Hobie Cat Forums

While fishing yesterday my steering got real tight and eventualy snapped, I have the original steering with no upgrade. I have one Hobie Dealer within 2 hours of me and they dont work on them they only sale them. Thanks for your assistance

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You can 're-string the entire system with current spectra - this is a fairly straight forward D.I.Y. if you're up for it. Or there is a 'upgrade' kit also available to convert to the current 2011' style steering handle - this install however is a bit more involved. I'm sure some others will chime in who have maybe done to conversion to help explain how difficult it was for them.
Sorry that you're local dealer isn't helping - if you just e mail or PM me with their info I'll try and get you more help.
Both parts (replacement line sold by the foot - and the upgrade kit) are available to ship out today.
Line # 81023001
steering kit # 84506201

I have a 2009 model PA with the original steering and have had all kinds of issues with it. I have snapped the cable, retied it, adjusted the tension and about everything you can possibly think of to try and remedy the problem of the handle requiring me to apply so much pressure to make the kayak turn I feel like I'm going to break it off.

My solution...my steering upgrade kit arrives in the mail today!!! My buddy has a 2011 model and you can turn his kayak with your pinky finger. I'll be out of town this weekend but I'll hopefully get to it on Monday when I get back. It has been a pain for about a year now and my thought is save yourself the hassle and just upgrade it now. Once mine got tight like you describe it stayed that way and went from bad to worse.

Thx for the replies...... Chanman, let me know how it works for ya!

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Make sure before you put the silicon on the steering tube riser plate holes (step 3 in the instructions) that you either pre-drill the holes (step 5) or have a bit long enough to go through both sides of the rod holder area where the crank support mounts (once again see step5). My drill chuck prevented me from getting through both sides while holding the bracket in place so I got an extension and got the holes so they were close enough to straight across, I would have like to have them line up a little better.

Edit: I found the instructions so I could be more precise with my wording, I hope it helps.
I did not mention step 4 where you secure the crank spport block and the crank base because I want you to look into step 5 before applying silicone (once again step3), thus allowing you to be prepared for a potential problem with step 5

I have a 2010 and my PA's steering is so light you can literally blow on the steering toggle and move it.

Where did your steering line break? Where that break is located will determine if you're in for a quick fix, or something that will require more time and effort.

It broke at the seat, at the actual hand reel. It came loose from the tensioner screw, I strung it and made sure there were no kinks in the lines. My steering works but is still tight. Looks like I'll have to wait till the May tournament in Jacksonville to get retrofitted!

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A steering line break there should be easily fixed.

I'd trace the line route and see what could be making it stiff. It shouldn't be and the fact that it is means that somewhere, something is binding.

Followed it as far as I could. Cut the zip ties at the tank well and under the seat and replaced them to make sure it wasn't them......

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If you remove the steering cam well cover and take the screws holding the lines to the steering toggle loose, does the cam move freely?

Once you get to that point, you can discern if the problem is fore or aft of the cam assembly.

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Yes I took it loose that's where my line had came loose. Yes it moves freely

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Okay, if you take the lines off the steering box itself, do the lines still move easily?

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Not as free

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Then something between the steering cam and the steering toggle is binding. It shouldn't be this way. Now that you know where the bind is, you should be able to find and correct it.

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