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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 4:55 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Central Florida
I have a 2007 AI and built my mast tube from 4" drainfield pipe. 4" PVC does have too small an ID for the mast to fit, but the drainfield pipe has a much thinner wall thickness and works perfectly. Drainfild pipe comes with or without holes running it's length. I used the no holes version, but either will work. Drainfield pipe has one end enlarged as a built in coupler. I cut that end off. I glued a 4" drainfield cap on one end and a 4" clean-out plug, with a screw-in plug, on the other. I simply unscrew the plug to load the mast.

Be sure to drill a couple of breather holes on the cap end. The mast, in the bag, fits tightly enough that it creates a vacuum that will fight you when pulling the mast out. I simply strap the pipe to my rack (I roof top my AI) and it works well at protecting the mast and preventing the wind from whipping it around.

Rick

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:55 am 
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Location: Delaware Coast
Good info Intents.

I checked that option out in an attempt to lessen the expense of this project. What I found is that the AI and TI have different furling drums. The TI drum is larger and will not fit into that pipe :(

I just got a call informing me that a free piece of 6" pipe for my project is being dropped off to me which lessens the cost by around $50 and doesn't leave me with a leftover 8.5' piece of 6" PVC pipe adding to my clutter :)


Last edited by Herbaldew on Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 6:20 am 
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thanks for the thought herbaldew and intents.
since i am planning on hanging this under the beams on the trailex and will have some unsupported lemgth i do not feel that the field tile will be rigid enough.
the idea of changing pipe diameters to accomodate the roller furling drum made me wonder why i was not smart enough to have thought of that. have been out to one of our local water and sewer contractors and am putting together the necessary pipe and fittings. was pleasantly surprised to find that there are several differant weights of pvc pipe and that the lighter weight pipe has a smaller outside diameter. hoping that it will not be necessary to flatten out a portion of the pipe to fit. will do some preliminary fitting this week-end and will post result.
:)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 2:11 pm 
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Location: Delaware Coast
Here is my report on copying sEs's trailer. Fabrication comes with much difficulty and expense around these parts, so I strived to use off the shelf items.

5" PVC is not available here, so for the sail/mast carrier, I used 4" sch 40 PVC for the main section, then used a 6" to 4" reducing coupling and an 18" length of 6" PVC to accomodate the spool assembly. The 4" is a snug fit, I have to use a twisting motion to get that little hook used for securing the sail closed into the pipe. The holes in the front cap are needed not only for ventilation with the 4" pipe, but also to relieve the vacuum created when pulling the sail out. I am still thinking on the rear end cap, but am leaning on leaving it as shown in the picture because its simple, cheap and effective.

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For the stand-off at the front of the trailer, I used to stand that came with the trailer meant to hold the coupler off the ground. I used a trailer jack as sEs did, so this piece was not needed.

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For the straps to hold up the mast carrier, I used DMC HDSS-400 stainless straps which can be found on Google.

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For the tie down points, I used brass trigger snaps on my straps and they connect to 4" X 1/4" stainless eye bolts. No threading of straps to tie down with this setup.

Edit: I have quit using the rear tie down as it seems to bend the amas when I do. So far no problems at all just using straps on the middle and front cross bar. This would have saved a few dollars by needing two less trigger snaps, eye bolts/washers/nylock nuts and straps (straps came in two packs so I had one left over to start with).

Image

The 4" PVC will not fit between the frame and crossbar either. I had a heat gun at the ready and then decided not to use it after all .... so much for no fabrication.

I decided to put a "suspension lift kit" on the trailer instead. My local metal shop didn't have 3/4" bar, so I had them cut me 4 pieces of 5" X 1" X 3/8" aluminum flat bar and stacked 2 pieces together to make two 5" X 1" X 3/4" spacers. These spacers go between the main beam of the trailer and the suspension assembly - I also had to drill new holes in the mounting brackets as seen in the photo.

The bolt you can see in the spacer - one on each side: They are only in the spacer. If you look very closely at the picture of my eye bolt tie down points, you will see a nut at the top of the threads of the eye bolt in the groove of the extruded cross bar. The head of the bolt in the spacers just sits in the grove of the extruded suspension assembly just like that eye bolt nut, preventing the spacer from falling out from to back if things start to get loose. The nut on the other end of that bolt will prevent the spacer from falling out side to side if things start getting loose. Hopefully, if things do get loose, I will notice it and fix before they get so loose that the spacer falls out.

