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 Post subject: TRANSOM PROFILE
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 6:48 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 6:13 pm
Posts: 5
I just purchased a Tiger with the sterns scrubbed off below the rudder gudgeons, from a trailering incedent :( If someone with a tiger could trace the profile of the transom from the bottom of the rudder gudgeons down and fax it to me I can get this thing back on the water. I also need the overall height of the transom and the distance from bottom of rudder gudgeon to bottom of hull. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Pat

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 8:04 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sat Jul 02, 2005 9:47 pm
Posts: 614
Location: San Diego
Congratulations,
I saw this boat on e-bay and placed an early bid on it. Was it really complete? I didn't have time to call for more information, so I was reluctant to bid agressively. If it had the rudders, sails, boards and spinnaker gear, then you got a steal.

My plan for a more perfect repair requires more than just faxed outlines, but it will make the repair faster, easier and more true to the original hull, but you will need a friends boat for a day or so to pull it off.

Measure how far forward the grind area is, you only need one mould so measure which hull has the longer damage. Wax the target boat. Spray the target boat with mould release, glass the outside of the hull at least a few inches further on the hull than you need to repair on you hull. If your friend is not comfortable with having the glass touch his or her racing hull, cover the hull with aluminum foil, and spray this with the mould release. You want this smooth as possible because this will be your semi finished hull and will save you lots of finishing time. You have to glass a few layers thick to make the mould strong enough to hold shape and not change as you pull it off the hull.

Once you have this female mold, prepare it by waxing, tape it to the damaged hull, lay down gelcoat thick, glass from the inside of the hull... ... and finish the detail after you pull off the mould. You could also build the part seperate from the boat and glass it to the hull, but this will require more fit and finish.

For the price you paid for the boat, it may be worth finding a glass professional to complete the work. In the long run it will save you both time and money.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 8:29 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 6:13 pm
Posts: 5
I agree that would be the best way to get the perfect shape. I just don't know anybody with one. I can get real close using the profile of the hull just forward of the damage. I just need to know the correct height at the transom and the traced profile would confirm the shape.
The boat was pretty complete. It does need dagger boards, boom block, all sheets, cunningham blocks and jib and spi blocks, as posted in the wanted section. thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 2:10 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 9:13 pm
Posts: 56
Location: New Orleans, LA
Can you post some pics of the damaged area ? I'll try and help if I can.

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 Post subject: transom profile
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:02 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 6:13 pm
Posts: 5
Thanks for your offer KennyB. I just about have it wrapped up with the help of another member of this forum (Dan DeLave). Still need several parts though. I'll see ya on the water


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 Post subject: Tiger
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 1:53 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 7:46 pm
Posts: 1457
Location: Santa Cruz
I agree with Hammond. Splash a quick mold of another boat. There are several in the Sac area that I'm sure wouldn't mind helping. If you need a pro glass guy. Call me.
Dan D is great about helping get people on the water!

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