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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:41 pm 
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Hi all, loong time lurker, finally registered. Over the years i have learned a ton on this forum. Just to establish my Hobie cred; I've had 2 16's and an 18 over the years, I have a 16 now. Last fall I began to think I either need to lose some weight (im 220 lbs on a good day) or get a bigger boat. As much as I love my 16, I started looking for an 18. Instead, I stumbled upon a 20 that was just too good to pass up. I picked it up over the weekend and can't wait to get to get it out on the water.

All the parts are there, the hulls are in good shape (I checked all the trouble spots from pointers I got here) 2 complete sets of sails (252) and a spinnaker kit that doesn't look like it was ever used. Boards and trunks look very good, same with rudders.

Nothing looks even remotely like my 16 on this boat - a lot more lines and shock cord than im used to! I'm going to have lots of questions over the next few months, so thanks in advance for your help and patience. And now for the first of many questions;

Anyone have any suggestions for freeing a rudder pin from the lower gudgeon? Its been there a while (the rudders are not on the boat, but the prior owner must have put the pin there for safekeeping. I tried the normal wd-40 and it already looks like someone tried a punch or awl on it. Should I remove the gudgeon?

Thanks
Jim


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 6:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 2618
Location: Jersey Shore
The Hobie 20 rudder pins had a nasty habit of bending. I'd suggest replacing the dual pin system with one long single pin. To get the stuck pin out you may need to remove the gudgeon and place it in a vice so you can drive the pin out with a drift. Or if worst comes to worst, have a machine shop press the pin out.

Welcome to a whole new world of sailing. The 20 is a great boat and a totally different animal than a 16, almost not even comparable.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 4:12 am 
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Thanks for that - ill remove the gudgeon and try that way. Ill take your advice and switch to the single longer pin. Is that pin a 20 part? Or is it from another hobie? Use the same sleeves?

Thanks,
JDM


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 8:51 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
I don't believe Hobie makes a single pin that will work for the 20. If memory serves, I believe the 20's rudder pins are actually a smaller diameter than the other Hobie pins. Your best bet is to just get a length of stainless steel round bar (5/16" dia I believe), cut it, and drill holes for the cotter pins. McMaster Carr is a great source for this material.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:57 am 
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Thanks - good info. Ill swap out to the single SS pin instead.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:58 am
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Location: Knoxville, TN
Actually, Hobie does make a one piece SS rudder pin for the 20. I've got them on my boat as do most if not all of us sailing in Division 14. The part number is 40880011. Check with my friends at Mariner Sails, http://www.mariner-sails.com/, the Dallas Hobie dealer. They've probably got them in stock and if you place your order before noon, they'll probably ship them the same day.

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Mark Van Doren
Division 9 Chairman
H16 #112205 (Richard Petty Signature Edition)
H14T #47787
H20 #647 (sold)


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:47 pm 
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Location: Knoxville, TN
Jdm,

Where are you located? If you are within a reasonable drive of Shreveport, LA, I'll be glad to work with you to set up a time convenient for both of us to go over your boat. You can pull it over here, I'll help you rig it, then we'll take her out on the lake and I'll show you what I've learned about sailing this beast. It's a complex boat to figure out on your own. Seeing another one rigged up really helps. I had a lot of help (thanks Chris Johnston, Tom Page, Phil Collins and Wrinklie) when I started sailing the 20 and I'd be glad to return the favor.

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Mark Van Doren
Division 9 Chairman
H16 #112205 (Richard Petty Signature Edition)
H14T #47787
H20 #647 (sold)


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 5:51 am 
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Thanks MVD, Ill order those. Can you still use the same bushings - or are those different if I use the single pin? Maybe I should just get new bushings anyway - im guessing they get some wear.

Would love to take you up on your offer - but Im in the Northeast; east end of Long Island to be precise. Thanks again for the help!