Image

Between the mast carrier and the Stoltz roller at the rear of the trailer, the tail lights where really hard to see, particulary the right light to anyone who was in the right lane while I was in the left lane. So while I was at the metal shop, I had two 3" X 4" X 1/4" plates cut and moved the lights to the ends of the rear crossbar greatly improving their visibility. If you look closely at the first picuture I posted, you can see the light and see what I mean about the roller and mast carrier hiding it when it was in its original location.

Thanks again to sEs for making this post giving me the inspiration to go this route, and especially for the time he invested taking measurements and talking with me on the telephone about his setup :)

p.s. A note to anyone who may also choose to do this .... order extra T bolts when you order your trailer .... Trailex makes them in house and they aren't available anywhere else.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2011 6:22 pm
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Location: Sassafras River, Maryland
I noticed that a couple of folks have added a rear roller to the TI trailer. I assembled my own following the instructions and have no room to add the roller. I thought about adding some sort of trailer extension since I have 6 feet of TI hanging out past the end of the trailer. Any thoughts or advice?
Thanks.
Jeff


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 1:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:53 am
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Location: Palm City, Florida
Hello Jeff,

Can you post some pictures of what the back end of your trailer looks like? With that perhaps we can help you. Also I sort of remember reading some ones post once (in Sweden maybe?) about this particular problem and how they solved it. Try doing a forum search... Good Luck.

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Ezra Appel
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2014 Tandem Island


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 1:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2011 6:50 pm
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Location: Florida Keys
What trailer do you have? There is a difference between the Trailex trailer for the AI and TI. One is the 200 model for the AI and one is the 350 model for the TI.

Big thanks to Ezra! I built my TI trailer with all the goodies! I even found 5" PVC for the mast carrier. It is easy to bend the PVC. Just push in some pink fiberglass insulation to where you need the bend and heat with a heat gun. It does get somewhat discolored but you can sand it off.

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"Honu-Pulelehua"
2012 TI Dune
"When the going gets tough, the tough drink tea." Jon Turk


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 3:57 pm 
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Location: Palm City, Florida
Hello Randy,

Thanks, glad it worked out for you.
I never knew about the
Quote:
Just push in some pink fiberglass insulation to where you need the bend and heat with a heat gun.
... very clever.

Heating up pvc produces some nasty stuff though. I hope you were wearing some kind of a mask/respirator. :wink:

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Ezra Appel
Palm City, Florida
2014 Tandem Island


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2011 6:50 pm
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Location: Florida Keys
As soon as I started heating I realized I had forgotten a mask. I already had everything disassembled and ready to go and being that the boat is not stored at my house I had to do without. I was in a breeze way and had a decent breeze and was as careful as I could be. DON"T FORGET YOUR MASK! :shock:

I read that PVC can be easily bent by filling it with sand and heating it because the sand retains the heat. Well I saw no way to do that on the 5" PVC. I was walking by a trash can at work and saw the pink insulation. I tore it away from the paper backing and stuffed about 2' worth tightly balled up into the pipe where I needed it by measuring the distance and marking it on an extendable tree trimmer. Worked better than anticipated.

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Randy
"Honu-Pulelehua"
2012 TI Dune
"When the going gets tough, the tough drink tea." Jon Turk


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 6:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2011 6:22 pm
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Location: Sassafras River, Maryland
I can't post pictures yet, but if you look at the installation/instruction PDF guide for the SUT 350 and look at page 43 and page 48 you can see pictures of the completed trailer. The brackets for the rear cross member end exactly even with the rear of the trailer main beam, leaving no room for attaching anything.

One thought is to slide EVERYTHING forward about a foot on the trailer and perhaps contacting trailex to get another short section of main beam frame and joining plates. This seems like it might be expensive though. Just wondered how others solved it.

Haven't decided what to do about carrying the mast yet. Currently have one of those heavy duty bow stops resting on some boards on the rear deck. The bow stop sits with the opening up and fits the mast fairly well and close to the deck. I strap that all down firmly. The front of the mast rests on the tube that the aka plugs into and is firmly strapped down there.

Thanks for the ideas on the 5 inch pipe. I've been thinking about that but not gotten that far yet.

Jeff


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 7:57 pm 
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Location: Delaware Coast
I just measured mine - the rear roller takes up ~5.25 inches of the main beam.

There are four SUT-350's listed under "Assembly Sheets" on the Trailex site. I am assuming the SUT-350AIT is the Tandem Island trailer and that is what you have? Here is the LINK if anyone wishes to view it.

If that is the case, it looks to me like it may be possible to just move the rear crossmember forward of the rear segment of the suspension assembly and the front crossmember forward the same distance.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:12 am 
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Location: Palm City, Florida
Jeff,

I think I understand what your problem is now, but let me do some measuring today on my trailer and I'll get back to you. Can you confirm (which) trailer you actually have. There's a difference in the SUT series for a AI or a TI. (If) your finished trailer looks like the one pictured on page 48 that Herb put a link to, than your Frame section is too far back.

