Here is my report on copying sEs's trailer. Fabrication comes with much difficulty and expense around these parts, so I strived to use off the shelf items.
5" PVC is not available here, so for the sail/mast carrier, I used 4" sch 40 PVC for the main section, then used a 6" to 4" reducing coupling and an 18" length of 6" PVC to accomodate the spool assembly. The 4" is a snug fit, I have to use a twisting motion to get that little hook used for securing the sail closed into the pipe. The holes in the front cap are needed not only for ventilation with the 4" pipe, but also to relieve the vacuum created when pulling the sail out. I am still thinking on the rear end cap, but am leaning on leaving it as shown in the picture because its simple, cheap and effective.
For the stand-off at the front of the trailer, I used to stand that came with the trailer meant to hold the coupler off the ground. I used a trailer jack as sEs did, so this piece was not needed.
For the straps to hold up the mast carrier, I used DMC HDSS-400 stainless straps which can be found on Google.
For the tie down points, I used brass trigger snaps on my straps and they connect to 4" X 1/4" stainless eye bolts. No threading of straps to tie down with this setup.
Edit: I have quit using the rear tie down as it seems to bend the amas when I do. So far no problems at all just using straps on the middle and front cross bar. This would have saved a few dollars by needing two less trigger snaps, eye bolts/washers/nylock nuts and straps (straps came in two packs so I had one left over to start with).
The 4" PVC will not fit between the frame and crossbar either. I had a heat gun at the ready and then decided not to use it after all .... so much for no fabrication.
I decided to put a "suspension lift kit" on the trailer instead. My local metal shop didn't have 3/4" bar, so I had them cut me 4 pieces of 5" X 1" X 3/8" aluminum flat bar and stacked 2 pieces together to make two 5" X 1" X 3/4" spacers. These spacers go between the main beam of the trailer and the suspension assembly - I also had to drill new holes in the mounting brackets as seen in the photo.
The bolt you can see in the spacer - one on each side: They are only in the spacer. If you look very closely at the picture of my eye bolt tie down points, you will see a nut at the top of the threads of the eye bolt in the groove of the extruded cross bar. The head of the bolt in the spacers just sits in the grove of the extruded suspension assembly just like that eye bolt nut, preventing the spacer from falling out from to back if things start to get loose. The nut on the other end of that bolt will prevent the spacer from falling out side to side if things start getting loose. Hopefully, if things do get loose, I will notice it and fix before they get so loose that the spacer falls out.
Between the mast carrier and the Stoltz roller at the rear of the trailer, the tail lights where really hard to see, particulary the right light to anyone who was in the right lane while I was in the left lane. So while I was at the metal shop, I had two 3" X 4" X 1/4" plates cut and moved the lights to the ends of the rear crossbar greatly improving their visibility. If you look closely at the first picuture I posted, you can see the light and see what I mean about the roller and mast carrier hiding it when it was in its original location.
Thanks again to sEs for making this post giving me the inspiration to go this route, and especially for the time he invested taking measurements and talking with me on the telephone about his setup
p.s. A note to anyone who may also choose to do this .... order extra T bolts when you order your trailer .... Trailex makes them in house and they aren't available anywhere else.