Return to Hobie.com
Hobie Forums
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 10:25 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 10:35 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:38 pm
Posts: 13
Location: Seattle
So my son and I decided to replace the worn out shock cord for the trap lines on our newly acquired H18.

These had been removed from the boat and left to gently marinate in the blue plastic bin full of noodle like wire and rope, mysteriously braised shiney little metal bits and lightly toasted small plastic turney, clippy things; these were all bathed in a piquant dry rub of crispy seaweed and panko crunchy sand.

We checked the H18 rope and line cookbook and it said we need four 7' shock cords. I get that we need four but how are these routed? 7' seems way too long if you're going to the rail. But if you shorten them up and attach them to the rail you don't have enough give to really hike out.

Thanks for the help!

Chef Zubie


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:06 pm 
Offline
Site Admin

Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 15026
Location: Oceanside, California
The cords enter fittings in the lip near the shroud. The forward one routes forward to an eye fitting riveted to the inside of the lip. The aft cord... routes to a similar fitting aft. You will see two rivet heads in the hull lip + / - 1" spaced where the eyes are located.

The should be a loop at the end of each cord. Take the bitter end and pass through the lip fitting. Pull all of the cord through and then up to the eye. Poke the end up through the eye. Tie a knot in the end to hold. Tuck the knot up under the lip.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 2:29 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:38 pm
Posts: 13
Location: Seattle
Matt,

Thanks for the reply. So the loop is on the end that attaches to the trap? How big should that loop be?

Cheers,

Zubie


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 4:59 pm 
Offline
Site Admin

Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 15026
Location: Oceanside, California
Yes... trap end. Just enough to pass the line through / tie a connecting knot. I'd guess stock is about 1" Loop.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 6:07 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2008 8:21 am
Posts: 351
Location: Eagle, Idaho
Don't forget there is one in your boom that works with the outhaul car.

Add two rivits for this recipe.

Cork guy

_________________
Corkguy H18, Tiger, Wildcat


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 9:22 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:38 pm
Posts: 13
Location: Seattle
Cork Guy,

I'm a little confused...there is a shock cord in my boom? I need to do something with this?

Thanks for the clarification!

Zubie


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:17 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2005 12:55 am
Posts: 353
Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
He is just mentioning that there is another piece of shock cord in the boom. It provides forward tension for the outhaul car. To replace it, you have to remove the rear end cap from the boom, which is why you will need 2 extra rivets. I think the shock cord here is 2-3ft long.

Ill add my 2 cents about the trap shock cords in the other thread.

_________________
1992 Hobie Cat 18 #16943
Hobie Fleet 198, Rapid City, SD


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:54 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sat Jul 25, 2009 11:19 pm
Posts: 340
Location: San Diego
I once replaced the shock cord in my boom with out taking off the end cap. I used a stiff coat hanger and some needle nose pliers. So just know it is possible, but difficult, but with two sets of hands it made be easier.

_________________
ALLEY CAT 1984 RED LINE HOBIE 18 MAGNUM
Sail # 10505 or 277
Image Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:00 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Tue Aug 23, 2011 1:36 pm
Posts: 38
I just replaced the shock cord in my boom a couple weeks ago. It is 7' long. There are 2 aluminum blocks inside the boom the out haul cleat bolts into, fore & aft. Each has two holes in it, port & starboard. The shock cord routes through both starboard holes, through the hole in the end of the traveler car, and back through both holes in the port side. The ends are knotted off.

It might be possible to route it without removing the end cap, but I wouldn't recommend it. The slot along the top side of the boom is really thin. In my opinion difficult sounds like an understatement. Besides, with the right equipment removing the end cap isn't difficult at all.

The rivets are stainless 6/6 size. You can get them easily at your Hobie dealer or search online and find many sources. Their diameter is 3/16". There are different recommendations for drilling out the rivets.
1. Use an over-sized bit, like 1/2", to drill off the head. Then use a punch to push the rivet through.
2. Use the same diameter bit to drill the rivet all the way out.

With the second option you run more risk of enlarging the holes so a new rivet may not hold as well, or at all, so the first is more recommended. However I did find that due to the shape of the casting sometimes there isn't anywhere for the rivet to go. If you find you can't get the rivet to punch through you may have to drill it all the way out, but be extremely careful here.

Installing new rivets is pretty simple too. They are stainless, so they are harder to pull than a standard rivet. I recommend a heavy duty bolt cutter mechanism style puller. You can get them for ≈$20 at Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. I've heard others complain about how difficult pulling the stainless rivets can be, but I had no problem at all with one of these. Be sure to wear eye protection though.

Also, while you have the cap off, you may also want to replace your outhaul line too. 7' x 3/16". It ties to the end cap, around the outhaul car pully (in the bottom, out the top), around the end cap pully (in the bottom, out the top), and to the cleat.

Finally, you will also want to inspect your outhaul car as well and replace any parts that may be worn out.

-Rowdy


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 8:54 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2016 2:15 pm
Posts: 78
Mr_Rowdy wrote:
Also, while you have the cap off, you may also want to replace your outhaul line too. 7' x 3/16". It ties to the end cap, around the outhaul car pully (in the bottom, out the top), around the end cap pully (in the bottom, out the top), and to the cleat.

Great info and small tweak....
(the outhaul) ties to the end cap, around the outhaul car pully (in the top, out the bottom), around the end cap pully (in the bottom, out the top), and to the cleat.
...otherwise there's ano unnecessary line cross in the boom.

Randii


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 2:43 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:40 am
Posts: 14
One other thing, with the boom end cap.
The rivets only hold the cap in place, a flange takes all the load.
Don't bother with SS rivets, save the trouble & use AL, it will be way easier to drill them out next time.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Shock Cord Stew
PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 6:43 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 610
Location: Buffalo, NY
I've also replaced the boom shock cord without removing the endcap. I didn't think it was all that difficult, so long as you have a decent flat head screw driver/coat hanger/needle nose pliers to get at the cord. I don't exactly remember how I secured it on the ends, as it was 3 years ago, but I remember thinking "gee, that wasn't so bad!" The worst part was just trying to fish the shock cord back through the outhaul car. I might've moved/removed the jam cleats for easier access. All in all, it took maybe 20 minutes doing it that way, no drilling or riveting necessary.

_________________
Mike
Image
'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Jump to:  
© Hobie Cat Company. All rights reserved.
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group