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Ezra Appel
Palm City, Florida
2014 Tandem Island


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 12:36 pm 
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After looking at that trailer again today, I revise my statement :) I wouldn't move the rear crossmember forward of the rear segment of the suspension assembly, I would move everything forward. No disassembly required, just loosen and slide everything forward.

I don't think I like the way they put the suspension at the rear of the trailer. That puts way more weight on the tongue.

I no longer have my measurements on hand but they were given to me by sEs, so they are the same as whatever he provides you with. I can tell you that my suspension is in the neighborhood of 3-4 feet further forward than yours.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:57 pm 
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Location: Palm City, Florida
Jeff,

After doing some "homework" I now know that your SUT-350-AIT is not the same as my SUT-350-S. Your trailer was not available in May 2011. There are a few differences, the biggest one being that the Tongue on a SUT-350-AIT is about 4' shorter than on a SUT-350-S. My SUT-350-S is 18' 6" long.

Without seeing an actual picture of you boat on your trailer I'm not certain but I believe your TI extends further out over the end of your Tongue. This now helps me to understand your questions and the limitations you may be facing.

To begin I'd like to clarify just a few terms.
Tongue: The long "spine" or center part of your trailer.
Frame: The "rectangular box section" that the springs, axle and wheels are attached to.
Crossbars: The two 53" long sections that go diagonally across the Tongue that the Hobie Saddles are attached to.

If you want to add a stern roller like the one I showed in this post, try re-positioning just the rear Crossbar forward to the inside of your Frame. This might give you enough room on the rear of the Tongue to then install a set of rear roller brackets. You'll have to order these separately from Trailex because your trailer does not come with them. Remember to also move your forward Crossbar forward to get the same spacing as you had before. * More on this later.

You should know that moving your Frame forward will increase your Tongue Weight, (The weight pressing down on the ball hitch). Although these trailers and boats don't weigh very much, what's recommended is about 10% of the total weight of your trailer and boat combined. I've learned that having the correct Tongue Weight makes a difference so be careful.
http://www.hitchingup.com/tongue-weight.htm
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-trailertowtips.aspx

KISS: Might I suggest that you just try using it the way it is before adding a stern roller and see how you like it. You may find that the rear saddle is enough of a support system by itself for loading and launching at boat ramps. :wink:



* As a side note, several people have asked me for the following measurements so I thought this might be a good time to post these. I should have included them in my original post. They only apply to a SUT-350-S Trailer incorporating 3 saddles. All measurements were taken from the end of the Tongue and went forward to the center of each item listed below:

18 ½" to the first Crossbar.

47 ½" to the rear section of the Frame. Note: Due to the increased weight of the pvc mast carrier on my trailer and to get the approximate 10% Tongue Weight that I wanted, I re-positioned the rear section of my Frame 47 ½" to the end of the Tongue. That's 10 ½" forward from the original factory mark of 37" from the end of the Tongue.

68 3/4" to the second Crossbar.

78" to the forward section of the Frame.

124" to the third Crossbar.

The distance between my rear Crossbar and the middle Crossbar is 50 ½". The distance between the middle Crossbar and the forward Crossbar is 55 ½".

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Ezra Appel
Palm City, Florida
2014 Tandem Island


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:18 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2011 6:22 pm
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Location: Sassafras River, Maryland
Thanks for the replies. That's great information and I'm impressed how through and quick you are to respond. Yes, it's the SUT 350 AIT for the TI. One of the reasons I even brought this up is that I have about 6 feet of boat hanging off the back of the trailer. That's alot of boat hanging out there. I was thinking that the roller, if it was a few feet long, would provide additional support.

I tried searching the Maryland websites to see how much I'm allowed to have hanging over the trailer and don't see anything. It seems to me that 6 feet is really pushing it though.

sEs, your trailer is definately longer than mine. I'm travelling so I can't measure right now, but I seem to recall the the total trailer length was less than 16 feet.

One other thing I'm a bit confused on is that if I move the whole frame forward, say 1 foot, wouldn't I be REDUCING the tongue weight? I'd be moving the pivot point forward with more weight aft. Or am I missing something here?

I've only launched once and really had to put the trailer wheels pretty far under water to get the cradles near the water. Another reason to at least consider adding extra frame and roller.

If anyone's interested, I'll be happy to provide measurements on this trailer, too.

Thanks
Jeff


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