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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 12:59 pm 
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Location: Wilmington, NC
Just bought an anchor pin (Stick It Anchor Pins) for my PA. Have read in forums where some folks run their stake out pole through the ring on the anchor trolley. I have a concern that if you needed to remove the anchor pin fast because of a high wave or maybe even chasing a hooked fish, this would make it difficult to do in a hurry. I was hoping someone had a similar thought & how they rig up.

I have 6 feet of rope connecting the 5'5" anchor pin to the wire loop in the anchor trolley. I was thinking to add a float to that line outside of the anchor trolley loop & then run the line through the loop & attach with a Harken cleat or something similar. Then I can jettison the whole works in a hurry, then go pick it up later.

Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:35 am 
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Not sure where or what type of waters you are fishing but if there were ever a need to disconnect from the anchor in that much of a hurry than I would not anchor at all.
But if you did have to than I think adding a float would work so you could return to pick it up or hold that position again.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 11:05 am 
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Thanks for feedback, Mr G....I fish in Cape Fear River & intracoastal waters in NC. The ocean going tankers/freighters going to/from Wilmington create large swells that move water 4 or 5 feet higher/lower. I fish in the flats & near marsh grasses. You can see the ships coming in advance but have been caught by surprise since sometimes the swells take 5 minutes to reach you after the ship has passed & my attention got focussed on something else.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:26 pm 
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Location: Virginia - Pro Angler 14 owner since Feb 2010
Patriot wrote:
Just bought an anchor pin (Stick It Anchor Pins) for my PA. Have read in forums where some folks run their stake out pole through the ring on the anchor trolley. I have a concern that if you needed to remove the anchor pin fast because of a high wave or maybe even chasing a hooked fish, this would make it difficult to do in a hurry. I was hoping someone had a similar thought & how they rig up.

I have 6 feet of rope connecting the 5'5" anchor pin to the wire loop in the anchor trolley. I was thinking to add a float to that line outside of the anchor trolley loop & then run the line through the loop & attach with a Harken cleat or something similar. Then I can jettison the whole works in a hurry, then go pick it up later.

Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.


I did this very thing with my anchor setup. I installed a Harken cleat with an added fairlead on the sideboard of my PA. This way I can position the anchor trolley clip anwhere along the PA and still be confident that the cleat will hold properly. I deploy the anchor with the ancor line through a small float, then I tie a loop in the line above the float to keep it from floating up the line, then the line goes through the trolley clip, and finally through the cleat. I tried it this week and it worked like a charm -- I could quickly pop the line and it would run out of the cleat. I wasn't in difficult water, but I figure it's a good habit to consistently use the quick release mechanism. I never know when I'll need it.

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:32 am 
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Thanks TDK for the feedback. I think I will go ahead & rig my anchor pin this way & give it a try.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 11:17 am 
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Patriot wrote:
Thanks TDK for the feedback. I think I will go ahead & rig my anchor pin this way & give it a try.


Sure thing. I think you'll like the way it works. BTW, it's hard to see the cleat in that picture, but it's a Harken 358 with the added fairlead. Works perfectly for this application.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 12:52 pm 
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Location: North Carolina
TDK,

I'm trying to figure out how to attach a cleat on my new PA as well. I was thinking of attaching a fair-lead to the outside edge of the sideboard mounted parallel to the gunwale and mounting a regular cleat on the inside edge of the board. The anchor line would make a 90 degree turn through the fair-lead whether the anchor trolley O-ring was at the bow or the stern. Your thoughts on that setup?

Also, when your anchor trolley O-ring is at the bow, does your anchor line ride up on the sideboard enough to get in the way of anything else mounted there?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:38 pm 
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I have the plastic ring on my anchor trolley. I keep a 2" carabiner clip on it at all times. I clip the anchor line though it when anchoring. I also have the 8' StickIt stick pin anchor pole. I use either the 6' or the 2' line that comes with the StickIt and clip the end loop to the carabiner. When not in use I just loop the line around the 'T' handle.

If you do not have it, get the float for your anchor pin (or cut a 16" section of pool noodle with a small diameter center hole). Take the line off the float and slide the float up the shaft of the pin to the 'T' handle. The Float fits on snug so it does not slide off. I like this better than having a hanging float to snag on something. The pin & float fit nicely into the factory paddle holders and held by the factory bungee.

Revo

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:16 pm 
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Location: Virginia - Pro Angler 14 owner since Feb 2010
YakerJack wrote:
TDK,

I'm trying to figure out how to attach a cleat on my new PA as well. I was thinking of attaching a fair-lead to the outside edge of the sideboard mounted parallel to the gunwale and mounting a regular cleat on the inside edge of the board. The anchor line would make a 90 degree turn through the fair-lead whether the anchor trolley O-ring was at the bow or the stern. Your thoughts on that setup?

Also, when your anchor trolley O-ring is at the bow, does your anchor line ride up on the sideboard enough to get in the way of anything else mounted there?


