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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 8:53 am 
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Could someone post a pic or two of their self tacker and furler setup (H18, FX, Tiger), please?

In particular, lines to the furler and to the front crossbar, no spin pole.

Here's one:

Image

Self tacker line routing here looks to be:

1. Tied to middle of block on traveler car then up to block at jib clew (out of pic)
2. Back to sheave on traveler car block
3. Up to sheave on block on rope at furler
4. Back to cam cleat on right side of front crossbar.

Furler line (?) looks to routed to front crossbar somewhere...

With setup in pic, in order to get the jib out, the self tacker line gets pulled in/toward back of boat. Jib unfurls and the furler line spools back toward and into the furler -- which means must be careful to let the furler line stay freed to re-spool...

The FX instructions have kind of opposite approach. Has a spin pole and jib sheet unfurls.

Many blessings on your house if can help. :) That is older pic of a current boat.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 10:21 am 
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Hey Jimbo!

I recognize that picture and that boat! The set up is actually the same when using the spin pole, the difference being that the block that is attached near the furler is attached off the little eye on the spin pole. I spent time with some Tiger and FX One sailors on the set up, and there were all sorts of double-block ideas and so forth. What I found at the end of the day is that the arrangement in the photo was the simplest design and was easy to execute on the FX One.

If you look at the white furling line on the port side, I actually used a block near the front cross beam (both with or w/o the spin pole) to make it real fluid and fast to pull it back and then simply go into the jam cleat on the front cross bar. The block provided a straight shot in alignment with the angled position of the jam cleat. Conversely, unfurling meant just flicking the furling line up out of the cleat and then pulling on the self-tacking line located on the starboard side cam block, which had plenty of torque to open the jib in strong wind. Note too that this arrangement never interfered with the spin lines or anything else.

There are a lot of ways that you can set this up, I just went for the least amount of blocks and line.

Hope all is well! :D

Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:11 am 
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Ah, riddles answered!

Not the least of which was this "huh?" from the assembly manual:
Quote:
To furl the jib you will need to untie the knot on the traveler car for the jib and tie the sheet off to the jib clew block. Otherwise the jib will not furl completely.

The sling tied around the furler that holds the block is nice, also.

So is the jam cleat on the crossbeam.

Thank you, Dr. Mike! Simple to rig and efficient to use. Many blessings.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 5:08 pm 
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Jimbo,

I think the Hobie Manuals are actually part of the Mason Society, contianing hidden clues that lead you to the next clue! :roll:

I hope you had a great first year sailing her, that photo brings back some fun memories for Faith and me.

All the best,

Mike


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 5:29 am 
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I know this is an older post but does anyone happen to have a picture of this setup they could post or email me? The one in the post above is not there anymore. I just added a self tacker to my Tiger and would like to keep the furler also if its possible to rig up the self tacker without the snuffer pole attached that would be sweet.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:02 am 
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Fa1321tx wrote:
I know this is an older post but does anyone happen to have a picture of this setup they could post or email me? The one in the post above is not there anymore. I just added a self tacker to my Tiger and would like to keep the furler also if its possible to rig up the self tacker without the snuffer pole attached that would be sweet.


You can view the system on the support page - download the Tiger manual PDF. Link: http://www.hobiecat.com/support/products/sailboats/

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:29 am 
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Jbernier wrote:
You can view the system on the support page - download the Tiger manual PDF. Link: http://www.hobiecat.com/support/products/sailboats/
I have the manual but the pictures are not the best IMHO also it sounded like the post above mentioned using a self tacker system without mounting the spin pole.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:02 pm 
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I believe you are referring to my old photos, which a hard drive crash made obsolete. When I decided not to mount the spin pole in my second season because I wanted to improve mainsail and jib trim techniques, all I had to do was figure out how to accommodate the absence of the eyelet cleat on the pole that I had attached the block to for the retriever line. The solution was quite simple, I attached a small line to the furler bracket and the block to the line. It never interfered with the furling line or anything else, it worked like a charm!

Make sense?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 5:47 am 
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sounds pretty simple you didn't think it added too much additional stress to the bridle wires?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:39 am 
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Running it without a pole like described can work - but the issue is when you sheet in and as the wind pressure fluctuates you'll have to adjust sheets more than normal. Because when you pull in on the sheet it will pull back towards the mast and this changes the angle of attack. If you are just out playing around, and have not plans to race, then going this route is fine, but I think if you really look at how the system works (with the pole) you'll see that it is sheeting on a fixed point and therefore it makes trimming the jib allot easier - although the set-up time is greater.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:52 am 
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The retriever line did not have any impact under sail as the jib trim was done with the jib sheets. If you set up your rig 'loose' I expect that you could have some varying of your rake, but that would lead to other issues running a loose rig on an FX1. I set my side stays and bridle stays relatively taut so there was not a lot of play in the rig. As many have learned, when it comes to the FX1 you have to experiment, because the boat does work differently based on number of crew (i.e. 1 or 2) and crew weight (140lbs - 400lbs). Then throw in the wind and water conditions on any given day...


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:39 am 
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The next question would be where do you run the line to adjust how far the jib car can travel. They normally run this from the beam through an eye on the spin pole then tie it to the jib car. If you don't use the pole and ran it straight from under the beam it would hit the spin pole mount on every tack. How did you manage to avoid this?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:47 am 
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Fa1321tx wrote:
The next question would be where do you run the line to adjust how far the jib car can travel. They normally run this from the beam through an eye on the spin pole then tie it to the jib car. If you don't use the pole and ran it straight from under the beam it would hit the spin pole mount on every tack. How did you manage to avoid this?


Again - that isn't going to make much difference in performance - you can just tie it off on the striker post if you didn't want to rig it through a pad eye - some guys would use the old furler cleat on the back side of the beam - but you'd need to run it to a central point on the front beam (like the fitting where the pole attaches) so that it's equal from port to starboard tacks.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:01 pm 
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I though it would help to bring the jib car closer in say to the second post when sailing up wind. It always helped on my H18 & H16 to tighten the slot upwind is it not as critical on the Tiger?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:33 pm 
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Keeping the jib car on the second post is about the usual position - only go further out if it's nuking!


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