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 Post subject: jib sheet setup
PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:49 pm 
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Location: Missouri
I've been reading several forums and they talk about having the port and starboard jib sheets different colors. The jibsheet on my boat is just one line that goes to each swivel cleat, so it creates a large loop just behind the mast. How are the jibsheets set up with two dofferent colored lines? Do the connect to create a loop like I have?
Does anyone know?
Thanks,
John


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:22 am 
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Some sailors have separate jib sheets for each side - If you sail your boat solo a lot you might find it helpful to attach the jib sheet loosely to the crew's trap wire handle so you can reach the sheet while traped out. If you color code you probably do not form a loop. The only benefit of the loop setup is that it will more likely stay on the tramp rather than being dragged behind the boat.
If you look around you might see some Hobie 16's set up with separate traveler and main sheet. It all comes down to personal preference.

Thanks,

Patrick


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:06 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
John,

Don't cut your jib sheet!!! Talk to Richard and go look at his setup or wait until Stockton and you can see what we're doing with the traveller controls.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 12:54 pm 
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Location: Missouri
I have to replace my jib sheets this summer anyway, but I won't cut my old one off until I get new line and take a look at how you, John Eaton have yours set up. One thing I have never had on my jib sheets is the shock cord that connects to the travelers, does it make a difference having the shock cord there?
Thanks,
John


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 1:04 pm 
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Image

Here we go.

Do you have the swivel cleats for the jib sheet, or original cleats as part of the traveler car?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 1:09 pm 
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Location: Missouri
I have harken swivel cleats, Older ones, (chrome teeth), but I am pretty sure they are on the jib car.
John


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 1:22 pm 
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Best we wait, unless I can get some photos taken this weekend.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 10:08 am 
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Location: Pacific NW
I just bought an H16 with the original jib car/traveler and I'm looking into setting up like the diagram above by John E.
for the plate and camlock next to the mast, would I use something like the HAR239 or HAR241 by Harken for those pieces?
Did you ever get any pic I can look at John?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 11:32 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Harken 241, exactly, that's it.

It should say Harken swivel base on the diagram!!!

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:34 am 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
Which set up is better. The diagram John Eaton posted. Where as the cleat for the starboard traveler is on the port side. Or, where the cleat for the starboard traveler is on the starboard side. A picture shows the second way.

Sorry, I don't know how to make a link, so just copy and paste.
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/29 ... 2239wvzdmL


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 1:47 pm 
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Hi Nova,

What you have pictured certainly works. Having the lance cleat closer to the crew helps if there is a problem uncleating. The diagram is an option keeping most of the control line forward, and out of the way.

Coming up to KC for the Daggerless Regatta on April 28th & 29th?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 1:03 am 
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John Eaton wrote:
Image

Here we go.

Do you have the swivel cleats for the jib sheet, or original cleats as part of the traveler car?


I'm setting up my hobie 16 like this and have a couple of questions.

1. What is the line length of the jib sheet (black line in photo)?

2. What is the length of the line for the cars (red and green lines in photo)? Are they two seperate lines or one continious line? What size line?

3. What length and size shockcord should I use for the return (blue line in photo)?

What type of pad eye should I use. Does it get rivited to the crossbar? Does the car line run through it with the shockcord?

Any help is appreciated.


Thanks
Cory

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 9:42 am 
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Location: Los Angeles
For anyone that can help,

I've got a question about the jib car controller sheet. I've noticed in diagrams and some boats on the water that they're setup to go through the cleat and attach directly to a location on the sidebar. With this configuration, the travler could only be adjusted by the crew from from a position on the tramp. Do most sailors (crew) only adjust the travler when they're on the tramp?

I personally prefer the crew to be able to perform all of their functions from the wire, including travler adjustments which would require car sheet longer than the ones displayed in the diagram. Any thoughts???


Happy Sailing,

David


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 2:22 pm 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
Usually I don't have my crew adjust the traveler once underway. But I'm almost always all the way in or out with the jib traveler. I'm either pointing as high as I can, or downwind going as deep as I can go. When rounding A mark I send the crew in first they grab the jib sheat in one hand, and the traveler sheat in the other. When we make the turn I'm reaching for a short bit to build up steam, then they'll pull the traveler out, and let out jib adjust and cleat. Somewhere during the last bit of the turn I'm coming in off the wire while dumping the main traveler.

When both of us are on the wire I usually have them take the jib sheat out with them, and then tend to the slack on the main. Keep it from getting washed over, fall through the lacing etc. On a 16 I think its more set and go with the jib. In fact on my 06' 16 the traveler sheats are tied off to the lacing on the tramp with not much slack either.

By the way, is it sheet, or sheat?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 5:17 pm 
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Location: Los Angeles
Hey Karl,

You make some really good points. But it's these points that cause me to have the questions I have. Sailing solo most of the time gives me the opportunity to observe my boats behavior when using all the options available. I have noticed a distinct difference in performance based on the location of both travelers.

Quote:
Usually I don't have my crew adjust the traveler once underway. But I'm almost always all the way in or out with the jib traveler. I'm either pointing as high as I can, or downwind going as deep as I can go. When rounding A mark I send the crew in first they grab the jib sheat in one hand, and the traveler sheat in the other.


If there's enough wind to double trap on the way to "A" mark, why would you have to come off the wire at all while rounding the mark. I know that most sailors dump the main traveler while rounding the mark but that's where the boat speed is lost. In my experience (and I have very little), I've learned that boat speed is maintained best if the main traveler is gradually released through the manuveur. I've also noticed that pointing as high as I can and as deep as I can does not give me the greatest speeds for my boat (maybe I don't have it set up properly). :?

So, my question is, wouldn't it be advantagous if the crew could take both the jib and jib traveler sheet out on the wire with them so that they could make the necessary traveler adjustments with the skipper (making main traveler adjustments) while rounding "A" mark? Of course, the traveler sheet would have to be longer than I've seen them on most boats. Mine are as long as the jib sheet and I want to make sure before making any other adjustments. Just trying to get some input before I kill myself (and my crew). What do you think??? :lol:

By the way, it's sheet.


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