That's exactly what I was after with my setup. The fairlead allows the anchor trolley clip to be positioned anywhere along the side of the PA and still have the line pass straight through the cleat. It sounds like what you describe will work, but I don't think I would put the fairlead and cleat so far apart. It's not really necessary and, as I see it, just leaves a length of taught line across your sideboard that is begging to get snagged by a hook or something else. I really like the Harken 358 with the fairlead that is made to attach right on top of the cleat ( here's a link, but you can type Harken 358 in Google and you'll find lots of options -- http://www.mariner-sails.com/partdetail.asp?id=28384). It's compact and easy to install. I set my cleat back from the edge of the sideboard so I could drill through the board and attach it using SS bolts with washers and vinyl insert locking nuts on the bottom of the board. This is instead of just using a self tapping screw and putting the cleat out closer to the edge of the sideboard. I'm sure a self tappng SS screw would would work just fine, but I like the security of a nut and washer -- I'm just weird that way. I think the anchor line did come up on top of the rail some when I had the trolley clip all the way to the bow or stern, but it didn't get in the way at all.

One other thing I did learn is that I need to figure a good way to manage or minimize the amount of anchor line I use to prevent having to carefully bundle the extra line and put it in the side tray on the floor of the PA. In the event I do have to release the line in an emergency, it needs to run out freely through the cleat and not bunch up in a knotted mess. Of course, this would prevent the line from running out the cleat, thereby defeating the entire purpose of the quick release. So, I think I may try having a few different lengths of anchor line available to use depending on the depth of water in which I'm anchoring. I haven't figured what the lengths should be, but maybe I'll have 10, 15, and 20 foot anchor lines that I can switch based on need. Maybe this is a terrible idea. I don't know. I'm happy to have suggestions. Murphy's law applies fully in my PA -- if it can get tangled, it will get tangled.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 2:05 pm 
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TDK,

Thanks for the reply. I'll look into the Harken cleat. What do you think about one that looks like this with a swivel base? Overkill?

Image

I had the same thoughts about too much anchor rode in the cockpit, so I copied this setup from Palmetto Kayak Fishing dot com. Might be something you would be interested in. It minimizes the amount of line in the cockpit.

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot.co ... ystem.html

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:58 am 
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Location: Marco Island, Florida
A simple zig zag cleat has worked great for me

http://www.austinkayak.com/mobile/catal ... hp?ID=1183


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:29 am 
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Location: Virginia - Pro Angler 14 owner since Feb 2010
YakerJack wrote:
TDK,

Thanks for the reply. I'll look into the Harken cleat. What do you think about one that looks like this with a swivel base? Overkill?

Image

I had the same thoughts about too much anchor rode in the cockpit, so I copied this setup from Palmetto Kayak Fishing dot com. Might be something you would be interested in. It minimizes the amount of line in the cockpit.

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot.co ... ystem.html


I think that cleat is probably more than you need. As you probably know, the Harken cleats are pricey. I suspect that one costs almost as much as the boat!

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Last edited by TDK on Fri May 04, 2012 7:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 12:32 pm 
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I have yet to get my PA out to do this seasons rigging and upgrades. An anchor trolley is on my list of things to do. I am planning to use a stainless steel quick release shacle in place of a ring, and a float with a carbiner clip for my main anchor line. My plans are to set my anchor and tie a loop in the anchor line attach a float and then coil the remaining line and attach the quick release clip to the loop. The reasoning is that I will be able to pull the release in an emergency.
Image
I am open to suggestions and advice if anyone has a better way to do it before I screw it up :wink:


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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 8:00 pm 
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ecduzitgood wrote:
I have yet to get my PA out to do this seasons rigging and upgrades. An anchor trolley is on my list of things to do. I am planning to use a stainless steel quick release shacle in place of a ring, and a float with a carbiner clip for my main anchor line. My plans are to set my anchor and tie a loop in the anchor line attach a float and then coil the remaining line and attach the quick release clip to the loop. The reasoning is that I will be able to pull the release in an emergency.
Image
I am open to suggestions and advice if anyone has a better way to do it before I screw it up :wink:


I may not understand your setup completely, but I would worry about the ability to reach the quick release pin when it is positioned fully to the bow or stern. With the cleat setup I just put on my PA, the line is always right where I can reach it. I just give it a tug and it will pop out of the cleat and run out through the anchor clip (ring) on the trolley.

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Last edited by TDK on Mon May 07, 2012 11:01 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 6:32 am 
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I am going to attach a line to the release pin, give line a pull and the shackle opens to release the anchor. I do like the cam cleats also so I don't want to suggest it's a better setup just another option that is easy to release. This was how we used to release the anchor while chumming for giant bluefin tuna.
It's a no fail release even if in a panic, you pull the line and the anchor is released without any possibility of the anchor line snagging because it is all overboard. The cam cleat on occasion can re-grip the anchor line or the line may become tangled even when released due to the excess anchor line still being on-board. I am also thinking of making one for the front and one for the rear and eliminating the trolley altogether, I am still working on the idea. This is my first yak so it is all new to me but the anchor release is something I have done before in larger vessels so I am thinking it should work.


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