedal out through the breakers or just paddle it out?
Rudder up and use a paddle to steer or rudder down and kick it all the way out?

To land on a beach through surf:

I've seen Hobiecats sail right onto the beach but not thinking the TI could handle that, seems like a recipe for ama-geddon!

Would you retract the amas or leave one or both out?
Would you leave the drives in or pull them before entering the surf zone?
Would you jump out and hold the stern line and ease it in bow first? Stern First?
Would you use an anchor or drift chute? Bow first or stern first?

Thanks for any and all comments.

PS - I'd love to get one of those cool anchors, still not available in the US or Canada as far as I can tell.

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Dune TI - 6/4/2011
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:14 am 
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Location: oki - jp
I've landed on the TI on the beach with 2' waves and about 15mph wind and i can't see how say 4' would be much different, just a little faster. i am not sure how really windy conditions with 5'+ waves would be like though.

in 2' waves i just sailed till i was close to shore, then furled up the sail and put away the dagger board and front pedals. then i slowly peddled up to the where the waves started. once in the waves just point it straight onto the shore (i always have amas out) or try to be straight with the wave. once your sure the waves will push you hard enough to shore just pull up your pedals (or not), and i prefer to use the rudder to steer until the very last possible moment and be ready to quickly pull up the rudder when you are about to hit land.

launching sounds a lot tougher though, but i think 3-4' waves is definitely do able. just time it right. i always push off and immediately start paddling, while simultaneously pulling down the rudder and when i get a free moment i put in the pedals and off i go. in waves just do it faster :D but in wind pushing you sideways and waves i may search for alternate options :D

i don't link launching in a crosswind of anything more than like 8-10. i have a long dock about 100 feet off the left side and another about 50 feet to the right side when launching and on occasion have gotten a little closer than i care to while launching.


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