Hobie Cat Forums

Bought a new drysuit (the Columbia River is mighty cold this time of year), hull ding repairs underway and plan to put the boat together this weekend and hope to be sailing the next (good wind this time of year - 8 - 20+ knots at Wallula Gap). Tally Ho

Hull dings are done, but I found my right rear (starboard aft for the nautical types) cross beam end bracket (the alum. one with the 3 screws) loose. One of the screw heads had broken off and the holes that the two pins stick into the hull were elongated (a bit oval shaped). I plan to use some marine epoxy as fill to re-round the holes when I reattach the end bracket. I was thinking that I might want to lightly wax the 2 end cap pins so they will release if I need to replace it in the future. Any opinions?

If it might come to that fastcat, why not just replace them now? Also, sent you a PM.

gmhendo, Actually the only thing that needs replacing is the broken screw (the end bracket is in great shape) and the other 3 end brackets are tight and secure. If I can get to it I'll do the epoxy work today, have 36 hrs to fully cure, then put the boat together on Saturday and possibly get on the water Sunday. If not I might take out my wifes Weta out Sunday.

The saga continues, I am Bummed. I started to put the boat together last Saturday and ran into a MAJOR road block. I discovered that both of my cross beams have cracks in them at the inboard hull bolt holes. The cracks are significant, almost half way around the beam on the rear beam (original beam that came with the boat - a 2000) and smaller cracks on the front beam (a new replacement bought in 2006). I guess sailing 40+ times a season in heavy wind/waves does have some drawbacks. I'm checking with my local Hobie dealer and Matt to see if new replacements are available (my first choice) or if good used can be found. Has anyone had any experence with welded cross beam repairs??? Can it even be done?

It "can" be done, but you'd have to re-heat treat the crossbeam.

Ideal is new crossbeams ($$$$). Next best is used ($$).

I have a used forward crossbeam (no hardware, not even the dolphin striker) with a small hairline crack on the upper side, extending aft of the mast step post hole about 1". (That's why it was replaced ~ 13 years ago.) It's yours for $25 + the cost of shipping. I'm tired of looking at it and I'm too lazy to haul it to the scrapper.

That is a bummer for sure. I had the same thing happen when I bought my first used 17. Brought it home, took it apart, and bam- front crossbar cracked at the outside bolt holes on the bottom side. Not the way you want to start off with a new boat. Happily, one of the gurus in our fleet gave me a spare. Better that you found it now rather than the hard way.

Let us know if you're successful getting a replacement from Hobie. I doubt there many left.

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Good news. Looks like I'll be able to throw some $$$$ at getting some NEW crossbars. I'm so glad that they are available.

MBounds - thanks for the offer for the used crossbar, but my concern is that I got 5 seasons out of my previous front crossbar (bought new) so used would likely be less so.

More good news. They sell just the extrusions, so I can use my removed hardware and save some bucks. Also, the new rear cross bar comes with the integrated track (and will work with my traveler). So it is not just a repair - it is an UPGRADE (I love upgrades). Both extrusions, necessary rivets AND shipping come in under a grand - sweet.

Many thanks to Matt Miller and my Hobie dealer, Miles Moore.

In case you're not aware, in order to use the crossbars with the integrated traveler track, you will have to modify the crossbar end castings (the cast aluminum pieces that screw into the hull and receive the crossbar) by cutting out a section of the top of the casting where the extrusion hits.

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Thanks srm, I found that out when I replaced my front crossbar (no track) back in 2006 with a tracked one. At that time the new crossbar had the track go all the way to the end, so I cut out the inside 1.25" of the track on each end to slip over the end casting. The new tracked crossbars have 1/2" of the track ends machined off to accomidate the casting end plate and about 0.25" of the side casting, so a notch must be cut in the casting top to accomidate the rest of the track. Praise be to Dremel.

P.S. both extrusions are being shipped today.

P.S.S. Does anyone know the tension (torque) that you apply to tighten the dolphin striker rod on the front crossbar (i.e., to the nuts inside the bar at the inboard supports)?

From a personal communication with Matt - the dolphin striker rod is tightened just enough to take out the slack without putting any additional bend on the cross bar. Extrusions are to arrive tomorrow. I hope to be on the water this weekend.

That is great news. All praise to hobie for the support they give to us to keep our boats on the water.

_________________
Steve
1979 Hobie 16 "Orange Crusher"

Update: I took yesterday off and re-hardwared my new crossbars, modified the end castings, installed the cross bars between the hull and laced up the tramp. Today, weather permitting, I will install the centerboards, rudder, front spreader and shrouds.

The boat is finally ready and I even got my square top back from Whirlwind (new windows on the main) sweet. The wind was less than desired last weekend, so I'm hoping for some this or I may have to travel to the George in search.