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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 6:27 pm 
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Ive read about the problematic process of riveting the traveler to the cross bar due to clearance issues.

ive seen someone make refrence to a cheap rivet gun from sears that they filed the sides down on to do the job with, they posted pics but the links are all dead now.

Anyone have a picture of this rivet gun? Sears sells a dozen or so, my kit will be here Friday so I want to get everything rounded up.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 7:00 pm 
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Some recommend a heavier rivet gun than the one I used in those pics. Like:

Image

See this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10799&hilit=rivet+gun

Some points:
1. If the dealer can do this job for you, I'd let him.
2. If you're going to DIY, you may want a heavier gun for future use for heavier rivets. The rivets for this job are light and a light rivet gun is just marginal. I was too cheap to buy the big momma. (These are right rivets for this traveler.)
3. Practice riveting two pieces of same-thickness scrap metal first. You can get similar rivets at hardware store and not use rivets in the kit for practice.
4. Here's mention of a spacer and rivet gun from Murrays:
Quote:
JJ,

I found out a little more about a better Hand Riveter from Doug Murray from Murrays Catalogue who said he uses a 3/32" or 1/8" (that's the size of the middle hole) Stop Sleeve (that's about 1/4" deep) to act as a spacer.

He uses a much better Riveter than the $9.95 Sears Riveter. The one he uses is called a Marson 39000 HP2 Professional Hand Riveter (Regular from $48.00 and up... but available from some online stores at $25.00... he matched the lowest price for me...).

This one is designed to pull up to 3/16" stainless steel rivets, and unlike the $9.95 Sears version (that's only good for aluminum rivets), has no problem with not being able to grip the shaft properly -- even after giving up about 1/4" to the spacer... so no need to file down the tip to get into the trak. And the inside mechanism makes it a lot easier to POP, even tho you still need to pull hard.

He has another one that is pretty heavy-duty with longer arms that makes things a lot easier... but that's $90+ and is only required if one intends to POP many many rivets at a time.


Read here down the page: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=9323&hilit=traveler&start=30


Last edited by JJ on Wed Jan 04, 2012 7:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 7:19 pm 
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Several of original pics. Click for bigger. (I need to get a better pic sharing site... Picoodle is not good.)

Image

Image

Image

Because I am hours away from a Hobie dealer, this was what got done. Proceed at your own risk...


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:21 pm 
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That riveter looks similar to this:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_45272-412-RH200 ... facetInfo=

I have a heavy duty pneumatic riveter but it wont fit in that track and i'm not "modifying" it.

So you used that gun, and by the looks of it a piece of scrap as a spacer so the gun didn't pull the rivet up.

I'm guessing that didn't result in a clean cut and you filed down the excess rivet?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:26 pm 
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This also looks promising:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-riv ... 94100.html


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:28 pm 
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I always liked this video --


Quote:
I'm guessing that didn't result in a clean cut and you filed down the excess rivet?
Nope, it came out clean like in the last pic. The spacer holds the rivet down, also.

I re-quote the quote. Read the thread under the link too...

Quote:
Quote:
JJ,

I found out a little more about a better Hand Riveter from Doug Murray from Murrays Catalogue who said he uses a 3/32" or 1/8" (that's the size of the middle hole) Stop Sleeve (that's about 1/4" deep) to act as a spacer.

He uses a much better Riveter than the $9.95 Sears Riveter. The one he uses is called a Marson 39000 HP2 Professional Hand Riveter (Regular from $48.00 and up... but available from some online stores at $25.00... he matched the lowest price for me...).

This one is designed to pull up to 3/16" stainless steel rivets, and unlike the $9.95 Sears version (that's only good for aluminum rivets), has no problem with not being able to grip the shaft properly -- even after giving up about 1/4" to the spacer... so no need to file down the tip to get into the trak. And the inside mechanism makes it a lot easier to POP, even tho you still need to pull hard.

He has another one that is pretty heavy-duty with longer arms that makes things a lot easier... but that's $90+ and is only required if one intends to POP many many rivets at a time.


Read here down the page: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=9323&hilit=traveler&start=30


No shame in letting a dealer do this, I say. Discretion is the better part of valor, as they say.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:26 pm 
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Nothing having anything to do with sailing exists within a hundred miles of me. :lol:

I'm not at all nervous about doing it, I just want to make sure I have the tools in hand so I can get on the water asap.

I wouldn't want a dealer to do it anyway, I like doing everything myself so If something breaks I know how to fix it and who to yell at. :mrgreen:

I finally got the port installation PDF thanks to a board member, that will be next weeks adventure :D


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