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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 2:36 pm 
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hi, looking for some input. looking to install pad eyes in various places on the outback. what is the length of the #10 stainless steel machine screw you guys are using? i'm looking to install a washer or thin back plate to the padeyes (within the hull)

#10 stainless steel machine screw -> nylon pad eye -> kayak plastic -> thin back plate or stainless washer or equivalent -> nylon lock nut

1"?
1-1/4"?
2" etc...

Thanks in advance.


Last edited by gupppy on Wed Apr 11, 2012 4:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 4:09 am 
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When you use nyl-lock nuts you want the screw to penetrate through the complete nut for the nylon part of the nut to be used.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 4:51 am 
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saltfisherman wrote:
When you use nyl-lock nuts you want the screw to penetrate through the complete nut for the nylon part of the nut to be used.


I understand that.
Whoops seem to have made a typo. "nylon lock nut"


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 1:16 pm 
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gupppy wrote:
saltfisherman wrote:
When you use nyl-lock nuts you want the screw to penetrate through the complete nut for the nylon part of the nut to be used.


I understand that.
Whoops seem to have made a typo. "nylon lock nut"



Purposely abbreviated to a shorten version, saved a whopping 2 spaces of time. Just used those 2 spaces up explaining myself.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 1:21 pm 
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saltfisherman wrote:
gupppy wrote:
saltfisherman wrote:
When you use nyl-lock nuts you want the screw to penetrate through the complete nut for the nylon part of the nut to be used.


I understand that.
Whoops seem to have made a typo. "nylon lock nut"



Purposely abbreviated to a shorten version, saved a whopping 2 spaces of time. Just used those 2 spaces up explaining myself.


miscommunication here... i understood your post perfectly. i meant i made a typo on my original post by typing nylon lock "washer" as opposed to nylon lock "nut"....


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:51 pm 
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The length I've used for my various accessories on my outback has varied. I just make sure to use long enough to get through the nut but short enough to not interfere with anything inside the hull. Be aware of what's behind the plastic before you drill. Don't hit rudder control lines or the like. I also use some silicon or marine goop on the washer to keep it water tight.

I would say the 1.25" has been the average length hardware I have used.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:05 am 
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My usual minimum length is 1" but I have modified this to accommodate a new installation technique/helpful hint for yourself and anyone else interested.

Whenever you install a pad eye or any other modification on the external side of the hull and use a backing nut like a nyl-lock nut or other variation, increase the length/step up to the next size of the bolt to permit the addition of another pad eye on the inside of the hull. This technique can also be used when you install rod mounts from RAM. Two of the holes on the RAM rod holder bases are the exact distance between the mounting holes on pad eyes.

Why would you do this you ask?

Simple, the answer is actually two-fold. First, the use of an additional pad eye acts as an additional waterproofing seal when a dab of LEXEL, GOOP or other sealant is used prior to installation of the nut.

Secondly, the pad eye acts as an attachment point for any gear you might stow on the inside of the hull and prevents gear from slipping into areas of the hull that are difficult to reach. Simply create a short lanyard using paracord or other lashing material and attach a carabiner or snap bolt that can hook into the pad eye.

Hope you find this useful.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 2:12 pm 
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Hanover_Yakker wrote:
My usual minimum length is 1" but I have modified this to accommodate a new installation technique/helpful hint for yourself and anyone else interested.

Whenever you install a pad eye or any other modification on the external side of the hull and use a backing nut like a nyl-lock nut or other variation, increase the length/step up to the next size of the bolt to permit the addition of another pad eye on the inside of the hull. This technique can also be used when you install rod mounts from RAM. Two of the holes on the RAM rod holder bases are the exact distance between the mounting holes on pad eyes.

Why would you do this you ask?

Simple, the answer is actually two-fold. First, the use of an additional pad eye acts as an additional waterproofing seal when a dab of LEXEL, GOOP or other sealant is used prior to installation of the nut.

Secondly, the pad eye acts as an attachment point for any gear you might stow on the inside of the hull and prevents gear from slipping into areas of the hull that are difficult to reach. Simply create a short lanyard using paracord or other lashing material and attach a carabiner or snap bolt that can hook into the pad eye.

Hope you find this useful.


Thanks for your input. I ordered the 1-1/4" #10 SS machine screws. I guess if it's too long, I'll make a cap for it. Hopefully not.
Good idea with double sided pad eyes, I'll try it out.

Thanks everyone!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 6:42 pm 
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gupppy wrote:
Hanover_Yakker wrote:
My usual minimum length is 1" but I have modified this to accommodate a new installation technique/helpful hint for yourself and anyone else interested.

Whenever you install a pad eye or any other modification on the external side of the hull and use a backing nut like a nyl-lock nut or other variation, increase the length/step up to the next size of the bolt to permit the addition of another pad eye on the inside of the hull. This technique can also be used when you install rod mounts from RAM. Two of the holes on the RAM rod holder bases are the exact distance between the mounting holes on pad eyes.

Why would you do this you ask?

Simple, the answer is actually two-fold. First, the use of an additional pad eye acts as an additional waterproofing seal when a dab of LEXEL, GOOP or other sealant is used prior to installation of the nut.

Secondly, the pad eye acts as an attachment point for any gear you might stow on the inside of the hull and prevents gear from slipping into areas of the hull that are difficult to reach. Simply create a short lanyard using paracord or other lashing material and attach a carabiner or snap bolt that can hook into the pad eye.

Hope you find this useful.


Thanks for your input. I ordered the 1-1/4" #10 SS machine screws. I guess if it's too long, I'll make a cap for it. Hopefully not.
Good idea with double sided pad eyes, I'll try it out.

Thanks everyone!


You can get an acorn nut for the screw end too. It will give you a smooth finish and gets rid of the sharp edge.
Tom


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:59 pm 
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In case others are in the same boat, the 1.25" padeyes are waaay too long. I'm thinking 3/4" would be ideal.


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