Regards,
JDM


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 6:39 am 
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Location: Knoxville, TN
The bushings and gudgeons are the same. From this page on the Mariner Sails site, you can access parts diagrams of nearly any Hobie: http://www.mariner-sails.com/department.asp?id=8515. With my rudder pins, I've found that a 1/4 inch keeper ring (HC 20860000) in the top hole and a SS safety pin (HC 20503) in the bottom works best. This configuration will allow you to permanently leave the lock ring in the top hole. Then, to remove the pin, all you have to do is quickly disconnect the safety pin and pull the pin out from the top. You'll want to remove your rudders for trailering and if you have EPOs, you'll want to remove them when not in use to protect them from UV.

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Mark Van Doren
Division 9 Chairman
H16 #112205 (Richard Petty Signature Edition)
H14T #47787
H20 #647 (sold)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 8:22 am 
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Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 6:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:35 am
Posts: 188
i'm in the same boat!… 220# , moving from a H16 to a H20. I bought it and its in my driveway. Everything is solid and the boat is in great condition. I'd love to meet up with/travel to a fellow H20 sailor with experience before the new season starts. I'm replacing all running rigging but boy are there a lot of lines, sheets, bungees ect. all over the place. I've read there are several ways to rig the 4 way jib system not to mention all the mast rotation varieties and tramp de-cluttering techniques. Any help is surely welcomed!
Tim
grovertim@gmail.com

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Tim Grover

Memphis, TN

1978 H16 (sold)
1986 H16 (sold)
1980 H16 (sold)
1996 H20 Miracle (just right)
Bought another H16. Solid!!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 9:39 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:58 am
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Location: Knoxville, TN
Since I last posted on this thread, I've moved from Shreveport to Knoxville, still a pretty long haul from Memphis. I'd be glad to help you out if we could figure out a somewhat convenient time/place to meet. I don't have any plans to go west anytime soon. I may visit family in Western Kentucky around Christmas. I sold my 20 a month ago, but rigging it is still pretty fresh in my mind.

_________________
Mark Van Doren
Division 9 Chairman
H16 #112205 (Richard Petty Signature Edition)
H14T #47787
H20 #647 (sold)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:36 pm
Posts: 183
A few of us out in california have picked up some 20s with one foot still in the 18 racing circuit. We still have an active 20 fleet, so there are a few options to go with for sure. Is your boat mostly stock?

Tom

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Tom
Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 7:10 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:35 am
Posts: 188
My 20 is completely stock from what I can tell. Are there any lines or sheet differences that you guys use that are different than what's listed in the assembly manual? Are the one peice H18 gudgeons a worthwhile upgrade over the stock 2 peice gudgeons? I've ordered a jib furler as a safety net incase I get caught in high wind. I've seen videos of guys hauling butt on a breezy day with the jib up only. Looks like these 20's are rockets! I'm looking to buy a nice harness too. Don't think I'll be sitting down much. Recommendations?
Tim

_________________
Tim Grover

Memphis, TN

1978 H16 (sold)
1986 H16 (sold)
1980 H16 (sold)
1996 H20 Miracle (just right)
Bought another H16. Solid!!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 9:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:36 pm
Posts: 183
A set of Hobie harnesses came with my 20 and they fit me better than anything else, my crew on the other hand loves a ronstan I had picked up for my 18. After using the Hobie gear, I'd probably shell out for a new one if I needed because the fit is so much better for me. Try out whatever you can before you commit to it though.


I've heard and somewhat experienced(I don't feel I have really good control over my 20 yet) that the jib is key in high winds. Tightening up the foot and letting the top blow out gives you a little bit of power and helps the bows drive through the waves. I know a typical modification is made to the barber hauler system, where a cleat is mounted individually to the front crossbar and a small block is mounted to the front towards the outside, helping get the sail outboard more and making it easier to cleat and uncleat. The other mod many have done, is to convert the travler cleat on the traveler car, to a center mounted cleat on the rear crossbar. I haven't done either mod yet, but I plan on the barber hauler one next year.

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Tom
Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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