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 Post subject: Hobie 18 Restore Project
PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 8:47 am 
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Hey-

I'm recently a new owner of a 1980 H18 (CCMH1348M80K) and hoping to get some clarification on things I've read in other posts. I've spent the past couple of weeks digging through the forums and keep coming with new projects.
1. Being a 1980 model, do I need to be concerned with the forward and rear crossbar patch kits, or am I hopefully correct in thinking that it's unnecessary because this model was before the change to lighter construction?
2. What is the rudder material? It feels quite a bit heavier than the larger daggerboards.
3. What is the inboard support casting kit 61010001 and is it needed on older model hobies?
4. I intent on replacing the shroud anchor pins and standing rigging as recommended. If there is no visible damage, do I need to be concerned about the diamond wire and forestay/what is the recommended replacement interval for these?
Thanks in advance for any help/advice?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:07 am 
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Also, are there anchor plate reinforcements for the front and rear crossbars? Looking at the pics from poolemarkw's restore project posts viewtopic.php?f=13&t=41616&start=0
it looks like there are, but I haven't come across them on any of the parts diagrams.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:47 am 
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Congratualtions on your purchase, the Hobie 18 is an excellent beach cat. My understanding is - and others can chime in - that for pre-1984 boats without wings, you do not need the crossbar reinforcement fittings. Poolemarkw's boat has them because he has wings. My wing-less '82 boat does not have them. You should already have reinforcement plates at your shroud connections (they're the stirrup-looking things you see in poolemarkw's picture). Your rudders are likely either lexan plastic (came in white and black) or EPOs. The plastic ones are much heavier and you can easily bend them over your knee. The EPOs provide significantly better performance. Good luck!


Last edited by BrianCT on Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:53 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 1:58 pm
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Location: SE Michigan / NE Indiana
My 2 pennies:

1) Anchor Plates: <might> not be necessary if you are sailing on an inland lake (small waves) and presumably without wings. Regardless, it's not that expensive and good insurance for the longevity of the hulls.
2) Rudders: Older rudder is probably something similar to Nylon. They're OK (not great) for recreational sailing. You'll want to upgrade to the EPO's if you plan to race.
3) Crossbar anchor kit: This is a normal part of any H18. Not usually a failure point that I know of - original ones are probably fine. I had to replace the bolts and custom nuts when I removed my beam as the threads had galled.
4) Diamonds and forestay: To be safe, they should probably be replaced too. However, that being said, I believe mine are original and I have not replaced them yet as it is sailed on fresh water exclusively, and only very occasionally in big water. I check things over carefully before each sail as I know I'm on borrowed time - I'm sure someone will scold me for this. A failed diamond in big wind could easily destroy the mast. A failed forestay could leave you stranded.
5) Rear cross-bar anchor plates are usually only needed if you have wings. As in 1 above, it might not be a bad idea to at least the front bars and shrouds - really depends on your sailing environment.

The downhaul upgrade is probably another one for the short-list. If you plan on trailer-sailing (lots of set-up/tear-down), you might consider upgrading the tiller connectors to the Miracle-20 style.

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Jeff R
'88 H18 Jolly Mon
'10 F18 Closely Called
Sail Michigan's Great Lakes in 2014
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 3:31 pm 
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Location: San Diego
I think its always a good idea to install anchor plates on the FWD crossbar, inboard and outboard on any boat.

Its an easy install so there is no reason not to. You will feel more comfortable with the whole family on the boat when the wind pick up. Even the 2000's 18's had them, and they are solid hulls.

You don't need this unless you broke the old ones. These are parts inside the crossbar that allow the inboard side of the hulls to attach to the crossbar. There like castings with a nut built into them so the bolt can attach to the crossbar.
inboard support casting kit 61010001

I think the diamond wires last a long long time. I have never changed mine and don't plan to.

I love love love my 18, I think its the best boat. I can rig mine by myself in less than 30 mins. :P :P

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ALLEY CAT 1984 RED LINE HOBIE 18 MAGNUM
Sail # 10505 or 277
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 3:04 pm 
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Location: Buffalo, NY
Quote:
I think its always a good idea to install anchor plates on the FWD crossbar, inboard and outboard on any boat.


Quick question jmecky, I understood the anchor plate kit (64100001) to be a "shroud anchor plate kit." Is there another anchor plate kit? Or can this anchor plate kit also be used to reinforce the joint with the forward crossbar? Also, I've noticed that the anchor plate kit in the parts guide is different from the one installed on my '79 Hobie 18. Is this something that needs to be upgraded on an older 18?

kdmarcus, a few more upgrades I've been told to look into (I bought my boat a few months after you did) that might benefit you as well:

- The old style mast step assembly may fatigue your fwd crossbar and cause it to break in two. To upgrade, you need to replace the whole mast step assembly, because the dolphin striker was re-designed.
- The old mast rotation arm is easily bent out of shape. The new style is more durable.
- The pop-in hull inspection ports had a tendency to leak, especially as the o-rings got old and cracked and/or the covers wore out in the UV rays.

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Mike
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'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 4:29 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
The crossbar annchor kit is the same part as the shroud anchor kit, just make sure you get four of the plates in order to do the front crossbar. The early shroud anchor plates were slightly different from the current design, you may want to consider upgrading to the new plates. The holes are spaced farther apart with the new plates, so the load is distributed to the hull a little better.

sm


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:49 pm 
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Congrats on your purchase! I want to add an extra affirmation to the extra shroud plates. I have a few 18s and racing around California have seen a few other owners that all have the new style shroud brackets installed. Unless you see cracks in your hull, you can sail it as is... but should work at gettting everything dialed in.


You should also get the leak test performed. Shop vac blower blowing into the drain plug hole or the hatch with some soapy water, check bow tangs, daggerboard pockets Rudder mounts... there are at least a couple more detailed versions on this forum somewhere.

Also, if you get new shrouds and have the older style 6 hole(??) shroud adjusters... you may find that your shrouds are too short. If you have the 10 hole shroud adjusters, you have nothing to worry about.

Just got back from sailing my '80 with my 'ol man. The 18 is a very versatile and forgiving boat. Have fun!

Tom

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Tom
Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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